The best medicine for hysterical times is historical context. So this season Jeremy Scott went back to the Nineties - the 1490’s and stared deep into the Falò delle vanità (Bonfire of The Vanities) that befell the beautiful people of Florence.
On the night of Mardi Gras in 1497 a mob of puritanical Dominicans stormed the city, smashing and bashing objects of beauty and objects to create beauty that they decreed might lead unto evil.
Mirrors, musical instruments, manuscripts, works of art and decoration and clothing -beautiful, life-enhancing, liberating clothing were all put to flame. It was a declaration of small-minded, fear-driven war against the Renaissance virtues of self-expression and intellectual stimulation. Ultimately, of course, they lost: the Renaissance, like the Enlightenment it prefigured, help shape the modern world.
From anguish and ashes something new always rises. This season, Moschino collection by Jeremy Scott - hardcore glamour for a hard, hard world was presented in the post-apocalyptic wreck of a once-pristine, now-traumatised palazzo. It’s been purged and pummelled by change and what’s left in the aftermath is shattered and still smoking from the impact.
Dresses incorporate the splintered shards of smashed gilded mirrors, or have been skewered by a grand chandelier made with crystals from Swarovski that’s crashed down from the ceiling above. Another is bedecked with the stringy innards or a brutalised grand piano. In a technical first, several super-special dresses waft trails of smoke as they come down the layered carpet runway beneath their charred skirts and crinolines are hidden integrated smoke machines. It’s apocalypse wow.
No piece of outerwear carries with it the attitude of creative resilience to match the Perfecto. Ever since Marlon Brando wore it in The Wild One this jacket has been emblematic of youth-charged cultural revolt - creative uprising. Thus Moschino has long adored the biker, and this season that love reaches new heights as Scott grafts and splices its disassembled elements into a collection of super-tough evening
wear: couture It collides with girl gang grit.
There are skull and crossbones emblems and chains deployed as integrated skeletons: because deathliness becomes her. Smoke curls into the atmosphere of this season’s Buy Now Wear Now capsule too: consume for instant gratification.
Cigarette carton evening bags, matchbook clutch bags, pack of 20 iPhone cases and burnt-print Moschino logo T-shirts represent a dangerously addictive array of temptation.
Paul Hanlon at Julian Watson Agency
Tom Pecheux and the M·A·C PRO team
Carlyne Cerf De Dudzeele
Crystals from Swarovski
Salvatore Ferragamo AW2016/17 Men Collection presents the finest codes and traditions of masculine dressing, forming a masterfully-tailored blank canvas upon which a rich tapestry of fabrics, colors, motifs, textures and volumes is applied in doing so, creating something new and unexpected, fresh and vibrant.
The resulting collection offers a luxurious collision of worlds, expressing the intricacies and idiosyncrasies of the modern man. A pair of Andy Warhol’s paint-splattered, classic Ferragamo Oxfords heralded the starting point for creative director Massimiliano Giornetti.
The shoes’ mix of formality and relaxed artistry became a metaphor and mission statement for a collection that transforms the classic menswear wardrobe into a platform for character, emotion and experience.
Paradox and contradiction is key: ‘perfect’ matches are avoided; clashes embraced. Sharply tailored single and double-breasted suits in finest British mohair and Italian wool are presented in herringbone, houndstooth and Prince of Wales checks, providing a monochrome framing within which to showcase cashmere knitwear, silk shirts and scarves in a kaleidoscopic explosion of color and printed patterns.
Classic men’s outerwear explores further juxtapositions. Heritage and modernity, geometric and the freeform, sharpness and softness all interact to create a new sartorial language.
The bomber jacket is reconfigured with a patchwork of rich shearling and ultra-modern Japanese nylon, or woven in black-and-white trompe l’oeil Jacquard motifs; the winter Macintosh is presented in pure white; shearling collars bring layered volume to overcoats and tan leather flying jackets; indeed, duality becomes literal within a reversible cotton and mohair parka.
The precision of the paint-dripped Oxfords presented in leather or suede, some inner-lined with colored shearling, or extended into ankle boots is offset by the softness of canvas, suede or shearling, holdall bags, which in a wink to the utilitarian needs of the masculine wardrobe, also transform into backpacks. The collection was designed to be assembled, deconstructed and personalized according to each man’s individual identity, personality, lifestyle, needs and desires celebrating nuance as a statement of freedom from the increasingly homogenous world in which we live.
Emporio Armani AW2016/17 New Pop Womenswear Collection inspiration came from the current revolution: classic style and digital designs with today's seduction: strength and determination.
The Emporio Armani woman chooses a sharp, powerful language.
On a black background more often than on a white one, a visual explosion of digital signs and designs, including a sectioned smile, and multi-coloured ‘scratches’.
Clean lines and clear shapes. Silhouetted, rounded shoulders for high-tech heroines.
Short jumpsuits with short trousers that look like skirts, slim trousers, and mini-but-not-micro skirts.
Natural materials are transformed by innovative processes. Sleek shoes with covered heels add feminine flair and lengthen the leg.
Sparkle-galore lends a three-dimensional touch to evening wear.
A sharply-cut wool broadcloth coat with a sequined plastron speaks of Armani's whole history – his signature blend of masculine and feminine.