mylifestylenews

2014-10-24

In conversation with Pauline Y. & NAM T. @ Designer of A Tentative Atelier


JOYCE launches the "Talent Shop" in collaboration with Hong Kong Design Institute at Joyce Cares PMQ recently. Following on from the successful "Upcycle Project" with the Institute of Textile & Clothing (ITC), JOYCE CARES - a unique sustainability platform that aims at nurturing upcoming artists and designers, channeling its creative spirit into philanthropy; JOYCE CARES extends the Joyce experience to the community by collaborating with emerging young talents on sustainable projects. The project is part of Joyce's on going mission to promote sustainability and corporate social responsibility through partnership with local institutions while providing retail support and opportunities to aspiring designers and visionaries. JOYCE has pledged HKD$10,000 worth of financial sponsorship to each brand in addition to an opportunity to retail their collections at JOYCE CARES PMQ unit from August to October 2014 in all areas of retail, including operations, visual merchandising, marketing and business planning. mylifestylenews hear their voices of why being a Hong Kong fashion designer needs more support from various platforms......



We started in 2012 after working a few years in fashion industry, we wanted to express our vision in fashion then we found a place in an industrial building and set up our own workshop in Hong Kong and to start our collection. Everything happened in such a short period of time. 

The local fashion scene totally need funding support as well as a platform like showroom or boutique to showcase our work.

"Joyce Talent Shop" provided us a platform even just for a short period of time. When you look at London fashion scene, the  London Fashion Council does quite a bit of promotion, provide a channel to support their local designers during fashion week in London or even in Paris fashion scene. Media exposure is also essential especially for new designers, they are some Chinese designer had established their names and doing successful in London, Paris and Milan, thanks to the power of media publicity.

A funding support for helping fashion designers set up the brand and this is what happen to China and other foreign countries right now. Frankly, the financial support is greater from what was anticipated to initiate and run a fashion label. Hence, a funding foundation for any nominated designers would be a great aids.

Any fashion related project is a good exposure for designers, it is just depend on how you promote it. Joyce is a leading international boutique, this project shows they begin to care for the local fashion scene and provide a farther opportunities to the local talents, it is also a good opportunity to bring the Hong Kong designers to another level.


Hong Kong fashion scene is lacking of personality. Hong Kong people follow the trend quite closely and put themselves to look like they just walk out from the window display. There isn't much soul in their style. Besides, independent boutiques and select shops is becoming less and less in Hong Kong and left only the big retail stores survive.

The challenge being a Hong Kong designer is to have enough finance and time to run your own label. 

Fashion is a channel for us to express our art vision.

We do not follow the trend to design our clothes but we do review the trend as a reference because you won't survive if you outreach the fashion boundaries while you design the clothes.

The selling price point in Joyce is according to our retailer's selling price standard. We have marked down a little, the calculation usually is 2 to 2.5 times mark up from our cost to the buyers and it varies sometimes.

We never have thought of the achievement for a fashion designer. Since our brand is established, we would like to have our own store one day.


A Tentative Atelier was established by design duo Nam T. and Pauline Y. in 2012. Based between Hong Kong and UK, the label does not just focus on fashion and is a platform to showcase the spirit and tradition of craftsmanship. The design team is supported by tailors and machinists who are considered the last remaining generation of Shanghai artisans. The collections are divided into two lines consisting of an artisanal collection and a more wearable line which were presented in Paris Fashion Week.


TORY BURCH @ FW2014 Collection


TORY BURCH FW2014 collection inspiration starts with the armor her parents collected. The references are subtle, whether in the mix of textures (woven, quilted, pleated) or in the tapestry brocades and florals. The focus is on clean, strong silhouettes with bold embellishments.  Accessories reflect the mood, belts with chain details, lace-up ghillie heels and muffs.


<INSPIRATION>
“Fall inspiration started with armor. It’s something I grew up with. My grandfather collected it and then my parents and now I do.”


<OVERALL COLLECTION>
“There’s a sense of richness to the collection but it’s also a bit laid back and casual.”


<PROPORTION/SILHOUETTES>
“We played a lot with proportions. We always balanced the silhouette we did oversized on top with shorter on the bottom and vice versa.”


<TAPESTRY PRINT AND COLOR>
“A lot of pieces were taken directly from a tapestry. We looked at it for the textures and the colors. We started with reds and then added on olives and grays.”


<SADDLERY PRINTS>
“We did some great saddlery prints that were inspired by a 16th-century book.  We mixed in textures from different saddles and incorporated that into prints.”


<DRAGON AND HORSE PRINT>
“Our dragon and horse prints have a bit of whimsy but done in a way that’s sophisticated.”


<ACCESSORIES>
“Some of the texture from RTW appeared throughout accessories, including the handbags. I love our slouchy satchel. We did it in all different ways in tooled leather, in embossed leather, in vintage leather and in different sizes.”


<EMBELLISHMENT>
“Embellishments were either very bold or very minimal. When we thought about armor we didn’t want to be too literal. You can see it in the trim on a wrap skirt, Maltese cross details, and an oversized fisherman’s sweater with foil at the top.”

MM6 @ Private Guided Tour


MM6 Maison Martin Margiela was created in 1997, resdy when wear - liberal assembling of shapes and volumns. Free of orders and rules of how to wear the pieces or match their colours. All emphasis is on the garment in motion and not the clothing itself. Playful and in movement - Rules are broken, sartorial norms are played with. A sensitive touch, the garment's conception goes beyond its fabric identity. Its use and practicality are for a reason. The fabric is affected. Pieces can be altered, can adapt and accompany their wearer.


From the very beginning, the MM6 logo has been depicted by a hand forming the number 6 sign. Since then, this sign has traveled through time and space: Paris, London, Florence, New York, Seoul...Maison employees and friends alike contribute to the circulation of this sign against landscape backdrops, much like a postcards. It is from these images that the idea came to host the MM6 Private Guided Tour...A trip around the world of iconic images, cliches, cities in which MM6 stores were opened, always playing with touristic codes and stereotypes of large metropolises. 


MM6 Private Guided Tour celebrates the world of stores, travelling and souvenirs with an exhibition presenting an overview of the line: show videos, archive pieces and imagery, a display of iconic MM6 look: Touristic, holiday souvenir cliches like suitcase tags, key-rings, postcard...you name it and now the exhibition is in Hong Kong ifc mall with three themes presented :


<Trompe-l'oel and prints>
Each season an emblematic print is developed through pieces in the collection: photos, details and images of the countries that host MM6 stores, Trompe-l'oeil is also a recurrent theme for MM6 and is often used for prints, shape and accessories.

<Over-size>
BY reinterpreting shapes and volumn, MM6 plays with size - too big or too small - giving the clothing and additional use with a playful function, light and easy.

<Minimalism>
Minimalism dictates MM6;s fundamental appeal. Simple shapes, clean and pure cuts, vibrant primary colours and black and white are used as brand references.