LOEWE SS2016 Men’s collection inspired by the all-inclusive visual landscape encountered on that trip to Japan, Jonathan Anderson set out to reinterpret the imaginary world of a Japanese animated action character, transposing it onto new, resolutely current clothes defined by a youthful spirit and a playful sense of escapism.
Colourful and eclectic, the bold scenario reflects an up-to-date pop sensibility and a vantage point of unbridled fantasy. Four 17th-century wooden doors found in Japan where brought to LOEWE’s St. Sulpice showroom for the presentation, providing an authentic counterpoint to the deliberately fantastical universe of the collection, while mirrored surfaces throughout the space create an effect of multiplicity and endless reflection.
The collection itself consists of a wide range of functional pieces, including knitwear, outerwear, and pyjama-inspired sportswear. An elongated and fluid silhouette contrasts with a new, more boxy shape. Shirts, trousers, and coats, among other items, take familiar forms out of context to result in new variations: transparent nylon reveals subtle layering options, while textures and materials including silks, linen and cotton, alongside synthetics mix and collide freely.
Graphic, space-travel-inspired motifs from planet and galaxy patches and a recurring hand painted ‘airbrush’ rocket to extensively employed patterns carry over between styles, harmonising the collection across characters while conveying a young sense of adventure. Material experimentation, a characteristic of the house, is evident in the advanced treatment of natural materials. Linen is combined with velour, while a linen-lined napa aviator jacket is designed for maximum lightness and efficiency in warm months. Also season-appropriate, leather is presented lighter than ever, paper-thin and ultra-soft in essential jackets and trousers.
The key piece is a new version of the Puzzle bag, LOEWE’s latest icon. Composed out of 12 different fragments that represent the material gamut of the collection including crocodile and mirrored and engraved calf, it encapsulates all facets of LOEWE SS2016. This season also introduces an irresistible caramel colour for suede, a modern alternative to the house’s signature Oro hue, presented here on the Amazona with corners in chocolate calf. Desirable rubber-and-calf keyrings, as well as wallets, purses and a variety of new bags and pouches round out the collection, making its distinct iconography accessible at all levels.