PRADA @ FW2014/15 Women Collection

PRADA FW2014/15 Womenswear catwalk show can be considered ACT II of a theatrical performance that opened with the Prada Menswear FW2014/15 presentation. The catwalk set is once again an experimental stage.

The theme explored the German avant garde period of the 70s and 80s, referencing the political and cultural debate addressed by the north European intelligentsia in that period, and particularly the work of Pina Bausch and Rainer Werner Fassbinder.

The music, directed by Frédéric Sanchez, is a mix of electronic sounds alternating with traditional German tracks from the period, played live by a group of wind instruments and string quartet. The voice of Barbara Sukowa gives the set a truly unique feel.

The pieces present a mix of high "glamour" and "poorer" touches: the finishes are leather-embellished, there are no embroidered motifs and shearling is used as a decorative element. Oversize outerwear, inspired by a masculine and military touch and with ample shoulders, dominates the show. Jackets and coats are enriched by gold and silver leather profiles or by shearling edgings.

Lightweight dresses are defined by the graphic design of the contrasting leather trims. Prints, inspired by the 1970s and 1930s, are geometric and graphic, for some garments highly defined, while others are treated with a 'washed' effect as though hand-painted with a naive touch.

The overall feel of the collection is one of simplicity, on the surface low-key and stark, catching the eye with a colour palette of red, purple, yellow and ochre.

The shoes feature perforated steel heels resembling the industrial vibe of the times, which alternated with more feminine silver and gold versions.