In his AW2016 collection, Ilan Chetrite continues to explore men’s fashion through the buzz of the city and anarchical urban structures - places that were drained of romance by the reality of the industrial era. The opening act of the collection broadly draws on 1980s Berlin. There is an element of toughness to the cut and inspiration of the pieces.
The denim jacket with black topstitching is broadly retrofitted in black suede. Leather - matt or glossy is fashioned into hotwork jackets in two lengths. Roll-neck jumpers in yellow, ochre and cream offer a counterpoint to the sombre looks and materials in this first ensemble.
A series of silk shirts, plain or swathed in a chain print announces the next act of the collection. The shirts are worn effortlessly, almost instinctively. Tapered trousers are cut off at the ankle with a generous hem. Widesoled black leather shoes add verve to the look.
The final act is a f lourish of tailoring, a signature of the brand. Suits feature slightly wider collars and trousers that break on boots. The tailored ensembles are complemented by black-and-white check motifs on short mohair knits and double-breasted buttonless suit jackets. The Parisian fashion house concludes its winter offerings with leather trousers which are paired with a series of long cashmere coats in a variety of colours, a plush nod to seventies chic that pokes through like a f lower among concrete slabs.