M MISSONI Pre Fall 2015 collection is about girls go scouting. From campus to camping with the signature urban mood and colorful contemporary sense of glam along with shapes, colors and patterns spark clear references to the 1970s. The famous movement marking the age towards freedom. A fresh rethinking of all these influences, in union with material mixers, treatments & finishes, translates into a collection that speaks the language of the twentieth century - free & easy spirit with an edgy seductive twist. The shapes are simple and straightforward, for a totally today take on a trend concept that continues to influence from over 40 years ago. Variations on the T-shirt or polo theme with bold collar and button closure, often color-contrast mode that dominate in the category of tops. The tank may morph into a vest, to sport over a shirt. Mini dresses follow a basic path, flaring towards the bottom. Precise trapeze skirts are mini, at once pertly & properly, as are shorts, all with a keen use of snaps and patch pockets. Pleats play an indispensable role in the skirts, yet mostly in the new version of jumpers and shirtwaists. As for outdoor clothing, all time classic - the duffel coat, poncho caban/parka, fitted coat in bourgeois-chic style complete with martingale that find a modern day definition.
The color are warm and intense, verging on bright. The palette includes lots of natural hues, from Tobacco to Tan, forest green and khaki dark preppy blue with a lovely glint thanks to lurex spraying fall foliage red and red orange saffron yellow; Tibetan yellow bordering on orange eternal, inevitable black and white. A mute shade of gold, with hints of sandy beige. Patterns in knit, jacquard and print form talk about the 70's. Graphic images highlights the elementary geometric shapes always nearly intersecting somehow.
The material are thick and chunky, light and supple in perfect sync with M Missoni's DNA. Chenille comes promptly to the forefront in a multiplicity of contexts, from fine yarn traversing items creating ripple surfaces, to strong presence giving full structure to a dress, detail to the collar or belt, all the way to fashion trim making for the smartest of edging, just as rib knits do in connection with leather. Adding to the endless & timeless expressions of knit fabric, the collection features cotton poplin, Crepe de Chine, velvet and basketwave textures. Also recurring are elements such as tweed and former favorites such Chine.
The effects all inclusive and dominant or subtle and secondary. This aspect emerges in the starry night blue of the long slinky open-back dress with chenille detailing and in the severity elegance of the short black shirtwaist with white cuffs & Peter Pan collar a la Catherine Denevue in Belle de Jour. Also in the sheer neck inserts or vertical assents alternating with chenille on dresses and blouses and in the chromatic/material contrasts characterizing both the Basque of semi-swingy skirts and the round collar f jumpers. Lastly, there's the Trompe-L'Oeil effect of the novel dress mimicking a skirt & shirt outfit.