TOD's @ FW2014/15 Women Collection

TOD'S FW2014/15 Women's Ready-to-Wear Collection sees the second season of designs for the House by Alessandra Facchinetti. Called ‘Italian Set’, as it was for her first season at the helm, this collection shows Facchinetti further exploring the graphic, feminine possibilities of leather for clothing, working it to a high, waxy shine, almost as though it were lacquered. On other occasions, as when accentuating the pleats of a skirt, it can look as glossy as silk duchesse satin.

The aesthetic of ‘Italian Set’ is based on a combination of leather with jacquard, wool, mink or cashmere to create a timeless, luxurious, sophisticated style. As with all things Tod’s, there is a merging of past and future, which in this case results in a wardrobe for a modern urban existence. Perhaps most significantly, Alessandra Facchinetti’s vision for the Brand showcases how Made in Italy possesses a contemporary spirit, as well as being rooted in heritage and artisanal skill.

Forms are casual, with lowered pockets and soft proportions, even in the constructed garments. Patches and saddlery backs create a sense of craftsmanship, and jackets take centre stage: peacoats, cabans, bomber jackets, cagoules and double-breasted jackets all demonstrate a continuous dialogue between sportswear and couture. 

A military theme runs throughout, evident in the Montgomery duffle coats, capes, trench coats, half-belted cabans and uniform-style leather skirt. But the effect is decidedly elegant, rather than utilitarian.

Checks are applied to technical fabrics and also appear as jacquard in wool and silk. Checks feature in the stitching, in the mink, and also become openwork resembling a subtle Madras on the pony skin overcoat.

Carpet-style geometry also features in an important pattern, taking the form of an unusual all-over print on a midnight blue, ice or Bordeaux ground. Lozenge-form patterns suggest optical illusions, decorating bags as well as clothing, creating a virtual jacquard.

 Micro fur is employed to luxurious effect: elasticised two-tone mink cuffs, a long, thin fur scarf and a removable mink neck on a two-tone turtleneck. But there is toughness here too a rigid lacquered basque becomes a modern, non-constricting saddlery-inspired corset.

The collection is completed with a range of leather bracelets and distinctive hats.

The new Tod’s shoe collection for women places an emphasis on simplicity. The Mocassino is flat but ultra-feminine, with a new metal buckle. The New Boot apparently features a gaiter, as in a technical riding boot, but is in fact made from one piece of leather – a double layer of leather cut on the front by the line of the zip. This also comes as an ankle boot. Ballerinas have a reference to the iconic Gommino on the heel, in metal, while high-heels suggest futurist-style saddlery shapes. There is striking innovation here too: the College Illusion style combines an ankle boot and a moccasin to create a type of leather shoe/sock incredibly comfortable and modern.

Materials include ponyskin, which has a matt appearance, is extremely soft and does not show classic markings, split suede, and calfskin processed using the methods of furriers and screen printed to create a spotted black-and-white animal-skin effect. Throughout, there are experiments with shine from leather dyed with an elegant finish and chrome-tanned calfskin, to a metallic, translucent almost-mirror-effect achieved through the use of a sprayed laminate, and roll-glossed, grainy, puckered goatskin leather.

Colours range from the rainbow selection in which the Gommino is available, to metallic gold and silver and the more subdued and classic white, pink, burgundy, black, light and dark blue.

The bags in this season’s collection, while maintaining all the Brand’s hallmarks of tradition and quality, display the influence of modern sportswear and adopt design cues from Alessandra Facchinetti’s second ready-to-wear collection for Tod’s.

Colours range from the rainbow selection in which the Gommino is available, to metallic gold and silver and the more subdued and classic white, pink, burgundy, black, light and dark blue.

Carpet-style geometric patterns feature on the D-Cube models – lozenge-form designs suggesting optical illusions – while colour-block fur panels adorn the small D-Cube. Checks, also prominent in the clothing collection, appear as a recurring motif, either created from contrasting-coloured leather seams, or occurring as a pattern on the fur sides of the mini D-Cube.

The Tod’s Sellas Bag and D-Cube come in Carpet Couture form: designed in carpet fabric, which shows off the craftsmanship of maxi finishes.

The D-Cube is also available in the D-Cube Stories collection, a range of bags featuring the leather lozenge-jacquard, with check-pattern saddlery inlays and two-tone mink, thus interweaving many of the key elements of the season. While the striking Bauletto Military has a waxed finish, a saddle patch and stripes.