Viktor&Rolf SS2014 Ready-to-Wear collection is a rebellious take on classical school uniforms. The house presents the collection as a parade of deconstructed uniforms composed of the archetypal elements: tailored navy blazers and jackets, crisp cotton white shirts, pleated skirts, regimental badges and iconic prints of argyles and plaids.
The mood is young, playful yet slightly subversive, emphasizing the designers affinity for authenticity and individuality. The key silhouette of the collection is narrow at the top, skimming the body without clinging, and flared at the bottom: hemlines just cover the knee.
Fabrics are compact to create a graphic silhouette. Pleated skirts are playfully distorted. Embroidery is used throughout the collection to create interesting contrasts: innocent broderie anglaise is delicate yet toughened up with studs. Traditional argyles are luxurious beaded embroidery on structured daywear coating. Formal tailoring is embellished with safety pins and studs in graphic plaid motifs.
The key garment of the season are elegant bermuda shorts. The collection's colour palette draws from the classic school uniform: white, ivory, black, various shades of grey and blue (navy, dark, bright).
Flat and medium-heeled rubber-soled mules in black and black/white, as well as masculine loafers complement the schooluniform mood of the collection. The house also introduces a new handbag range in the large book-bag silhouette, the clutch embellished with safety-pin closures and the envelope bag in brushed leather.
Viktor&Rolf bijoux accents the final styling of the collection introducing the safety-pin inspired ear cuff and the buckle-belt bracelet. The set design is by Studio Job and the soundtrack by Joan as Policewoman.