PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND Pre-Fall 2015 Womenswear Collection marks the first collection of the brand's 200 year bicentennial celebrations. The company began as a manufacturer of hosiery and underwear and this has been referenced throughout Massimo Nicosia's collections, blurring the lines between knit and woven consistently returning to the brands heritage or knitwear as outerwear.
This collection explores the themes of flora fauna using fluid printed silks and embroidered techniques that capture the nature of the collection, bring specific attention to detail using gilded embroidery replicating Holyrood Palace door hinges. Detailed application of beetles and insects reflect the iridescent nature of the colour palette and fluidity of the woven fabrics used in his collection. This combined with the rustic rough elements of a felted cashmere mix show that inspiration is poignant taking exact reference from Scottish heritage sights and interior details. Prestonfield house peacocks can be seen throughout as an influence; as can a nod to the artist Jan Fabre's multidisciplinary technique, bringing embroidery to life through a ceiling of beetle wings.
The colour palette punctuates the collection with crisp optic white, pumice, chalk, shades of purple, cobalt green, teal, slate and black. Camel and pale grey complement the collection by capturing elements of nature. Dresses and shirts are adorned with thistle borders whilst embroidered lace and smocked chiffon are used to soften the silhouette giving it a gentle feminine outline.
Peplum shapes, layered fronts and the use of jacquard act as an exact opposite to the harder leather details given to some snaps and outerwear pieces, herringbone sequins have been used on scarfs and tights to embellish movement using the juxtaposition of matt and sheen. Massimo Nicosa has worked with architect Richard Beckett again to use 3D printing techniques allowing organized and organic textures to seamlessly combine use of 3D chainmail with cashmere knit act as a suitable media for knitwear creating precise soft lines.