Off-White c/o Virgil Abloh™ collaborates with Moncler for an exclusive Menswear AW2016/17 special collection, aptly called, Moncler O. The collection Abloh has designed for Moncler is inspired by the fishermen of Northern seas. Styles include long jackets and puffer coats both with fixed or detachable hoods, waistcoats inspired by lifejackets, long and short Parkas that are completely unlined and with stitching reduced to the bare minimum. Anoraks with multiple pockets rework the classic waxed sailing jackets; they are either left unlined or are padded to suit sub-zero temperatures. Over-size trousers exist with an elasticized waistband and drawstrings made of MAC, a typical double waterproof cotton inspired by Britain’s nineteenth-century Navy uniforms. Finally, slightly retro matelot garments are presented in a heavy, pure wool crêpe and are scored by deep pleats and French-style pockets.
The materials used in the special collection are mainly rubberized and incorporate prints featuring stormy skies, drawing inspiration directly from Scandinavian and Northern American fishermen’s attire. The leitmotiv, an Abloh hallmark, are the diagonal stripes reoccurring throughout the collection. The result of this new Moncler venture blends street-wear style and technical elements while weaving together categories and materials in an unusual mix of aesthetic codes, giving rise to a look which is uniquely new.
A key element is the technological details and fabrics: glossy or opaque PVCs with a velvety hand, checkered nylon with a laminate finish on the reverse, heat-sealed polyurethane films, ultra-light cottons printed with exclusive patterns, waterproof tapes and zips, equipped with a pull that recalls the “easy zip pullers” of wetsuits. Some garments feature tapes and loops to right side of the breast, which can traditionally be found on Navy garments which were used to hold a survival torch. The Maison’s logo is ever-present in yellow silicone, which not only highlights the distinctly technical look shared by the garments in the collection, but also underscores its emblematic sense of belonging.