COS @ AW2013 Collection

COS AW2013 collection is about precision silhouettes and cocooning shapes at the heart as the dramatic scale of nature inspires both cut and cloth for the upcoming season. The minimalist construction of tailoring is at the forefront, as are textured fabrics, while the mineral greys of mountains and muted shades of the beach in winter pale sand, sea green are matched with the black and midnight blue of night-time. The result is a collection that’s both crisp and comforting, with ingenious designs to optimise function and style.

  A new sharp shoulder provides definition to a sculptured coat in heavy wool, which has a high waist to feminise the tailoring lines. The shoulder appears often in the collection, such as on a wool blazer with cut-out notches at the side hem, echoed by the front zip at the ankle on slim-fit trousers. The high waist also continues through the pieces, such as on a sleeveless wool top with peplum, clean on the front with folds in its open sides.

A cocooning shoulder is created when a brushed wool high-waisted top is cut with kimono sleeves, worn over a cotton poplin poloneck and with a pencil skirt to just below the knee. Further drama is created from white cotton poplin shirts cut with exaggerated volume in the back, heightened when worn under a black wool crepe top with similar volume, and matched with the soft straight-cut leather trousers.

New proportions are presented by a wide collar coat in a wool melange of rich rustic colours, while a wool denim deep-V dress offers a younger take when worn over a white cotton poplin shirt-dress, and night-time is greeted by a tailored asymmetric dress in high sheen midnight blue wool twill, worn over wool silk straight cut trousers. For men, tailoring is at its most minimal, with fitted technical wool blazers with the collars and lapels removed, as well as concealed buttons, for the cleanest possible lines, worn over a cotton shirt with its collar sewn into place. Meanwhile a grey bonded wool blazer takes its shape from its fabric, with no structure in the shoulder, a rounded effect echoed by a boiled wool melange sculpted jumper.

A new long silhouette is offered in tailored wool melton coat with lengthened lean lapels, a silhouette echoed by a long sleeveless hooded coat that’s like a modern update of the duffel, worn over a cotton poplin shirt with a collar with a membrane coating to add shine. Meanwhile volume appears in the back of a waist-length jacket in technical cloth, its hood offering a cocoon of protection. Accessories for women come in rich chocolate brown, with a sharp-heeled high pump, or a leather brogue devoid of any detailing or seams, as well as a folded leather clutch that also opens out to be a shopper, and a wide leather belt with a covered buckle. For men, a Derby shoe comes with a rounded toe and a white trim highlighting the sole, while gloves are made from navy wool matched with black leather, and a city bag comes in black wool with leather.