Maison Margiela SS2015 Mens Collection looks upon the garments and questions them, enciphers them. Spontaneous and radical, a style manifesto ensues. Clothing is studious yet playful, reinterpreted & reworked. The allure is rendered undefinable, dismantled, purged. Classic suits, bonded linings, faded or nude tones. Trompe-l’oeil body suits cling like second skin, effacing the figure under the suit. Sartorial textures evaporate, disseminate. Loose knits, open edges, treated sponge, overdyed. Typical constructions hide under a monochrome cloak: shirts, jackets, coats in clumps of materials and colours are superimposed.
Traditional lines are disordered. Materials and volumes are deconstructed then replaced. Symmetry is displaced. Trousers and jackets are cut into strips and reassembled; shirts are divided and reunited by zips. University jackets are ripped apart, interchanged and sewn back together, revealing mismatched fabrics. Nude body suits appropriate embroidered university symbols.
Oversized trousers and graphic, airy trench coats are cut from two parachutes. Thoughts hang in the air like an extension of the garment. Fabrics and shapes contort. Collars are detached from their counterparts by transparent margins. Boots and trainers are torn apart and stuck back together.