DAKS SS2015 Men's Collection is breaking all the rules above all, its own. Creative Director Filippo Scuffi has decided that the brand is mature enough to embark on a new creative and stylistic journey. The new collection is inspired by Deconstructivism. Both the collection and the show revolve around the etymological core meaning of this word as well as the way of thinking it represents.
There is a vaguely anarchic and seemingly irrational flavour to everything: from the choice of location, to the backdrop, to the actual course of the catwalk, to the colour and fabric combinations, right down to the casting, where models of various ages and body types have been used, representing the melting pot of cultures that has always marked London.
It's an aesthetic imbalance, an in praise of error, that finds its own new and precise order as a result of its planning and organisation. This is not a revolution that is an end in itself but one that looks to create new rules and a new contemporary aesthetic vision for a brand with historic roots.
This is a collection under the banner of cotton and silk which, together with leather and hints of satinized plastic fibre, displays a modern miscellany of fabrics that until recently seemed most unlikely. The absence of the House Check lavishly honoured in previous collections is no accident but rather a definite choice, showing that DAKS knows how to look beyond, above all and beyond itself.
There are still references to the classic style, but with its own twist. The double-breasted jackets that have always represented the class English look are certainly there, but some of them close on one side with a buckle formed by a double D, to represent the new element of brand styling.
More than ever it is the knitwear that provides the exact reflection of the mood for this season and the graphic hypertype that takes them right back to the theme of the collection, with signs and colours from deconstructivist paintings themselves.