MARC JACOBS SS2015 collections inspiration comes from the army and surplus clothing, a familiar military palette, taken out of context and put into high fashion shapes, with couture techniques. Classic decorations reinterpreted in fresh ways, by changing scale and elevating materials. Utilitarian clothing was the starting point for the Marc Jacobs SS2015 collection. Shown against the backdrop of a large pink house, with a narration inspired by the John Smith 1976 short film ‘The Girl Chewing Gum,’ and using a neutral based color palette seen in classic army and surplus clothing, wool gabardine dresses were belted at the waist while long silk shantung shirt dresses featured front patch pockets and epaulettes highlighted with gold buttons.
Wool mélange suiting in military green and blue included wide leg pants paired with a fitted classic 4-pocket coat and belted cargo pants with a cropped 2-pocket jacket. Becoming more decorated as the show progressed, large patch pocket mini-skirts in duchess satin were belted with army shirting featuring guipure embroidery. Resin cabochons highlighted the hems and necklines of wool crepe jackets and cotton twill pleated dresses. Sleek jersey gowns with cut-out details were belted and presented in rich colors of blue and green, while short hopsack dresses had full skirts, heavily decorated with pockets, guipure and cabochons details.
The accessories are playing with classic shapes and luxurious materials, the shoes in the Spring 2015 collection included two key styles. Mary-Janes came in two heel heights,while flat slide sandals in color ranging from military green to deep blue were presented in silk twill and duchess satin. Playing on the utilitarian idea, cross body bags were a highlight with the Cadet and heavily decorated Trooper, presented in corresponding fabrics to their respective RTW looks.
Marc by Marc Jacobs is celebration of experimental and irreverent youth, inspired by rave subculture, the Ferus Gallery and the anti-establishment Los Angeles art movement of the 1980’s. DIY-culture; working with and re-inventing surrounding items, making them personal, thoughtful and unique. The energy and spirit of dance, infused with a bold and industrial mood that is also light and magical.
For Spring 2015, the Marc by Marc Jacobs collection explores hardcore idealism with industrial and utilitarian fabrics. Cropped cotton t-shirts are paired with pastel colored plastic skirts and stretch poplin trousers. Feminine slip dresses are shown in monochrome nylon taffeta while washed cotton canvas offers a military statement in a white dress and flight jacket. Sweatshirts are combined with ‘bubble wrap’tech organza and printed plastic to create unique patchwork dresses over House of Harlot rubber leggings in shiny black and nude. Fergus Purcell graphics are bold, using cult symbols –fine linear triangles, degradé bubbles, anti-establishment black & white noise, industrial slogans featured throughout the collection on t-shirts and oversized dresses.
The accessories continuing the use of utilitarian materials, leather and plastic are the focus for this season. Mimicking the look of rubber, dipped leather Chelsea boots in pastel colors provide an industrial edge. Completing the shoe offering for the runway, canvas folded over army boots are featured in black and military green. Graphic new handbag shape, the hanging' Round bag which made in soft leather, is presented in solid black and leche as well as multi-colored cloud print.