CHAUMET reopened its historic hôtel particulier at 12 Place Vendôme recently. The home of the Maison since 1812 – when it was initially at No. 15 – Place Vendôme more than ever represents the beating heart of Chaumet. On its 240th anniversary, the Maison is undertaking a majestic celebration of its historic hôtel particulier located at No.12, at the heart of the legendary epicentre of Parisian jewellery. Balancing tradition with modernity, this revived and redesigned location highlights the metaphorical cornerstones of the Maison as its founder intended them: the clients, to whom a boutique capturing the allure of an exceptional Parisian apartment is dedicated; culture and heritage, represented in grand salons, in particular the Salon Chopin, a listed historic monument; and, above all, the virtuosity of the High Jewellery workshop, which now overlooks the square.
With bees and golden ears of wheat, lush foliage, graphic mirrors and Chaumet blue trellis, to celebrate its reopening a symbolic garden temporarily stretches across the façade of 12 Vendôme, rising from the boutique to the workshop, encircling the grand salons along the way. Magically lit after nightfall, this enchanting installation provides an architectural\ revisiting of the Maison’s treasured union of naturalistic inspiration and jewellery culture.
Envisaged as an invitation to partake in an aesthetic and narrative exploration, the 12 Vendôme boutique takes visitors on a journey through the world of Chaumet. The Joséphine, Liens and Jardins collections are displayed on the ground floor. The Maison’s creative vocabulary is echoed in the delicate decor. Ears of wheat, seemingly rippling in the wind, are embroidered on the upholstered walls, engraved on the walnut panelling, and finely gilded on stone. Whether polished or sculpted, the alabaster that adorns the walls recalls the working of precious stones. The engraved panels of the grand staircase pay tribute to the love story at the Maison’s foundation, evoking the passionate correspondence between Napoléon and Joséphine.
Upstairs, the High Jewellery and jewellery collections are on display in a scene of sophisticated comfort. Simultaneously luxuriant and symbolic, the vegetation that unfurls across the bas-reliefs adorning the walls of an alcove reinterprets key Maison motifs, such as the ear of wheat and the laurel.
The Salon des Joyaux
A showcase in sunny hues, the Salon des Joyaux is dedicated to the presentation of High Jewellery pieces and the designing of special orders. In natural shades or tinted Chaumet blue, the straw marquetry radiating across the walls was created specially for the Maison by the Jallu Straw workshop.
The Salon Malmaison
In matrimonial white accented with touches of gold, the refined setting of the Salon Malmaison is the destination for those about to say “yes”, for the choosing of wedding or engagement rings. A changing room concealed behind mirrored screens allows future brides to try wedding parures to match their dress. Under the golden halo of a ceiling imitating water ripples, furnishings with a contemporary spirit are inspired by Joséphine. An engraving depicting the Temple of Love at the Château de Malmaison adorns the sides of a chest of drawers, while the Empress’ garden is outlined in the woven carpet.
1970. Chaumet inaugurated Arcade, an informal space resembling a contemporary art gallery, dedicated to graphic pieces. Today, inspired by this avant-garde aesthetic and in the same location, the Maison unveils a new space whose contemporary furnishings capture a seventies spirit. A sculpture by the artist Milena Naef resonates with the sensory dimension of jewels, as reinterpreted by Chaumet over time. Arcade now offers pieces that can be personalised or worn in an infinity of ways as desired.
The Grand Salons and The Heritage
The Salon Chopin
A 12 Vendôme artistic treasure, the Salon Chopin is classified as an historic monument. In 1779, artisans prized by King Louis XVI and Queen Marie-Antoinette conceived its sumptuous decor at the request of Baron Baudard de Sainte-James. The architect François-Joseph Bélanger was responsible for the overall sense of harmony, while the paintings of Lagrenée le Jeune adorn the walls, and the Rousseau brothers’ sculpted panelling depicts anchors, shells and tridents - alluding to the Baron’s role as Treasurer General of the Navy. It was in this exceptional setting that Chopin, in 1849, and a resident of 12 Place Vendôme, composed his last mazurka. Today, a Pleyel piano from 1920 serves to perpetuate this salon’s musical identity.
The Salon des Diadèmes
With hundreds of nickel silver tiaras standing out against a blue background, the Maison’s emblematic hue, this salon’s new scenography is a tribute to its history. In Joseph Chaumet’s time, nickel silver models were presented to the clients who came to admire the Maison’s breadth of creative possibilities before placing their orders. The final step before production of the jewel begins, the nickel silver model, made with an alloy of copper, zinc and nickel, provides a three-dimensional rendering of the preparatory drawings of complex pieces such as tiaras and certain necklaces. Hand-painted to suggest the colour of the stones, these unique items are rare and precious creations in their own right. Testaments to a richly creative past, the collection of over 500 nickel silver pieces held by the Maison serves as an inexhaustible source of inspiration and is enriched by new examples produced for each special order.
The Salon des Perles
Given a contemporary revisiting in midnight blue and gold tones, the Napoléon III-style panelling creates a harmonious contrast with a bucolic ceiling scene painted by Pierre-Victor Galland, nephew of Jean-Baptiste Fossin, head of the Maison’s workshop. In this room, a carpet painted by a highly-specialised craftsman portrays a graphic and dreamlike version of two of the Maison’s most important themes - tiaras and nature.
The High Jewellery workshop
The beating heart of the Maison for 240 years, the High Jewellery workshop now looks over Place Vendôme. This is where Chaumet creations are born, in the hands of jewellers, setters, polishers and apprentices, under the direction of Benoît Verhulle, the 13th workshop head since the Maison was founded. The virtuosity of the creations is given pride of place in this new location in which the soul of the building has also been respected, the sculpted reliefs of the original ceiling having been uncovered during the restoration work.
The Mémoires, 12 Narratives Exhibition
Marking the Maison’s 240th anniversary, the Cabinet des Portraits, the Salon des Diadèmes and the Salon des Dessins are playing host to a temporary exhibition. Mémoires, 12 narratives brings together 12 pieces specially chosen to share the Chaumet story, 12 statements of prolific creativity, uniting different eras, styles and jewellery functions. Juxtaposed with these 12 jewellery creations, a selection from the Maison’s unique archives evokes the genesis and singular destiny of each object, along with the art of wearing it. From one archive to the next, the history of Chaumet is
brought to unique life.
For brightening up a dull complexion and erasing sunspots, Vitamin C is one of the most popular ingredients. Despite the lauded brightening reputation, its side effects are fairly common, resulting in photosensitivity during the day, skin irritation and allergic. Inspired by the iconic Vinoperfect Radiance Serum, Caudalie has newly launched the clean and safe brightening day cream, Vinoperfect Dark Spot Correcting Moisturizer to keep the skin radiant throughout the day without any side effects.
Designed with the star patented vine sap Viniferine, with natural brightening power 62 times more effective than Vitamin C, Vitamin B3, White Peony Extract and 100% Natural Origin Pearlizers, this innovative day-time whitening solution corrects and prevents any types of dark spots, without causing photosensitivity, irritation and drying. While diminishing and regulating the melanin transfer, the moisturizer captures light and reveals the natural and healthy glow of the skin all-day-long. Power up with Vinoperfect Radiance Serum to enhance the brightening effect for a new level of clarity and luminosity!
Hands are often the first place where sun spots appear as they are constantly exposed to UV rays, Caudalie has also created Vinoperfect Dark Spot Correcting Hand Cream, the expert anti-dark spot treatment for your hands. Also infused with the star patent Viniferine, the hand cream evens the skin tone while protecting and nourishing the skin, making your hands more beautiful and reveal the healthy and truly translucent milky skin.
JUANA MARTÍN returns to conquer Paris together with Rossy de Palma and Lita Cabellut presented her 2020 Haute Collection Les Cours de Ma Maison at the Spanish Embassy during Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week in January.
Each season Juana Martín intends to transport the French public to the depths of Andalusian culture, but this occasion is special.
Córdoba, her homeland, has always been one of her sources of inspiration, her talisman, and in this collection she could only trust her place.
The city in spring blooms in each of its courtyards, and it has been this tradition so ingrained to Andalusia that has made it possible for Les Cours de Ma Maison to be born.
Together with the collaboration of the City Hall of Córdoba, the Spanish designer arrives in Paris with unique and risky looks that reflects the DNA of the brand: contemporary flamenco, flamenco - chic.
Each steering wheel, each mole, each embroidery and the elegance of pastel, black and white colors manages to recreate the flowers of this Andalusian land.
Joining her two passions, her work and Córdoba, the designer once again steps on Paris with more force than ever before by the hand of Rossy de Palma and Lita Cabellut.
The luxury headdress brand Tolentino Hats will bring its extravagance that identifies them so much. Embroidery Manuela Romero will also collaborate with their crafts by recreating the flowers of the old Andalusian manila shawls.
Juana Martín, thus becomes the first gypsy and Andalusian woman to participate in the week of Paris Haute Couture.
Cover photo by Carl van Assche
LOEWE previews new images featuring Emmy and BAFTA-winning actor Jodie Comer across Paris to coincide with the catwalk debut of the SS2020 womenswear collection. Photographed by Steven Meisel, LOEWE’s new campaign captures the British actor in a moment of introspection before going on stage. Best known for playing the Russian assassin Villanelle in the BBC series Killing Eve, for which she won Best Actress at the 2019 BAFTA and Emmy awards, Meisel’s image for LOEWE sees his gaze hover over Comer’s shoulder, observing her observing her reflection in the mirror.
‘Jodie is exceptionally talented, and what’s so magical about her is that she is 100 per cent committed to an idea’, says LOEWE’s creative director Jonathan Anderson. ‘I find that incredibly inspiring and I think that’s why people have gravitated towards her, and why we wanted to work with her in this campaign.’ Nowhere is this commitment more evident than in Either Way, the house’s new film featuring Jodie Comer in her dressing room repeatedly enunciating the word “LOEWE” across the whole spectrum of emotions. Directed by Steven Meisel, the new film will be released alongside the preview of the campaign photographs.
‘Jonathan and his work are so incredibly distinctive. It’s inspiring to work alongside someone who pushes boundaries and creates in the way that he does. I feel the SS2020 collection really accentuates and celebrates femininity, which is a complete reflection of my experience shooting the campaign. To have had the opportunity to work with Steven Meisel and to have been supported and encouraged in the way that I was, is something I am extremely grateful for and will never forget,’ says Jodie Comer.
In keeping with LOEWE’s collaborations with Meisel and creative agency M/M (Paris), the new campaign photographs are released as a trilogy. SS2020 sees the portrait of Jodie Comer accompanied by a photograph of a fluorescent slime oozing through long, manicured fingernails. Taken from the new series titled A Show of Hands - from which an image of a tattooed fist grasping a grassy clump of earth was previewed during the men’s shows in Paris last June - the series of hands holding seemingly incongruous objects places the onus of interpretation upon the viewer, in much the same manner as the ambiguity of Comer’s expression does. Completing the triptych is a still life image introducing SS2020’s Lazo Mini Bags. Handcrafted in Spain from calfskin leather, these new editions of the Lazo are rendered in soft orange and yellow, and a seductive burgundy.
Giuseppe Zanotti SS2020 Beauty is Strength Advertising Campaign is Feminine. Confident. Strong. Sensual. To mark the first season of the new decade, the House captured a series of vivid, high-contrast images for its newest advertising series.
Bathed in natural light with sparkling waters forming a striking backdrop, each image epitomizes the modern glamour, contemporary femininity and distinguished craftsmanship of Giuseppe Zanotti. “For Spring 2020, I wanted to create a kind of stylistic clean slate,” says founder and designer Giuseppe Zanotti. “This campaign conveys my ethos of beauty and strength; style and craftsmanship.” The campaign celebrates four key silhouettes, each one uniquely Giuseppe.
First up the “Lillium.” Featuring a gorgeous, oversize leather constructed lily, the new season sandal is inspired by couture craft and nature’s inherent beauty. Captured on deck in a sea of shadows - the stand-out stiletto is a study in ease, elegance and all things chic. The “Catia” is deceivingly simply but utterly enticing. Crafted with a suggestive, cut-out heel, the sleek sandal exalts the foot with its flourish of straps and sensual minimalism.
For Spring 2020, all that shines is indeed gold. Channeling the ‘70s, the “Bebe” platform is a contemporary homage to a silhouette that is at once powerful and sassy. Yet in the world of Giuseppe Zanotti, sky-high isn’t the only expression of femininity. The “Phoebe” with its cheeky block heel, strong T-strap and dazzling crystal-encrusted floral brooch proves there is more than one way to turn heads. “This campaign really represents the authentic energy of the brand - sensual and self-confident,” says Giuseppe Zanotti. “Set among gleaming waters, the overall effect is compelling, contemporary and arresting.”
FURLA SS2020 Advertising Campaign taps supermodel Irina Shayk and established Argentinian model Nicolas Ripoll. Shot by the internationally renowned photographer Giampaolo Sgura. This season connects the Italian house with the creative duo Magnus Berger and Tenzin Wild for the creative direction of the campaign, styling by George Cortina and casting by Piergiorgio Del Moro. The result is timeless - a smooth evolution of Furla’s black and white interpretation for AW2019, it features a background of soft, almost pale hues and essential styling, giving the centre stage to the products, which are elegant yet colourful and joyful.
The shots examine and translate the codes of Furla with its over 90 years of history and its unmistakably Italian DNA. The models’ effortless and fun attitude ensures a refreshingly unpretentious and naturally beautiful campaign. In the video Irina and Nicolas playfully explore brand keywords such as ‘Amore’, ‘Modernità’, ‘Eleganza’, ‘Design’, ‘Colore’ and of course ‘Italiana’, further accentuating Furla’s values and deeply Italian essence.
DIOR SS2020 Ready-To-Wear Advertising Campaign inspired by the harmony of nature.Through the lens of Brigitte Niedermair, models Selena Forrest and Ruth Bell embody the committed spirit of the Creative Director’s creations.
A veritable ode to gardens and the beauty of their diversity, this captivating, summery series of images showcases the codes of the collection, from tie-dye ensembles to reinterpretations of the Bar suit. Evoking treasures preserved in a herbarium, wild flowers are delicately embroidered onto looks, like a passionate manifesto to elegance à la Dior, punctuated with precious accessories with a couture spirit.
JW ANDERSON的廣企永帶點CULT的味道，2020春夏男裝和女裝系列宣傳廣告與品牌上季的廣告同出一轍，由著名攝影師和電影製作人Tyler Mitchell 拍攝，並由長期與Jonathan Anderson 合作的Benjamin Bruno 負責造型。宣傳廣告沿用部份上季宣傳廣告的模特兒，另再加入特別為此企劃於街頭選角的新面孔。憑藉Mitchell 的標誌性風格，令照片顯得年輕愜意，與JW Anderson 的風格完美契合。廣告主題由上季2019秋冬系列踩上高蹺的自由風格進化為今季坐在巨型三輪車，融入英國郊區作爲背景的寫照，去呈現另類的青春氣息的特質。
自由：成為你想成為的人，去你想去的地方，與你喜愛的朋友一起。Salvatore Ferragamo 2020春夏廣告大片，與攝影師Harley Weir再度攜手合作，彰顯與弘揚「自由」精神。多元化的模特陣容與Ferragamo創意總監Paul Andrew精緻而富有層次的系列產品相映成趣。設計系列通過不拘一格的創作風格傳達出隨性、自信、個性以及自由的審美理念。在一系列圖像和視頻中，溫度不斷上升，仲夏的熾熱之感撲面而來，友誼的喜悅和探索的激情在陽光的照耀之下更顯熱烈。拍攝選址在陽光明媚的野外風景區，讓模特們自由奔跑，感受夏季的火熱氛圍。穿上它們喜愛的服飾，要你和所愛之人和朋友們共度一個自由自在的精彩夏日時光。
倘若人生是一場充滿未知的感官及心理探險，那麼我們都是「遊牧者」。每一個人都擁有不同的命運、奔赴各自的終點，沿途邂逅其他人類並四處流浪，旅途所到之處的一點一滴譜寫出一天又一天屬於自己的故事。航行恰如其分地訴說著不同的人生故事：一艘古老的帆船就仿如一件代代相傳的家傳之寶，細膩地述說著歷史、傳統以及冒險奇遇。ETRO 202春夏廣企「遊牧人生」故事也不例外，一群美麗而充滿個性的「流浪的遊牧者」，包括Lauren Hutton、Karen Elson、James Turlington、Alton Mason、Ugbad Abdi、孫菲菲、Lexi Boling、Mark Vanderloo及Abby Champion，被一顆小小的佩斯里花紋牽引在一起，齊聚海濱，去幻想得到的優美。廣告大片由攝影師Cass Bird操刀，在紐約市曼哈頓區拍攝，他們在白色幕布前及自然光線下，隨後揚帆航向未知的遠方。旅程本身的意義遠遠大於其終點，重點在於探索前所未見的風景或文化，追尋自我與文化的自由。我們都是人類，我們都是「遊牧者」，游牧旅途的盡頭，我們終將美麗地蛻變。
Aleem Yusuf Haute Couture SS2020 Obession Collection is like a rose, ‘Obsession’ explores the layers of love, individuality and beauty as well as their transparent fragility.
‘Obsession’ seeks to explore the complexity of these layers.
With further inspiration from the feminine form, ‘Obsession’ ultimately captures a woman’s innate sensual, delicate essence with layers of sheer contrasts revealing her inner strength and beauty.
‘Obsession’ also showcases the traditions of couture – the cut and drape of exquisite fabric, age-old techniques and attention to detail.
Couture, like a rose, can be beautiful, fierce and fragile. It deserves our utmost respect.
No matter what season or time of year or location, Aleem Yusuf shows always begin with a homage to Melbourne.
To be more precise, with a homage to Melbourne black – a beautiful colour worn by Melburnians in all seasons.
And so it is only appropriate that we honour this warm, deep, nurturing shade of black to introduce the ‘Obsession’ collection.
This first gown will also hint at what is about to unfold as we welcome you to our ‘Obsession’.