LOEWE creative director Jonathan Anderson describes the house’s AW2017 menswear collection as a teenage fantasy of what it means to dress freely today. The modern dichotomy between post-industrial collage and total individuality creates a state of hysteria, evident in fully styled looks that are simultaneously constructed and broken down.
A black leather ensemble built around an apron polo shirt transports to an idealised factory where workers inject utility wear with a subversive bent and the excitable sensibility of revolt. Throughout, the result are clothes in which studied processes meet youthful anarchy and meticulous custom detailing, reflective of a contemporary exercise in arts and crafts.
Advanced technical experimentation and bold colour manifest in a double-breasted overcoat fully garment-dyed to produce powder-blue shearling, and in its rainbow iteration, made from a dozen vibrantly hued leather panels sewn together to dramatic effect. Multiple garments are signed with propaganda-inspired iconography including fictional newspaper and Past Present Future screenprints.
The idea of composition connects disparate methods and notions, evident in patching, mismatched and superimposed tartans, photographic elements and artfully layered appliqués.
Adventurous reinterpreting of menswear archetypes adorns a striped fisherman jumper with inventive tasselling and places a calfskin gun flap on a linen trench coat, while classic LOEWE items like fisherman trousers and the house’s signature asymmetric shirt are revisited with new treatments and fabrications.
As in previous seasons, LOEWE is documenting the collection in a limited-edition hardcover publication, art directed by M/M (Paris) and photographed by Jamie Hawkesworth at a Madrid electricity plant and at the 1970’s subterranean house-studio of visionary architect Fernando Higueras, also in the Spanish capital.