Maison Margiela AW2016 Men Collection is finding the humanity and acknowledging the machine. The Maison Margiela ignites a pastiche of pragmatism underlined by brutal ennui, mingling modern defiance with the remnants of bygone grandeur.
Denouncing artificial purity, we question world-weary modes of the masculine wardrobe, jarring the finite expectations of a traditional garment. The keystone form of a replica duffel coat is interrupted; elevated in vented felt, reduced as a russet-coloured gilet, or deconstructed as both blouson and blazer.
MA-1 jackets are garment-dyed for an irregular patina of steel grey, ochre, and umber, whilst stonewashed overcoats are hand cut & shred. Full-canvas tailoring is cut in fine cashmere, chalk stripe and grey check wool, or shot through with white topstitch pleats.
Knitwear challenges convention, in warped tension rib tops and re-knit trousers brushed with resin. Cycle tops, leggings, or suspender shorts in second-skin lycra are zipped or overprinted with sunset ombré performance graphics. Metal-heeled buckle boots, nylon coats, and techno pants emulate an industrial romance. FRIEDE, FREUDE, EIERKUCHEN. There was a crowd rush at the Love Parade.