VALENTINO Pre Fall 2015 Collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli interpret the escapist spirit of the bohemian culture, blending it with Couture expertise to redesign the Maison’s distinctive iconography. They are inspired by women such as Celia Birtwell, Gloria Vanderbilt, and Giosetta Fioroni who, while different, are known for their instinctive choices, highly imaginative idiosyncrasies, and their delight in bringing art into everyday life and, as a result, defining their own aesthetic. New approaches and new lifestyles: following the ideal thread of a visual patchwork that blends worlds and references in a concept of complex simplicity, the Creative Directors subtly send a very modern message of lightness, peace and harmony.
Individualism, romanticism and freedom from conventions. The Valentino world becomes the ambiance of a creative community in which each woman finds her own path and can truly be herself. Under the aegis of Botticelli’s Primavera interpreted through the expressive design of Celia Birtwell - an exclusive partnership resulting in prints, intarsia and embellishments - the collection has an impalpable mood. It revives the spirit, seduces the eye, intrigues the touch, and celebrates the power of metissage.
The basic concept is simple: an elegant, precise, sleek vertical silhouette that is unmistakably Valentino. Surfaces are textured, acquiring vitality and substance. Heart motifs designed by Giosetta Fioroni capture the passionate essence of red, while micro-brocade patterns create tactile expanses of mimosas, lilies-of-the-valley, and four-leaf clovers. Clothes become an artist’s canvas on which exquisite intarsia form scenes and landscapes. Harmony is expressed through prints seeking cosmic conjunctions and motifs of astral inspiration.
The V that Valentino used in 1968 as a logo, pattern and silhouette becomes a graphic element that is created by metal studs and leaves its mark on denim, sportswear and double cashmere, linking past and present. Boho couture spirit is interpreted through modern, well-balanced contrasts of shapes and colors, with a naïf pop feel for color blocking. The mirror-embellished coat is worn over jeans and romantic silk georgette blouses peek out from under irreprehensible blue blazers. Periods and styles are blended in a concept that is thoroughly contemporary, because there is no present without a past. Bringing the unique perspective of artists with great sentiment to the intricate world of Valentino style, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli renew the sense of a vision that always focuses on the woman with her inalienable individuality.
A camouflage print becomes the background for pacifist slogans, while butterflies appear in brocade or nocturnal nuances on denim. Fitted suede and ponyhair leather coats are paired up with sweater or baby doll dresses, creating decadent, languid images accentuated by intarsia-striped boots and sandals as delicate as nighttime flowers.
Accessories are a defining element that reinforces and expresses the values and messages of the Valentino Maison. The collection is conceived as a repertoire in continuous evolution: contemporary icons elements of a precise, modern language are gradually joined by others, thus creating an alluring, multifaceted range.
The bohemian mood of Fall 2015 influences accessories characterized by amorous patterns, pacifist slogans, and a distinct texture. The message is direct yet subtle: dreams and divertissement infiltrate everyday life and enhance it. Botticelli’s Primavera interpreted by Celia Birtwell is turned into an embellishment on small bags, while flowers blossom on light sandals with impalpable transparency. The Amour pattern designed by Giosetta Fioroni traces a pulsing red line on bags, clutches, pumps and sandals, and it turns into a camouflage motif on sneakers and appears on brocade boots. Even clutches are shaped like hearts.
Cosmogonic motifs define dreamy moods on plexiglas minaudiere bags, on the transparent heels of pumps, and as embellishments on clutches. The iconographic V that Valentino used for the first time as a logo and graphic element in 1968 is renewed and formed by metal studs on shoulder bags, top handle bags and totes.
Brocade or embroidered butterflies return in nocturnal shades of blue, while the Valentino camouflage print is used as the background for pacifist slogans that underline the collection’s message of harmony. Artisan craftsmanship is a salient feature, where the human touch creates perfect imperfection.
Leather patchwork forms stripes in twelve colors on boots and large intarsia on bags. Ponyhair leather and suede are used together on hobo bags with organic allure. Exact and precise, imperceptible harnesses evoke an imperative vision of love on pretty pumps and small bags.
The inevitable icons of the new Valentino collection follow the season’s moods and evolve. Rockstud comes in a color block version that contrasts with black, while knotted fringe and braids are boho touches. Camera cases in logo fabric complete this picture of metissage and myriad influences.