HACKETT LONDON @ SS2014 British Hackett Mayfair Collection

HACKETT LONDON SS2014 British Hackett Mayfair Collection inspired by Terry O’Neill’s black and white menswear portraits of the 1960s are a major influence. The candid photographs of the male glitterati of the time – Frank Sinatra, Michael Caine and Sean Connery, have proved to be timeless and classic menswear images. The collection has been expanded to create a 24/7 look, yet still retaining the formal aesthetic throughout. The introduction of casual elements, such as knitwear, allows for a more comprehensive wardrobe, while still keeping the strong, formal Mayfair look.

The casual elements of the collection have no logos, standing out purely on the quality of fabrication and finish.  Using the best British and Italian fabrics, silk/wool mixes offer options for different climates and temperatures. New polo shirts with fully fashioned collars and the introduction of knitwear expand the collection. The finest 14-gauge silk/cashmere mixes allow for layering, while cotton/silk knits in plain or stripey colourways offer a cooling knitwear option. Suits are lightweight, reflecting the different climates and seasons that the Hackett man may find himself in. Deconstructed, the shoulder is soft with no shoulder pad. The zero gravity approach is carried over into half or unlined jackets. Shapes are single or double-breasted in a base colour palette of dark grey or navy with a hint of brown. Highlight colours come in soft pastel shades of green, yellow and pink.

The Prince’s Trust “Prince of Wales Check” collaboration continues, but with more colour and casual elements items such as blousons and blazers. The special,-made Fox Brothers check has been over-dyed with green, yellow and electric blue. A Travel Capsule Collection has been introduced featuring special crease-free fibres, and fabrics have been used to create a collection perfect for travelling in style. Additional accessories complement the collection and include travel blankets, slippers and eye-masks.

<Art College> Inspired by the foundation of the Royal College of Art 150 years ago, Hackett takes a colourful collegiate look at menswear this season. Inspired by past Royal College of Art alumni, such as David Hockney, the collection is a quirky mix and plays with bold colour and pattern. The main base is a rich navy blue with primary colours of yellow, green and red used as accents. Sweaters and polo-shirts are inspired by the blues of the Oxford and Cambridge rowing teams. Items are designed to be layered in a silhouette that is still slim and fitted. Polo-shirts, rugby tops and shawl-collared sweaters feature dyed and printed yarns. Cotton/cashmere mixes in fine gauges allow for layering and different temperatures, while soft striped shirts continue the play with colour and pattern.

<The Yorkshire Paintings> A natural progression from Art College, the focus turns to David Hockney’s artworks. Inspired by his recent Yorkshire landscapes, exhibited last year at the Royal Academy of Arts in London, the huge formats and strong primary colours ramp up the colour spectrum and intensity for this collection. The explosion of colour, whether washed out or over-dyed, is on a grounding of white and navy. This collection is a master class in Hockney’s way of putting together different colours and patterns and the contrasting use of texture. The collection features wax coated nylon, linen/cotton, cotton/silk mixes in over-dyed cottons and chambrays. Washed out linens with hints of graphic patterns in striped knitted ties add the quirky element.

The collection has a formal side, but with much more pure colour. Colourful checks give the Hackett man a new version of how to look at colour proportion and pattern. Details include different coloured buttons on blazers and colour pops on accessories and detailing. Cut and sewn pieces are especially colourful. Washed out piques and colour blocking rugbys complement sweaters with Donegal yarns. Colours are heather tones of yellow and pink. Treatments and processes such as weaving, knitting, washed and bleaching give different effects, which should overall feel naturally sun-faded.

<The Artist’s Atelier> Inspired by Lucian Freud’s studio and his meticulous attention to detail, this collection is a break from colour. This should be looked at like a collection palate cleanser; a refreshing dose of neutrals. The cleansing colour palette of white and beige with hints of sky blue and light pink is a departure from the bold colour of the previous two deliveries. This allows detail to become more important and a growing interest in how things get mixed together. Fine-striped seersuckers come in shirts, blazers and shorts on bases of oatmeal and taupes.