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2019-06-17

聖羅蘭眼中的Piet Mondrian (II)


聖羅蘭眼中的Piet Mondrian II

聖羅蘭極具革命性的1965年秋冬系列,不但展現了一種現代,前衛的風格,而且設計立刻得到了熱烈的回應。以當年的市場競爭為由,le Journal de Paris巴黎報於19658曾經報導 :“聖羅蘭的美德就是今年他用舊有的原則去創做出一個全新的系列。 在這方面,他的設計系列是獨一無二的。”對於這個系列,Journal du dimanche周日時報於1965815日報導則有另一説法, 當年年僅29歲的聖羅蘭,疑似開始厭倦只為“億萬富翁”製作悲哀的衣裳並試圖通過其它途徑來捕捉當時的時代精神,刻意去創作及設計一些更優雅和具色彩的衣裳。

以卡通人物創作為藍本至世界而聞名,著名插畫家aleXsandro Palombo將一些時尚界知名人士轉變為藍精靈之後,他相繼地創作了一系列名為“Marge Simpson Style Icon”的插圖,並於2013年在他的博客Humor Chic上發佈。這位意大利 藝術家選擇使用Simpson家族的母親成員向他認為對二十世紀風格有影響的禮服致敬,並“改變了時尚歷程,為我們社會的重大變化提供了美麗的新視野“。另外一位阿根廷插畫家Pablo LobatoRolling StoneThe New YorkerThe New York Times等出版刊物製作了這大膽,豐富而多彩的名人肖像。在這裡,Yves Saint Laurent被描繪在Mondrian連衣裙旁邊,表示著被歌頌和喚起設計師的職業生涯和工作。

原始草圖是聖羅蘭創作系列的第一步,一旦完成,這張草圖會被送去工作室,結構成時裝騷棉質印花布和原型的基礎。研究草圖亦是同時製作但不會被使用。一旦原始草圖被選用,它就會被複製在名為“Bible pages”的規格表上,這個名稱正顯示了它們的重要性。聖羅蘭為當時他正在準備一個系列的有關研究草圖,可惜到最終都沒有被製成。插圖是時裝騷後高級定製時裝工作室的插圖畫家收集的集合草圖,其中一些被發送給客戶,因此他們可以選擇他們想要嘗試的設計,而其它則留在試衣間作展示。除了與工作室和設計所屬的相關模特兒信息之外,這些文件還包含了材料和顏色,供應商名稱以及與服裝一起佩戴的飾物配件參考。圖像板上根據主題對設計進行分組,並概述了整個時裝騷次序,時裝騷記錄了客戶,記者,朋友和買家們的詳細座位安排。每一件在天橋上的設計都會由司儀以法文和英文贅述,而完騷後,該設計系列會以新聞稿發送給相關的單位。

20世紀的60年代,高級時裝店需要發放新聞稿和照片。此時,在時裝騷之前或之後的幾天,就直接在高級時裝屋和鄰近的街道上拍攝,同時亦被正式禁止在1965830日之前發布。在時裝週期間完騷之後,該系列可以向客戶,記者和買家在時裝屋的招待室再次定期或預約和近距離接觸和觀賞系列作品展示。

Mondrian聯成的系列總共有兩件刺繡的晚裝和六件羊毛平紋針織或真絲縐紗雞尾酒禮服,搭配strass胸針,並穿著在羊毛外套下。這些服裝符合了簡單和輕便的需要,立即風靡當時活躍於時尚界和社交界,更深受著名寫作人Francois Giroud和名媛Grace Kelly的青睞。Harper's Bazaar雜誌在19659 月刊撰文説道此連衣裙標明了 “The imperative abstraction, the garment of tomorrow, strictly defined in perfectly-proportioned while jersey to flatter the silhouette” Mondrian本人當年也許亦感受到這種演變和進化,曾宣稱:“時尚不僅準確地反映了一個時代,它也是人類文化中更直接的視覺表達形式之一”。

聖羅蘭創造了一場名副其實的時尚革命,他為自己的創作方式解説,強烈希望創造出不僅只有線條並且還有顏色組成的連衣裙。在他眼中,時尚不應太過死板和克制,必須更具動感。 他決定以簡單和幾乎抽象及完美比例的剪裁去創做一個屬於自己的時尚朝代,而那平紋針織面料方塊組合技術的方式鑲嵌工藝成果,就連肉眼都難以察覺得到,簡直是天衣無縫。時至今天,當談及聖羅蘭和Mondrian的時尚和畫作,在時尚界和藝術界無人不為之而讚嘆,這同時也説明了專業和純熟工匠的獨特工藝以及獨具慧眼的設計師聯乘的不朽之謎。

《完》

註:
*Piet Mondrian(1872- 1944),原名Pieter Cornelis Mondriaan 是一位荷蘭畫家和理論家,被認為是20世紀最偉大的藝術家之一。 他以20世紀抽象藝術的先驅者而聞名,他將藝術方向從具象繪畫轉變為日益抽象的風格,直到他的藝術詞彙被簡化為簡單的幾何元素更響譽成名。


OMEGA Seamaster - A Diver for Dad


When the original OMEGA Seamaster Diver 300M was built in 1993, it came equipped for a life of action. Ever since then, it has been a trusted choice both above and below the waves, and still stands today as one of the world’s most intrepid watches. For adventurous Dads everywhere, the Seamaster Diver 300M would make a perfect Father’s Day gift. Not only does it come with a history of diving experience and technology, but it also looks sharp under a business suit or tuxedo. In fact, just ask James Bond! The Seamaster Diver 300M has been worn by 007 for more than 20 years and if it’s good enough for the world’s favourite spy, it’s surely good enough for your Dad! The collection itself has undergone a revolutionary makeover in recent years. Sized at 42 mm, today’s new stainless steel models include sleek ceramic dials with laser-engraved waves, as well as ceramic bezels with distinctive diving scales in white enamel. Inside, he’ll be able to count on an OMEGA Master Chronometer Calibre 8800 which has been tested and certified at the industry’s highest standard of precision, performance and magnetic-resistance.


2019-06-14

Saint Laurent Introduces The Suede Monogram Bag Saint Laurent All Over

Saint Laurent launches the suede monogram Saint Laurent all over this summer 2019. Its suede leather is entirely embossed with the logo of the house then carefully aged to reproduce the attitude of a vintage bag. Available in two colors: black and burgundy and three different shapes: bucket, satchel and camera bag.

2019-06-13

Giuseppe Zanotti SS2019 Campaign

Giuseppe Zanotti SS2019 advertising campaign is about natural beauty. Pure Giuseppe. Photographed for the first time by Craig McDean and featuring model Grace Elizabeth, the pared-back, emotive portfolio captures the essence of Giuseppe Zanotti - feminine, beautifully crafted and luxuriously one-of-kind through the filter of today’s contemporary woman. Shot in studio, minimalist and bare, the portraits are wonderfully real yet full of emotion and allure.


Alternating between black and white and color, the images show Grace in spring’s standout styles, including the ornate, couture-crafted “Peony” stiletto sandal and the dazzling “Hollie Big Diamond” flat, among others. Yet, there’s nothing overwrought or overdone. Grace’s poses are natural and intimate.


And the accompanying styling, from frayed denim shorts to an oversize blazer to rolled up jeans, is a remarkable counterpoint, showcasing how women dress today. “I really wanted to do something different, modern with this campaign,” says Giuseppe Zanotti. “My shoes have always been and will always be works of art embellished, feminine, gorgeous… but today there are no longer rules about evening style versus day. A contemporary woman is just as comfortable pairing a stiletto with jeans as a flat with a dress. The choice is hers.”


A modern treatise on contemporary style and inherent beauty, the campaign puts the shoes and the self-possessed women who wear them front and center. Add-ons are not needed. To wit, the six portraits and one still life are a pure expression of Giuseppe Zanotti’s essence.

2019-06-12

PRADA Presents First Gold Fine Jewellery Collection

Prada presents its very first collection of gold fine jewellery in an exquisite, highly original style, precious materials are handcrafted in sophisticated designs that reinvent iconic symbols and the themes of the new collections.


For the first time ever, Prada's collections now gleam with creations made of gold. Guitars, roses and rabbits, not to mention robots, bananas, and the brand's triangular logo, relive Prada's history in gold and diamonds, providing a fresh interpretation with an unmistakable hint of irony of the brand’s iconic symbols in the form of contemporary and timeless earrings, bracelets, pendants and necklaces.


These quintessential objects from Prada's past alternate with the emblematic features of the new collections.


Prada’s fine jewellery is made using 18-carat gold and diamonds from suppliers with Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) certification. The RJC is a non-profit organisation, founded in 2015 to promote responsible practices from an ethical, social and environmental point of view and respect for human rights in the handling of metals and precious stones, from their extraction right through to their sale.


The sophisticated work that goes into making these items involves numerous meticulous steps and precise, artisan techniques: precision casting of the gold, CNC machining and wire drawing to cut the diamonds and create other elements. These processes pair traditional knowledge with technological innovation, ensuring perfect quality for each item.


2019-06-11

Celebrities In PRADA @ The 73rd Annual Tony Awards

 Bryan Cranston, winner of ‘Best Lead Actor in a Play’ for <Network>, in Prada and Robin Dearden chose a Prada blue marine crêpe de chine chemisier dress with a draped neckline and a pleated skirt.

Regina King wore a Prada pink silk satin gown with an American neckline and an asymmetric drapery.

Ben Platt in Prada.