M MISSONI FW2015 Collection inspired by a techno-girl from Shanghai that is very much into metallic glint or better yet into the sense of intrigue and enchantment they spark. That's the mood pervading M Missoni on occasion overtly other times quietly and subtly, an enthralling game all about technique & interpretation, giving definition to a collection that looks at once to a far-off world, to modern decades, a contemporary universe and no hint of deja vu.
Yje path to formal magic is through precise geometric rigor while there is no lack of fluidity and ease. The focus is on a pursuit of severity, making the most of different kinds of color/material contrast edging, all high in graphic impact. The theme is ever present, from striaght slim jackets to Mao style tunics with QiPao type side neck closure. To ultralight satin blouses widening towards the bottom thanks to a special horizontal seam. Lengths vary as shorts take turns with open trapeze bermuda and skinny cropped pants. Similarly, skirts shift from mini to slightly asymmetric knee-length concepts.
Materials are chunky, as in rich, full textures, it is clearly the way. A common M Missoni element, it's an emblem of knits that often come complete with ripple or degrade effects. Equally important are other sorts of working processes, from embossing to jacquard designs and as always, material mixes play an essential role. Thick weave wools, jersey, satin, neoprene and velvet stand beautifully alone, yet mostly join forces with a smart new allure. The color are as warm and precious as those marking the tapestries in the halls of the golden city, as gloriously irresistible as the ones identifying the costumes of Beijing Opera performers. They are kaleidoscopic. The palette sweeps from imperial red and yellow to jade green, from electric blue to peony pink, from orange to peach, to a bronze shade of brown, from plum to bright purple.
The effects are stronger than ever. It is the propensity for a see-through sheerness, the result of ultralight yarn knits in partial or horizontal mode, or of heavier gauge-knit intarsia style for a supremely feminine image. The reference to timeless motifs, traditional stage masks for instance, take on a 21st century slant when the approach is serial to the point of becoming abstract. As in the warrior collar puffer jackets, colorful or monochrome on the outside, invariably in technicolor on the inside. An appreciation for setting style with graphic precision surfaces again both in the blush pink pajama outfit with black grosgrain trim and in the jersey with fine gold edging. Semi-glossy effects are a highlight of the allover pawl-stitch items, while a wondrous sheen adds intensity to the shapely stretch top in jacquard knit, padded with stretch-nylon a la last empress. Finally, a double-face lace/neoprene fabric with black-on-black edging awards a particular dress and skirt the appearance of a framed painting or of a curtain on one of the palaces's secret rooms.