STUART VEVERS 和 COACH的十年篇章

STUART VEVERS 和 COACH的十年篇章

人生有多少个十年？十年 - 虽短或长。Coach于纽约公共图书馆隆重发布 2024 春夏季高级服饰系列时装骚乃执行创意总监Stuart Vevers与品牌共写的黄金十年篇章，同时间，亦开启了品牌及重新定义当代复古风格的路向里程。

作为2023秋季系列的延续，本季将传统面料进行更年轻的剪裁，诠绎出年轻一代反主流的态度和对独一无二的复古单品的青睐。Coach 经典设计和标志元素，鼓励人们勇于探索和表达自我的美好愿景。皮革、流苏麂皮夹克和西装外套，以及再生棉和丹宁为主打元素，经由手工压制定义不同的质感和色彩。此种制作工艺不仅精妙呈现出复古及永不过时的美感，同时在一贯强调完美的理念中寻求突破。

是次系列设计继续拓展 COACH (RE)LOVED 项目，通过探索、设计和认知可持续发展工艺，致力于在创作过程中尽可能提升原材炓的使用率。设计团队从档案馆中选择皮革制品和丹宁布料进行再创作，并以过往单品中的蕾丝和布料作为原材料制作成连衣裙。本季系列更首次推出透视原型剪裁连衣裙和手工缝制的做旧针织裙。与此同时，品牌一如既往选取可循环再生物料，选用提取金盏花、黑胡桃木、原木、靛蓝染料等植物染料帮连衣裙上色。

此外，品牌标志性设计重新以运动风演绎，推出一系列印上东区经典牛排馆Donohue's 图案学院风T-shirt和运动服，颇为玩味。

皮具和鞋履也与该系列传统单品形成玩味且极具表现力的碰撞，推出彩色漆面运动鞋和果冻平底鞋，更有全新绗缝 COACH SHAPES系列和经典TABBY系列手袋。同时，VEVERS 还对保龄球手袋和超大 TOTE 在内的日常皮革手袋款式作出全新探索。

Vevers为今季的系列致敬了年轻一代生生不息的活力和对时尚的从容态度，并希望在展现个人风格的同时，能捕捉到他对纽约时尚的定义和理解。无论于过去还是现在，是这些建构起了他对这座城市的想像和记忆。灵感正来源于此，通过品牌历久弥新的时尚语言和核心设计和品质，鼓舞人们勇敢展现真我。

秀场选址纽约公共图书馆的CELESTE BARTOS FORUM举行，为了创造更沉浸式的秀场气氛，COACH以经典配色为背景，将品牌年轻个性化的单品安置于场地中，让嘉宾近距离感受品牌的活力与调性。此外，时装骚以街头化模式去呈现年轻一代多元、包容的时尚精神。

十周年的光景和品牌的共同进退，VEVERS为品牌经典设计作出美妙重塑，让我们了解时尚是任何人都可以勇敢地表达真我。如同纽约公共图书馆承载着的那些故事，回顾过去十年，携手迎接新篇章。

A CHILL SUMMER 冩意夏日

A CHILL SUMMER 

冩意夏日

春意盎然，绿草如茵，细语伴着鸟啼，突发奇想，在醺醺然的草地上野餐。和风轻拂，满目的芝兰随风摇曳，起伏的大地恰似在吐纳呼吸，温煦的阳光迎头洒下，温柔地吻遍肌肤，唤醒沉睡的感官，爱马仕2024年春夏《Garde républicaine》女装系列向你宣示田园诗意。

 

衣服和光影、曲线和色彩仿佛与你愉快地对话，激发你的创意奇想，以大胆的穿搭，挑战既定的规范和风格。被薄裳轻拥的你，在这温馨的一刻倏然自省，自觉如轻纱般飘逸、自由。衣裳把身躯细加保护，却没有窒碍动态，它们恍若第二层肌肤，在你悠然漫步、回旋起舞，以至徜徉于白日梦境之时，将一举一动细细描画，心底豁然开朗，踏实的感觉充盈胸臆。

风起了，促使你的心情更觉轻快，窸窣的裙摆随风摇曳，呼应著嫩叶的低鸣。衣料勾勒出肩膀的线条，把腰肢盈盈一握，让优美的身段显而不露，犹如邀请日光停伫在裸露的肩膀上，让光影在肩胛上起舞。轻柔的衣裳，追逐着你的情感、个性和欲望与各种元素碰撞出对比的火花，让你感到惬意，为A Chill Summer 写意夏日赋予另一重定义。

 

万物互呼应：色彩，感观，情绪以及剪影的起伏，纹理交织，如涟漪漾于衣身，唤起和谐并散发更显著的能量。Giorgio Armani 2024春夏女装系列命名为《VIBES》的审美美学，拉阔主色调、线条流动，谱上和触及古铜色与银色，点亮绮靡绿色与紫色，流转至弥漫于夜幕的皎白色；摇曳生姿，流畅亦精致，盎然和谐，自然流露低调奢华的美感。

Giorgio Armani 的设计本质始终如一，却如穿透棱镜般折射无穷变幻。 垂感夹克、俐落大衣、柔和裤装的轮廓迎合身姿与体态。同时， 低跟鞋履释放自在步调，宽大手袋融入独特节奏，焕然一新的造型，却依然故我。一如《孔雀东南飞》，婀娜多姿的轻盈美态，淡淡展示个中的优、和、美。

ZEGNA一向都孜孜不倦专研和追求在时装方面的设计、制作和对高端物料的要求和变化，以更新颖的设计成品创造新的视角。《L'OASI DI LINO》是一种精神状态、一种轻松的生活和行为，而Oasi Zegna 正是这一切的绿洲发源，它也代表着对卓越和美丽的追求和不断发展的心态以及负责任的态度承诺。

 

2024春夏时装秀上以192 包从诺曼底运来的生亚麻布占据了米兰的一个广场，以历史建筑为背景，制造出城市的一片绿洲。那里种植亚麻，其蓝色花朵在初夏时刻只绽放短暂的时间，演出结束后将重新进入生产链，在意大利制作成 Oasi Lino。在艺术总监Alessandro Sartori 的心目中，亚麻是灵活的质感能完美地补充他所追求的服装重置，编写了一种流动和适合的新范式；进一步深入探讨创建元素系统的想法，在大都市背景下的自然之梦，以及循环它所传达的价值更具升温。线条看似简单却隐藏了建筑中功能性的元素，使质感脱颖而出。绘制起伏的条纹纹理图案和提花。 纹理针织品增加了面料的质感，进一步凸显轻松感和柔软度。整体的流动性让一切看起来低调奢华，透过细节的张力，丰富的色彩，柔和的精确感奠定了该系列的精髓工艺。

 

PRADA SS2024 DAYS OF PRADA Women & Men's Advertising Campaign

Prada SS2024 Women & Men's Advertising Campaign entitled <Days of Prada> signals a reassertion of timeless priorities. Fashion is about clothes, within life, encapsulated in the living procession of the fashion show. Here, the narrative of that typically transient moment is amplified, extended for an entire season.

This campaign utilizes Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’ September runway presentation as a catalyst for an exploration of the ecosystem of the fashion show, its complex plurality simultaneously expressive of individuality and community, the momentary and the eternal. The medium becomes the message – part of a constant search for answers to fundamental questions, around the role of fashion in our everyday lives.

A sequence of honest and pure portraits by Willy Vanderperre, poised between spontaneous intimacy and elegant formalism, encapsulates the personae of each model of the show, 40 in total. Comprising both known and new faces, every woman is championed, afforded space and agency in singular portraits – a focus placed on her, and her clothes, addressing ever-transforming notions of femininity.

Amplifying a dichotomy between the notion of the singular and the collective, these portraits are at once individual and part of a larger body of work. They reflect both the procession of the fashion show itself, and a wider dialogue with fashion as both badge of belonging and marker of personality. Prada reminds us that the profession of fashion is a collective one.

Equally, cinema is both a collective endeavor and an individual exercise, actors prized for their innate and unique abilities. Continuing a lineage of Hollywood actors embodying the Prada man, three internationally acclaimed actors and creatives are showcased: Harris Dickinson, Kelvin Harrison Jr. and Troye Sivan. Here, their personal characters are celebrated – the roles they play are themselves. Protagonists of their own narratives, they are here framed alongside one other.

Hermès 2024 Home Collection

Hermès’ 2024 home collections invites you to step out of time while keeping your feet on the ground and to create a dialogue between roots and movement, between materials and know-how.

During the recent Milan Design Week 2024, Hermès presented its new collections in tandem with pieces from its heritage. This pairing plays on temporal ambiguity, demonstrating that Hermès objects are unaffected by time and passing trends.

Following a route on the theme of the ground, evoking our relationship with the world around us, the eye is drawn to a composition of raw materials – brick, stone, slate, wood and compacted earth depicting a jockey’s silk jersey.  A powerful symbol of the house’s cultural heritage, the jockey silk with colourful geometric motifs is an inspiration for leather goods and textiles. Buckets, baskets and table centre pieces in leather are given form by highly skilled saddler-leatherworkers.

Virtuoso craftsmanship is also apparent on blankets in subtle, graduated shades and on large cashmere bedspreads in new sizes, enhanced with graphic lines which are woven, dyed, tailored or quilted and embroidered.

 

The shape of the new Diapason d’Hermès lounge chair in leather and hammered aluminium is radical and elegant. Ethereal lamps inspired by the codes of equestrian vaulting and the delicate strokes of the Tressages équestres dinner service are the embodiment of lightness and refinement. All of which confirms Hermès’ original spirit of combining excellence with craftsmanship.

摩登玩味 PLAYFUL MODERNITY

摩登玩味

PLAYFUL MODERNITY

充满色彩和活力的 EMPORIO ARMANI SUSTAINABILITY VALUES 2024春夏别註系列要你自然悄然步入沥青丛林，为你打造百搭和易于陪衬的的衣橱。彩虹的色调洋溢著热带风情，同时要你型格地穿搭以花朵和动物图案，融入微妙的北国风光，邂逅具有生态美学的自然色系和大地色系；辅以蓝色与明快番石榴、蝴蝶和红鹳色调，踏入都市狩猎之旅与自然奇境，让你焕然一“身”，穿搭不再一成不变。

此系列采用有机或可回收材料打造，符合品牌可持续发展战略理念以及对材料和工艺的可持续性加以规范的协定。女装系列的宽松工装长裤、水洗牛仔裤、衬衫、超大号飞行员外套及衬衫式外套，轻柔围裹身体；亦有令人耳目一新的透明设计和轻撩感官的小巧单品，如露脐装、短裤 、连身裤和短款半裙，极致展现线条。

美洲虎图案延展于服装和配饰，凸显野性之美。装饰衬衫、运动衫和短裤上的动物印花，以及印于“Welcome to the jungle”字样亦轻松俘获视线。男装系列有军装外套、大口袋无袖外套、百慕达短裤和宽松长裤，而水洗牛仔裤为本季亮点之作。运动鞋、凉鞋、头巾和都市狩猎帽则点亮整体造型。

由 FAUSTO PUGLISI 率领的 ROBERTO CAVALLI 没有让刚刚已故的 ROBERTO CAVALLI 先生及其同名品牌失望，为 2024 年春夏设计的女装《PARADISE》天堂系列带你游历蔚蓝的SAINT-TROPEZ 海岸，在日落时分向世界高呼“JE M'EN FOUS”- 我不在乎，自由自在，无拘无束地去自我放纵，乐在其中。

系列设计夺目耀眼，尽显ROBERTO CAVALLI 野性贪玩的奢华风格。精美的雪纺长袍充满了羽毛风格的设计，无论是不对称缝边的火焰剪裁还是CAVALLI 的全新羽毛印花，由淡紫色的小闪光或红色、粉色、白色和石灰色调的手绘羽毛，纯熟的工艺，令人赞叹。

激光切割的细小羽毛，轻盈的感觉和诗意的图形，摇摆著身躯，翩翩起舞，风情万种。狂野而又精致，在幻想的翅膀上绽放永恒优雅的无限魅力。

 

融合前人的传奇与 KIM JONES 自身的经历，创造他在 DIOR 的五周年系列及DIOR HOMME 2024春夏男装时装展。系列设计一如既往以品牌的核心为出发点，运用最高级的布料、巧妙的线条设计、独特的外形、和超凡工艺为此系列赢得业界赞美和认同的口碑。灵感源于女士服装承传的时装文化，应用于男装系列，并首次结集众多设计团体们想致敬的 DIOR 前人和朝代的成果。从YVES SAINT LAURENT 时代的款式到 GIANFRANCO FERRÉ 的刺绣，以至 DIOR 先生的圆形宝石到MARC BOHAN 的质感，结合前人成果与流行经典元素，塑造「HOMMES FLEURS」（男士花朵），同时呈现传统和叛逆：从柔美到阳刚、沙龙到街头、NEW LOOK 到新浪潮，特别是CANNAGE藤格纹图案，它们以质感、精湛工艺与 DIOR 的流行经典元素贯穿，成为更现代化的结晶。

YVES SAINT LAURENT 的剪裁再一次融入男装世界，特别是来自他于 1959 年创作的系列特色：份量感、开衩、皱褶和领口设计。这些特色无声地融入休闲男士西装、夏季经典服装与防尘大褛。YVES SAINT LAURENT 的款式外形是是次夏季系列的重要灵感来源，经重新设计和演绎，成为本季的主要造型。传统男装结合男性的阳刚与女性的柔美，英国的剪裁传统和物料与高级时装 TAILEUR套装碰撞出新火花，在男士服装中流露女士服装的布艺传统，呈现出清新、玩味时尚、实用而悠闲的感觉。传统与流行元素的相遇，令每款作品皆展现出糅合正式与休闲的质感，兼具奢华与实用。HARRINGTON 束腰外套、POLO 恤、圆领及开襟衫等简约的基本男装款式，透过 DIOR 的经典工艺和元素：斜纹软呢、刺绣和 CANNAGE 藤格纹图案，将平凡化作不平凡，缔造出经得起时间考验的款式。

与此同时，多款手袋推出不同外形、颜色和质感供选择：鲜艳的萤光颜色 SADDLE、干邑色 CANNAGE 藤格纹图案书包、实用斜纹软呢背囊，以及皮革 SANDWICH 卷袋，从奢华到低调，一应俱全。鞋履则以 1995 年诞生的 LADY DIOR 手袋为灵感，在厚底乐福鞋和凉鞋上缀饰全新圆形标志，刻意配合新浪潮风格。STEPHEN JONES 重新诠释了时装界新浪潮的软帽 -「自由之帽」。徽章以「绒花」取代，借镜中国唐朝 (618-907) 以丝绒制作的精美花朵。绒花大师与 DIOR ATELIER 紧密合作，为系列创作出新的配色，重新演绎传统技艺，呈现现代典雅风格，玩出摩登玩味的 PLAYFUL MODERNITY。

Manolo Blahnik Presents The Summer 2024 Collection

Manolo Blahnik presents the summer 2024 collection enduring inspirations of art and architecture. Embellishments take the spotlight once again with jewels, bows, buckles and buttons as the characteristically joyful finishing touches. From Blahnik’s hand-painted prints to the finest textiles and extraordinary techniques, creativity and craftsmanship remain at the heart of it all.

Manolo Blahnik has always been a master of both form and fabric. This season, modernist architecture finds new expressions in stark styles with graphic crisscrossing, undulating curves and a sculptural new heel.

Blahnik plays with absence and presence through colourful accents and cut outs on some, whilst natural rattan lends depth and relief to structural others.

An expert eye for embellishment plays this season with accoutrements reinterpreted from the gothic and belle epoque periods. Droplet-shaped glass stones, brilliant baguette buckles and butter-soft bows grace the elegant styles here. Blahnik hand-painted a botanical print for Summer’s Hangisi and further florals come in through a dramatic rose lace.

Blahnik’s lasting interest in dance first began in childhood when he discovered Les Ballets Russes through a book in his mother’s library. Exquisite costumes from the 1913 production of Nijinsky’s The Rite of Spring inspired a series of styles with evocative swirls and feather-light straps. A primary colour palette and block-toe shapes balance the tradition with a contemporary feel.

Classics are given a characteristically ‘Manolo’ twist this season with a new croc-effect calf material offered in soft and vivid tones. The love-forever Hangisi is offered in two muted, feminine shades whilst the Maysale family expands across flats, mules and pumps. An elegant new bridal edit offers styles in satin, lace and leather adorned with graceful bows and sparkling buckles.

Craftsmanship brings the Summer 2024 collection to life, shining through in structural silhouettes, remarkable embellishments and elevated classics. Manolo Blahnik takes inspirations across art and architecture and adds his inimitable creative touch for a season that’s not to miss.