Paul Smith SS2014 Men Collection themed The British Collection using cloth made exclusively in collaboration with Yorkshire Mill, Joseph H Clissold. Every season in The British Collection traditional fabrics are updated; the pin-dot, the herringbone, the pinstripe, the overcheck. Pioneering techniques in fabric construction enable these perennial classics to be reimagined; the traditional overcheck is engineered into the weave to play with scale; the pinstripe encapsulates the vibrant colour synonymous with Paul Smith but with subtlety and a deft touch; and the herringbone is jacquarded across the full repeat of the cloth to hint at an icon of British design.
The way these fabrics are cut on the body creates a trompe l'oeil effect intended to emphasise the physique through tricks of scale and colour. Throughout, the collection is lined in champagne and ivory and displays the selvedge edge of the fabric to marry the history of Clissold characteristically by Paul Smith in its use as a back brace.
Details have taken inspiration from conventional bespoke construction with elements of modernity added through pops of colour in under collar meltons and unique trims. The making of a luxury suit is in the fabric and in this collection every stitch that's made celebrates the inherent beauty of the cloth.
Within the collection there are two fits of suit, the slim fit is named 'The Kensington', whilst the more tailored is named 'The Byard', after the Nottingham street where Paul's first shop was located. Both the Byard and Kensington are constructed as half canvas with floating chest pieces and pad-stitch lapels.
'Every season we make several men's collections' Paul explains, 'the calwalk collection which is shown in Paris twice a year, the PS by Paul Smith collection, Paul Smith Jeans and Paul Smith London. The British Collection, a section within the London line, uses cloth made by a Yorkshire mill established in 1910 called 'Clissold'. At Clissold they're able to weave bespoke fabrics for Paul Smith designed uniquely in house with a versatility that many other mills don't have the ability to do. The construction of our suits always mixes tradition and modernity and with Clissold we're able to combine unique cloths with contemporary cut.'
Taking place from Sunday 16th to Tuesday 18th June, London Collections: Men debuted the SS2014 men's collections from some of the world's most established fashion houses as well as the industry's most exciting emerging designers.
With the essence of British tailoring stitched into Paul Smith and woven into the cloth of every suit, LC:M offers the perfect opportunity to present the SS2014 British Collection.