M MISSONI AW2016/17 Collection sets the tone this season is a distinctly British spirit, in both classic severity-elegance and equally typical fun, fresh & quirky modes. All the same, in perfect sync with its bright, upbeat, contemporary DNA, M Missoni shows a clear preference for the latter, finding inspiration in the beat mood of fifty years back yet also in the rave parties of modern times.
Every reference fits easily into a collection that, although heterogeneous as to ideas & influences, is wholly coherent thanks to one outstanding and nigh-omnipresent leitmotif: a golden knit marking, with varying degrees of importance, all the different shapes, colors and materials for AW2016/17.
The sense of severity comes through smoothly in the definition of forms. skirts are a line, while jackets & co. including short capes vaguely à la queen elizabeth on vacation at balmoral castle feature a trapezoid shape or, in alternative, a straight sartorial cut. similarly, dresses, blouses and jumpers bordering on an English nanny style appear structurally austere of design. By contrast, pants and long plissé knit skirts may make a softly sinuous or swingy statement. there are also small flirty ruffles along the neckline or armholes of crepe shirts and dresses, in a quiet nod to young lady di.
On the horizon of materials, the golden knit concept comes to the fore in a multiplicity of enticing ways: as sweaters, blazers and skirts with a lightweight cotton lining for extra softness or in tandem with other fabrics for the creation of bibs, inserts, collars, yokes, even simple edgings (complete with button closure, for example, on the jersey blouse).
occasionally the glint of gold adds a special spark to prints, or becomes so strong as to give a phantasmagoric-psychedelic twist to the latest color mix; likewise, it may gloriously heighten the impact of a jacquard knit.
But there's more to this story, namely the season's many new entries: ultra pinwale corduroy, at times in print form; thick macramé lace for skirts and dresses; faux-vintage patent leather as edging or some other key element. Also part of the picture is a traditionally british feel for full textures, for luscious shetlands, for melton collars on tailored coats with color-contrast topstitching, for sturdy macintosh cotton accents on items such as the houndstooth wool coat with quilted back.
Then for more in the way of knit fabrics, there are sheer see-through effects and mesh stitchwork techniques, the brand's signature ripple motifs (they too with golden glints) plus chunky pawl patterns. finally, there's a stunning tweed, trompe-l'oeil mode.
While glossy gold ensures the genuine novelty factor, now black gives way to off-white in the role of chromatic thread of continuity, conciliating among one another an endless array of greens forest, cypress, fluo, mint poppy red and coral, midnight blue and muted navy, broom blossom yellow, soft lovely pink. not rarely do these hues meet & merge in tartan plaid, microcheck and for a true emblem of the M Missoni identity gorgeous bonbon-print form.