Emporio Armani SS2015 Avant-Garde men collection find the balance between experimentation and rigour typically associated with Emporio Armani has produced a markedly urban collection in which avant-garde architectural forms are transformed into the pure graphic language of line and colour.
Black moves to bright optical white and grey, made surprisingly fresh by the geometry of parallel, crossing and broken lines. Line is the leitmotif of the collection – sometimes shaded, or placed horizontally using special techniques increasing its consistency.
Pea coats, parkas, mackintoshes and little jackets with raglan sleeves are made of lighter, crunchier fabrics and feature white geometric motifs created through printing and laser cutting. Natural fabrics, such as wool, are treated and paired with cotton or silk, leather, or even printed ponyskin.
Seams disappear thanks to heat sealing, underlining cleanness of form. The suit is updated with small changes that revolutionise its line. The slim jacket has a single button for a low waistline and thin lapels and pagoda shoulders.
Trousers have little gathers, are slightly looser around the hips and are slim down towards the ankle. Shirts are given new life with graphic prints and unexpected shapes. Made of silk/cotton in various different weights, the shirt can take the loose form of a sweatshirt, recall a jacket with lapels, look like a soft T-shirt or have a zip and a big horizontal rubberised stripe in a contrasting colour right at the front.
Accessories mirror the spirit of the garments in the collection. Shoes have an athletic look clearly derived from sports footwear: lace-ups, slip-ons and ankle boots feature the characteristic rubber sole of active sportswear. Backpacks, which have become iconic Emporio Armani accessories, luggage and envelope bags feature graphics and detailing to match the outerwear in the collection.