SONIA RYKIEL @ FW2014/15 Collection

SONIA RYKIEL FW2014/15 Collection  is an unstructured informality runs throughout the collection, an elegance that allows the body to move unhindered. Yet while they may appear simple and straightforward at first glance, many of the pieces offer unexpected moments of exposure, revealing what lies beneath as the wearer moves. This is not an exercise in dressing for the entertainment of others, however. This is dressing for the satisfaction of the wearer. The most literal manifestation of this self-absorption comes in the use of ‘moi’ as a repeated graphic on skirts and sweaters.

 Softly structured, flexible and versatile. Nonchalant, lean, essential and playful. Wrapped, knotted or simply thrown on.The rose is another recurrent motif, and not only as a repeat pattern in the proliferation of knit Jacquards: the fabric have the plush, pliant texture of rose petals. Mongolian fur, for example, has been relaxed to give it a feathery pile, its wildness cultivated but still bestial, tactile and sensuous.

Subtly bi-colored tailoring under a plushy cowl neck jumper or a punto de Milano knit coat over a silk mousseline evening gown. Proportions either generous or shrunken, on a base of cropped golfing or baggy masculine trousers. Exposed legs always sheathed in black tights. Technical and versatile knits: wool overcoat, playful intarsias, text-speak message sweaters to ingenuous accessories, a poncho scarf or ‘demi-pull.

Relaxed, slouchy dressing in materials including cotton velvet jacquard and double face jersey. Dresses are conceived as abstractions of an unfolding bloom. Sober and classic tones of camel, forest green and navy are jolted out of their classicism by bursts of white, acid yellow and lavender.

But overall, the collection’s anti-exhibitionism brings us to an acceptance that, for all the sociological meanings we might invest them with, clothes are just those everyday things we wear. As Gertrude Stein said, ‘A rose is a rose is a rose.’ A sober palette of black, heathered grays, cream and camel contrasted by flash colors of pink and red. A rakish and laid-back attitude.

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