2015-06-29

PARMIGIANI @ Toric Tecnica Carpe


Founded in 1964 by the scultor and painter Edouard Mardel Sandoz, the Sandoz famiy foundation is intimately linked to the Parmigiani manufacture. This unique sculptor did not reserve his talent and sensitivity solely for his depictions of the human form. Animals were also some of his favourite subjects. Passionate about science and a lover of nature, he used a wide variety of materials, sculpting in both wood and stone and moulding clay to produce bronzes with the most sophisticated patinas. An intensity and a universality emanate from all of his works, even from the very smallest of these. The reliefs of the sculptures and the realism of the subjects are unique. His approach, used by no other artist, gently breathed life into the materials, encompassing a wide range of subjects. Through his infinitely delicate work, Sandoz captured the full power of nature.The Maison Parmigiani wished to create a vibrant homage to this exceptional artist. It has drawn on its own sources of inspiration to design and create a piece that combines exquisite craftsmanship and technical brilliance. This extraordinary timepiece includes four of the most sophisticated complications: a minute repeater, a chronograph, a tourbillon and a perpetual calendar. A spirit of innovation, the finest production quality and respect for tradition - Parmigiani and Edouard Marcel Sandoz share the same values. The expertise of the master watchmaker is augmented by the decoration, which reveals a variety of traditional craft techniques used to produce a composition of extraordinary vitality. They combine and coalesce to seduce and arose the emotions of the watch's lucky owner. The eye is instantly captivated by the beautiful aquatic scene. The talents of several craftsmen were required to bring it to life. It all begins with the engraver, who works, cuts and models the material to breathe life into the decoration and produce the texture required to reflect the light of the enamel in all directions. It is under his hand that the lines, curves, details, veins and scales appear. The fish and foliage seem to quiver. The enameller is next. He adds colour and delicately illuminates the subtle shades and transparencies present in nature. The deep, harmonious colours are obtained using "grand feu" enamel.This ornamental technique used on dials is the most difficult to apply, but also offers the best durability. The aquatic scene featured on the Tecnica "Les Carpes de Sandoz" is not painted. It is the result of several oxides applied to the dial. The dial is then fired several times in an oven at a temperature of between 800 and 900°C to reveal the pattern and colours. Each firing brings out the different layers, and the effects of depth gradually bring the dial to life by adding energy and relief. Only "grand feu" enamel can produce such refined and unalterable decoration. The golden carp are appliqués, and have been sculpted in tribute to Edouard Marcel Sandoz. With their brilliant scales and near-transparent fins, they almost leap from the dial. They slide through the graceful underwater foliage. The leaves are rendered in hyper-real fashion, with the intricately designed leaf veins capturing and gloriously diffusing the light. In keeping with the Haute Horlogerie tradition, special attention has also been paid to the back of the watch. The hinged double case-back is both engraved and enamelled. It features a stylised, geometric aquatic leaf pattern. Each line and vein on the leaves reflects the light, creating an illusion of depth. The blue and green match the colours of the dial, and the leaves feature three drops of green enamel, in contrast to the two drops on the adjacent blue background, in order to give the foliage a convex surface. The technique is a unique expression of the most accomplished expertise. The hand-worked white gold enhances the decoration with its shimmering accents. In the interest of complete harmony, the lugs and buckle also reiterate the dial's foliage pattern. Left in its natural state, without enamel, the gold reveals a patina which brings masculinity to the piece. Hidden beneath the decorative flora and fauna is a mechanical movement equipped with four complications that embody the essence of the watchmaker's art: a minute repeater, a tourbillon, a perpetual calendar and a chronograph. This exceptional movement features Haute Horlogerie finishes. All of the bridges are hand-bevelled. And for the ultimate touch of sophistication, they are engraved with decorative foliage reminiscent of the captivating scene found on the dial.

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