LANVIN Pre Fall 2015 Menswear Collection is a wardrobe when men can pick and choose according to their needs and desires. And every piece here enjoys a common denominator: Lucas Ossendrijver’s desire, to help men to affirm themselves better, to find fulfilment in a look that is their own, whilst always remaining modern. The most contemporary spirit always feeds on the past. And at Lanvin the history of men’s tailoring goes back a long way – this French fashion house launched its made-to-measure department in 1926. It is this absolute mastery of technique that distils through the 2-button jackets in honeycomb wool, Prince of Wales check or hound’s tooth flannel. The clothes are indeed superbly made but there is no hint here of soporific classicism. A grey jacket is worn over a lambskin short jacket, club stripes printed on black satin give a look of luxurious pyjama elegance, which one could wear out in the street.
To liven up the men’s wardrobe Lucas Ossendrijver has drawn from extensive know-how and allows himself every freedom. Firstly, the freedom to have fun with proportions. The double-breasted ecru jacket is very tight but is worn with oversize trousers in the same colour. Elsewhere another pair of oversize trousers in striped wool is worn with a wine-coloured leather biker jacket. The only rule? Men must be allowed freedom of movement.
The other game, because this is a game, is to cross over between worlds. Within the Lanvin world, marked by couture, nestle technical fabrics or outfits borrowed from a more utilitarian life: zip-fastened parka coats in wine-coloured wool felt and laminated shearling, short jackets in blue and grey check.
A grey sweater with lambskin insets or a pearl grey polo shirt bear witness to Lucas Ossendrijver’s attachment to the sportswear culture, a love demonstrated over several seasons. He adds nobility to this look and, with singular talent, goes as far as using it for his evening trousers, as flowing and comfortable as tracksuit pants, or the two-colour shirts (coral and black, blue and black) that seem to have been inspired by the colour ranges of a sports top. The Lanvin Man is full of good humour, which is nothing less than the very first elegance. Of his work Lucas Ossendrijver says “It’s not just a matter of looks, textures, fabrics or colours. It’s above all a matter of pleasure.” Faced with this offer it’s the man who makes his own choice, giving birth to something better than fashion - his own style.