Chloé Pre Fall 2015 is grounded in an exploration of artisanal textures and sartorial languor, the collection divines a path through elements of Orientalism and autumnal opulence - mixing slim tailoring with embellished separates and moments of elegant flou. A woodland palette balances both rich and muted tones; as a tooled leather aviator jacket, felt wool duffel and Mongolian goatskin coat are tinted deep shades of chocolate, Bordeaux and forest green.
The key silhouette is a flat-front trouser, grazing the hip and lined with antiqued buttons they pool to the floor in wool crepe or a dandy fil coupé check. Flaring over topstitched mules, they channel a dynamic, androgynous sophistication.
Elsewhere, tiered silhouettes embrace fluidity in sinuous curves, from fluted poet sleeves and a belted miniskirt in longhair pony to the dense layering of capes and ponchos in reverse shearling or tapestry jacquards. Ruched shirts and roll neck blouses float in shades of white, ivory, powder blue, and peach silk, finished with flyaway neckties, a ruffled placket or delicate jour échelle ladder edging. Enveloping knits are enriched with heather grey cashmere or the subtle lustre of navy ribbed velvet.
Wide-lapel blazers shot with lurex or cut in soft, confetti tweed are paired with Bermuda shorts or the season’s flared trouser. For evening, slashed column gowns fall to the floor in streaks of metallic stars, stain glass paisley or the spiral of Art Nouveau florals capturing the wild spirit of the season’s bohemian muse paired with a fragile elegance.
The Pre Fall 2015 collection is accented by the slim, rounded shape of the ‘Georgia’ saddlebag and the ornate ‘Goldie’ with panels of suede, ostrich and longhair ponyskin, complemented by the Cubist patchwork of cuissards or calf boots in multi-coloured suede. Returning from the Spring 2015 runway, the ‘Faye’ accordion satchel is updated in the season’s harmony of deep jewel tones and warm textures.
“We were looking at the glam rock of David Bowie and Marc Bolan mixed with the softer side of Kate Bush,” said Clare Waight Keller, of her inspiration for the Chloé Pre Fall 2015 collection. “Kate came from a dreamy countryside idyll to the grunge of the city but always kicked around in her brothers’ coats and leather jackets.”
Photographed amongst the bucolic disrepair of the Chateau de Beauregard in the Perche region of Lower Normandy, the season’s dream-like imagery tells an evocative tale of the modern Chloé girl where the verve of folkloric nostalgia meets an urban attitude.
“It is a mix between the very boyish against an ultra-romantic femininity,” explains Clare, “the former comes through in the tougher silhouette of the blousons and low, wide trousers, the latter from the delicate prints in diaphanous fabrics.”