開場的 first look 造型包裹著透明塑料的雕刻長裙,伴隨著 The Smashing Pumpkins 的搖滾民謠《Disarm》展開,據說這是藉鑑了吹製玻璃的工藝及呼應 Margiela 先生設計的干洗系列為靈感,回收物料的夢幻結構,同時在皇家藝術學院學位展上展示的款式隨後出現,塑料包裹的更多次。接下來相繼出場的設計和造型開始著手打造一個三分之一由升級再造材料製成的系列,運用紙張、影印件、手繪、廢舊珠寶以及用錫盤打成的面具,時而女性化時又見男性化,這 androgynous 的雌雄同體,優雅地平衡了品牌既定的審美及無損設計師自己獨有的標誌性風格。
mylifestylenews
mylifestylenews is a micro web mag based in Melbourne/Hong Kong/Paris/Dubai, by delivering authoritative up-to-date international luxury lifestyle, hotel & travel, wine & dine, fashion, art & culture related events is the fruit of our passion. Founded in 2011, mylifestylenews is an intimate and collaborative site created for global audiences who enjoy following the adventure of latest trends and events around the world.
2025-08-18
TOO BIG IS NEVER TOO SMALL 真的不能假,假的又確能成真 !
開場的 first look 造型包裹著透明塑料的雕刻長裙,伴隨著 The Smashing Pumpkins 的搖滾民謠《Disarm》展開,據說這是藉鑑了吹製玻璃的工藝及呼應 Margiela 先生設計的干洗系列為靈感,回收物料的夢幻結構,同時在皇家藝術學院學位展上展示的款式隨後出現,塑料包裹的更多次。接下來相繼出場的設計和造型開始著手打造一個三分之一由升級再造材料製成的系列,運用紙張、影印件、手繪、廢舊珠寶以及用錫盤打成的面具,時而女性化時又見男性化,這 androgynous 的雌雄同體,優雅地平衡了品牌既定的審美及無損設計師自己獨有的標誌性風格。
2025-07-21
時尚界富貴處處逼人來的 MUSICAL CHAIRS
自 Dior 先生创立品牌以来,Christian Dior Couture 首次由同一位创意总监负责包办所有女装、男装及高级定制系列,去进一步强化其全球创意愿景。上个月 27 日于巴黎上演发布的首个 Dior 2026 夏季男装系列,为品牌处女下海,大骚其超现实主义(亦是 Dior先生生前喜爱的设计意念之一)创作的设计本能,获得业界和媒体大众共享其乐。
Dior 存在于大众的想像,深植于文化和流行文化之中, 但落在 JWA 的手中,娄新创见,不只将之重塑,让无梦者有梦,为有梦者圆梦去解构品牌的设计语言。First Look 的褶皱 cargo short 设计灵感来源更源自 Dior 先生在二战后的古着高级定制系列之一的百褶裙,JWA 将这经典设计重塑再玩,融入男装设计主轴当中,更为玩味及具时代感,并秉承 Dior 先生 look to the past to find future 的哲学格言重现,从中得到的灵感引申至跨时空的设计乐趣。不朽及不败的 Bar Jacket 西装外套配搭,物料更采用了 JWA 祖国爱尔兰的粗花呢,加入若隐若现的色彩纹理,设计心思诚意满载。
穿衣的艺术所蕴含的喜悦源自过去与当下自然而产生共鸣的碰撞,从设计档案中重新发现的典藏文献、象征符号,以及历经时间考验的作品结合在一起。爱尔兰 Donegal 粗花呢及仪仗领带、以至复刻版燕尾礼服和 18-19 世纪马甲背心,皆成为系列改写正装风格的元素重新演绎,将 18 世纪的 dandy 风潮,切合现代风格。玫瑰、细致的刺绣及带有 Rococo 艺术的 Diorette 吊饰,代表了Dior 先生对那段历史时期及英国文化的向往,而这些文化的回响至今依然存在。
悉心打扮是为了奠定角色,青春和自主的活力最终衍生出对想像力的颂歌,JWA 别树一格的设计系列探索难以捉摸及界定的风格,玩弄服装与上流贵族的概念,一种重塑自我和当下的方式,结合了快速且即兴的决定,以旧貌换新颜,让共情定义优雅。
2025-06-16
“DANDILY UGLY VS UGLILY DANDY” 美與醜的界線
每年五月的第一个星期一正是众所瞩目的「时尚奥斯卡」Met Gala 慈善晚宴,这年度盛事设宴于纽约大都会艺术博物馆,势必风起云涌。今年的五月五日也不例外,首次以黑人风尚演变为《Superfine:Tailoring Black Style 极致风范:黑人订制剪裁风尚》的展览主题,聚焦于18 世纪美国奴隶制度瓦解后,非裔男性如何突破身分枷锁,打造融合西服后独特黑人绅士风格的兴起、意义和影响力为前提。当中不乏出现量身订制的西装、优雅绅士帽等,呈现「Black dandyism」睽违 22 年再次专注于男装(距离上次是 2003 年的《Men in Skirts》主题),实行将黑人花花公子主义的穿着的潇洒装扮发挥得淋漓尽致。截稿前虽已是六月中旬,业界的谈论却意犹未尽,籍此随机挑选几个穿着造型,回味一番。
「Tailored for You」为您量身订制的 Dress Code 御旨一下,除了有早前公布的非裔男明星联合主席阵容:LV男装创意总监 Pharrell Williams、F1赛车选手Lewis Hamilton、 Ray-Ban 创意总监 A$AP Rocky 皆穿着华服登场外,名人如 Rosé、Jennie、Lisa、Anne Hathaway、Rihanna等也陆续展现自己与设计师对于 Dress Code 主题的见解,分别以不同品牌大使的身分现身红毯,打造出重译黑人风尚演变的夺目造型和精彩穿搭。当晚红毯上众星们那些疯狂造型,那一套亮相造型又有美得令人屏息、颠得让人发紫,狂得令人难忘?!谁人(能)又跳过那无形界线,留下历史印记,充斥世界千万年?!即使当晚天空不作美,也浇不熄这热络时尚盛会,这时尚奥斯卡的“真人秀”,你对此审美认同的又有几多?!
身为 Louis Vuitton 品牌大使的 Lisa 上演「下半身失踪」辣翻,黑色镂空的夹克,外层为紧身胸衣搭上印有 Monogram 老花纹的透肤丝袜镶嵌工艺制成,以及绣有多个人脸的开岔短裤,大秀美腿 ;加上那头高盘发和手上的黑白 Speedy P9 Bandoulière 20 波士顿包,搭配饰有手工镶嵌象征花花公子风的珍珠链条,俐落轮廓抓人眼球并呼应今届主题,可谓衬职的代言人!
Met Gala 从举办日期、主题概念及穿著 Dress Code 又如公司联欢晚会,一年比一年商业加做作及 trying to hard to impress。在 too safe is too boring 或 too much is too “dandily ugly” 的道理和无形定理,周旋于美与丑的界线和界限,你又有何见解?!
2025-05-19
TOO SAFE IS TOO BORING 流行不流行之我為何讓你走?!《下》
TOO SAFE IS TOO BORING
流行不流行之我為何讓你走?!
《下》
Alessandro Michele的被离任,GUCCI的创意总监悬空的地位立即由擅于被业界认为真懂剪裁的设计师Sabato De Sarno顶上。对于品牌的价值竞赛而言,开云集团为品牌定下了150亿欧元离地的中期转型目标 ,不仅要稳住现有客户, 还得设法寻找新客群,誓要继Tom Ford的性感美学和Michele的极繁文艺设计定位路向为品牌带来二次爆发性的销售增长。
Sabato 背负如此重担,要重新演绎品牌的DNA并用全新风格为品牌打开新篇章及带来新鲜感去让销量增长,能撑得住吗?答案是 BIG NO抑或是全民效应的ALL YESES呢?!经典形象是个性化的一种表达方式,要达到目标之余,设计师除了本身的根基要厚,创作能力不再只是着重表达自我或反复挖掘品牌archive档案去诠释品牌的核心价值;人做我不做,要杀出条新血路才是硬道理。Sabato上任GUCCI三季定江山的“试用期”已过,交出来的成绩也只能说是不过不失的行货,走的是平庸路线,闷,极闷,too safe is too boring。
Sabato 为GUCCI处男下海的2024春夏系列时装秀的确叫人万众期待,奈何换来的只是叫人过目即忘的平庸设计。Logo被去掉,没有半点GUCCI味及高辨识度,甚至被大量媒体及时尚达人评为“在GUCCI秀场看了一场Prada及Miu Miu的时尚秀”及“This is GUCCI by Zara”。没有大将之风的流水式设计空洞迷茫,旧酒新瓶,能看却不想喝,没有个人特色、性感和感性可言,可悲程度顺理升呢,未能激起购买欲的乐趣。首场秀后没有被解雇,也算还得神落。
与观众和媒体几乎绝缘,设计单吊,千篇一律,抄完又抄,乏味兼无趣,难获消费者共鸣。丑到连打小人都嫌笨重的松糕鞋和露股的短裤,叫谁来埋单?!虽则乍看无聊的系列设计欠缺个人风格,但衣服本身却质感十足,具有极高的制衣水平。第二场为GUCCI设计的2024秋冬系列延续首场的同一框架,平凡零惊喜,并且带点困惑。系列设计选用了刺绣及天鹅绒等的上等面料,尝试制造出不同的层次感,水平颇高,但并不代表具有极美的审美观感。
将最好的材料放在同一锅揽炒未必佳,同时亦没有塑造出鲜明的形象或叫人一见便爱上的效应。Sabato 受访时更实言:“I don’t have a theme - ever. My theme is my clothes.”我做衣服未有主题,我的主题正是衣服本身的“玄”论是无知的进行模式乎?!难道不吃洋葱也真的能这么大口气?如此的精工拷贝,获业界负评是必然法则,能够留史成为笑话真的只是我,昂贵的教训是这刻,觉悟了吗?
第三场的2025度假系列更有不少造型和设计都带有Michele时期的设计拷贝影子,亦显得有点不伦不类,官方不是一早说好下令删除所有和Michele时期有关的设计吗?在截稿前,世界各地的店面还可略见Michele时期的装横和大量爆款在热卖。这下贱的倒贴之美,来到第四季2025春夏时装秀,有事没事不如Prada及Miu Miu一下,是来满足Prada旧粉的回味设计吗?自上任后大叫GUCCI ANCORA口号的营销概念,亦不见独特,猪肝红的色调更成为了品牌的惨淡收场,没有清晰表达或要具体复兴些什么。热闹过后,口号叫完,三场的时装秀也没有让这猪肝红大放异彩,一个浮华而空洞的时尚概念,以颜营而言是彻底失败。
《完》
2025-04-28
THE MURRAY HONG KONG - A Niccolo Hotel @ The Heritage Landmark That Sparks
The latest incarnation has been re-designed by Sir Norman Foster and his team at Foster+Partners bringing this iconic landmark and magnificent building to life as a celebration of the past and present. It is an arresting building, but the exterior belies the chic luxury within.
The airport express rail is the fastest and easiest way to get you into Central and The Murray, Hong Kong offers the scheduled shuttle bus services from Hong Kong Station back and forth, hence our mode of transport.
Our check-in process was smooth as silk, greeted and handled promptly with formalities over in no time and then we were escorted up to our 50sqm N3 Grand Deluxe Room.
The bathrobes and slippers felt luxurious, the branded amenities from the luxury Australian skin health brand Grown Alchemist that work in harmony with the your skin were fabulous. Wardrobe space was capacious, a working desk in one window nook was just the perfect placement without intruding on the flow in the room proper.
The colour scheme harmonized the interior with high quality leather, artisan textiles as well as elegant choice of sleek mid-century furniture was spot on, as though you are walking into those shots from the glossy magazine that features those urban luxurious apartments.
Tech-savvy lighting controls, complimentary high-speed Wi-Fi alongside with a high definition Smart TV and broadband internet access is seamless as well as a host of complimentary amenities to indulge.
Most importantly, the room is bathed in natural sunlight with a stunning and uninterrupted view of the adjacent St John’s Cathedral from a different vantage point to marvel the lively city skyline that changes its vista day and night and we were more than excited to be checking into this contemporary urban sanctuary. There’s definitely a unique mind-set in their target audience, the Gen-Z millennial or the sophisticated someone with a disposable income group that are young at heart and here to play.
To further explore this iconic property, the beautiful lobby bring the outside in with lots of natural light and greenery aplenty. The architectural design really made a difference with superb colour schemes and choice of materials that really complemented the surroundings to allow the nature outside to come in and given the humidity in Hong Kong, the coolness of marble is always a positive thing.
A ground floor bar and cafe that spreads out into the laneway and subsequently called Murray Lane surrounded by curated art, serves up a wide selection of international whiskeys and crafted cocktails is also a popular destination for a bankers breakfast, coffees on the go and aperitivo hours.
Upper ground floor houses two food and beverage operations that split into the The Tai Pan that serves a variety of premium cuts at night and is also an alternative breakfast venue that extends to The Tai Pan Terrace, a delightful family-style al fresco dining.
Then to satisfy Chinese food cravings there is MIAN in a specially commissioned two-storey pavilion adjacent to the hotel entrance and also Popinjays, a contemporary Italian rooftop restaurant and bar with a wrap around terrace offering surreal stunning far-reaching views of the Hong Kong city skyline especially by night and The Peak being one of the most sought after sky bars in town.
The large below ground indoor swimming pool is rather intimate, with a wall of greenery on one side together with a quite unusual feature of a hot tub vitality pool built in a hammam-like dome ceiling. We availed ourselves of the pool and it is definitely long enough for lap swimming, but only wide enough for three swimmers at one time to do laps, but more than satisfactory.
Breakfast is a fine repast in The Tai Pan and the Garden Lounge combined and is a full on semi-buffet. You can help yourself to some fresh yoghurts, juices, pastries, green salad and even steamed Dim Sum and congee with condiments that are all displayed orderly.
The dishes are beautifully presented and utterly delicious and served at the right temperature. Congee, Wanton noodles and Dim Sum were fresh and tasty, the poached egg on avocado toast was a favourite as well and the eggs Benedict cooked to perfection. Service was mostly prompt and warm and friendly, with only a few team members not getting with the programme on one day, but every morning was a joy with the sun shining in welcoming the start of the day.
Tried & Tested:
Location: 5/5
Design & Decor: 5/5
Housekeeping: 5/5
Food & Beverage: 5/5
Service: 5/5
Value For Money: 5/5
Experience: 5/5
The Murray, Hong Kong
22 Cotton Tree Drive
Central, Hong Kong
Tel: +852 3141 8888
Reviews are based on actual day of visit and experience. mylifestylenews reserves the right of final decision in case of any disputes. All images are photographed by mylifestylenews team without any photoshop enhancement and are the property owned by mylifestylenews unless otherwise stated.