VALENTINO FW2015/16 Women Collection is sensuality and independence. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli capture the essence of the world of contemporary women, revealing its duality and portraying its changes and evolution.
From their modern perspective, the two creative directors recognize signs and portents of modernity in two unconventional people who experienced the singular destiny of being both artist and muse, the object of contemplation and the architect of epochal change: Emilie Louise Flöge and Celia Birtwell.
The first was Gustav Klimt’s companion and the subject of many of his paintings as well as the liberated couturier who freed dresses of whalebones and corsets and was a star of the bohemian life of the Vienna Secession.
The second, the wife of Ossie Clark and the muse of David Hockney, was an outstanding figure of Swinging London and is still the author of pictorial prints and creative images.
These two different women share a singular approach to life: they combine fragility and sensuality and give strength and depth to feminine grace.
The seductive mood of the collection vibrates behind distinct reserve. The body, barely touched by the clothes, is perceived in all of its quivering carnality.
A fluid, elongated, vertical silhouette is created with tunics and sheaths, impalpably traced by pleated chiffon robes and accentuated by high-waisted skirts.
The layering concept creates revealing coverage. Long coats are worn over pullovers that cover up lace dresses.
Light panels are layered to form pure, geometric constructions. Simplicity becomes a search for clarity in design through vibrant, clean raw-cut garments. Flowing elements evoke visions of transfigured exoticism.
Opulent sensuality is expressed through floral prints and butterfly motifs that are the result of the collaboration with Celia Birtwell and are given a luminous touch through raised metallic threads and binary contrasts of stripes, triangles and geometric shapes.
Duality pervades: light materials such as chiffon and composite lace contrast with heavy felt, while shades of gold, ivory, green, pale blue and pink blend in the palette dominated by absolute graphic black.
Ankle boots with zippers, pumps and sleek boots complete the look together with constructed shoulder bags and handbags embellished with monogram motifs and custom decorative elements.
This crystalline, multiform story captures the individual diversity of today’s woman and transforms it into sleek design.