Roberto Cavalli SS2017 Collection
Louche, decadent and sexy; the powerful, yet somehow fragile allure of mythical figures of the 70s rock scene, such as Mick Jagger, Keith Richards, or even Rod Stewart.
Steps once again into the limelight in the unashamed richness of the sumptuous, colourful, flamboyant wardrobe that Peter Dundas has designed for SS2017, further chiseling out the casual dandy aesthetics of a decadent traveler.
Unfolded in a palette that marries shades of blue, spicy earth tones, and pastels, washed and distressed jacquards, silks and cottons make a lavish mix of textures, building a casual vibe of ease and nonchalance.
Leather, a pivotal element of the Cavalli style, lays homage to Native Americans for the tailoring and leather outerwear, where suede fringing is combined with delicately beaded Navajo motifs and opulent embellishments.
The embroidery heritage of the brand surfaces all along, notably in the exquisite fusion of sartorial and playful of the luxurious evening jackets; or in the oriental echoes of densely embroidered kimono robes that replace the pyjamas, bringing onstage the intimate world of loungewear.
The Moroccan influences of a luxurious kaftan in hand painted jacquard stripes add more memories and atmospheres, while mixed patterns and prints take the blouse-shirts in leopard spots and florals, granting a touch of feminine sensibility.
The exploration of denim treatments, another landmark of the Cavalli universe, results in jackets and jeans that are heavily patch-worked, washed or tie-dyed.
Masterly executed, patchworks and embroideries of floral patterns underpin a romantic sensibility, conquering even the impressive couture clogs and raised platform boots.
With the turquoise and coral sautoir necklaces, and the patterned skinny scarves, rather than serving as mere accessories they enhance the aura of glamorous, unconventional sexiness pervading this season's iconic wardrobe.
Ermenegildo Zegna unveils an exclusive capsule collection of trans-seasonal, lightweight pieces that can be worn as effortlessly as a second skin. The complete and coordinated selection of clothing and outerwear has been designed to meet the needs of contemporary men all over the world, with a particular emphasis on travel-ready looks. The Second Skin Capsule Collection also represents the first commercially available wardrobe from the Ermenegildo Zegna Winter 2017 collection under the artistic direction of Alessandro Sartori. The special capsule collection has been designed for a new generation of contemporary travelers who are successful, self-confident and value a style conscious approach to comfort. Two of its pillars are innovative, lightweight outerwear blousons: the first in wool and silk with a unique knitted varsity collar and cuffs, the second in extremely light, soft nubuck leather with elastic leather cuffs and bottom. To complete the look, different color combinations of jackets, polos, knitwear, shirts, trousers and denim – all characterized by a sophisticatedly relaxed form, authentic quality and distinctively precious details – seamlessly work together and can be kept in a man’s closet for 365 days a year. The smart and casual approach to contemporary fashion pays tribute to iconic Zegna colors with a rich palette ranging from vicuna colour and off-white to teal, brown, navy and light grey. In addition, the highly versatile travel wardrobe includes an elegant Asola Moccasin featuring a new designed band with the cut of the buttonhole.
Miu Miu SS2017 collection presents a light, fresh and very feminine collection that conveys the summer, the sea and the beach with Miu Miu’s typical wit.
Inspired by the Italian summers of the 50s to the 70s, the collection offers smocked cotton mini dresses and bikinis, tricotine skirts, jackets and coats that open to unveil shorts or swimwear.
The clothes are made of printed poplin and sablé, and cloqué fabric with faint nuances. The show was full of surprises: beach towels became skirts and stoles, inlay fur and bathrobes transformed into coats where three-dimensional embroidery embellished the oilskin jackets and overcoats.
The glamorous nature of the collection is completed and accentuated by multicoloured swimming caps – with flower and embroidery appliqués, worn as hats for both day and night looks.
In terms of shoes, the typical beach slides were there in force – made of plastic or patent leather with flower and flake appliqués but there were also two-tone clogs with simple lines, rubber or transparent Plexiglas wedges and high-heeled sandals with decorative appliqué.
The two-tone ballet flats with contrasting white rubber soles were not to be missed. In terms of bags, clutches are essential – made of the iconic nappa leather with matelassé motif, Plexiglas material or printed canvas with crystal appliqué as are the totes, which come in various printed fabrics, matelassé and leather.
As always, the show was set in the Salle Hypostyle in the Palais d’Iena – an emblematic Parisian building, designed by great architect Auguste Perret and reinvented by Rem Koolhaas’ AMO to create an artificial summer landscape.
An interweaving pattern made of matte and shiny PVC motifs covered the floor and catwalk, in places continuing up to the tribunes and walls. A series of graphic illustrations recreated naive and colourful landscapes, reminiscent of summer settings.