Gieves & Hawkes FW2014 collection presents an unashamedly masculine and urban interpretation of a British gentleman’s wardrobe. Tweeds, twills, Donegal’s and country checks are re-imagined for a more graphic palette. Luxurious hounds tooth and marled yarns come richly to life alongside velvets, cashmere and alpaca with an emphasis on fabrics that look rugged but are soft and sensuous to the touch.
Tailoring is cut with precision for a strict silhouette with patterns fine-tuned by the bespoke cutters at No.1 Savile Row. Key shapes include double breasted and the three piece featuring a shawl lapel waistcoat and a stronger signature shoulder. Styling details include woollen ties and flannel shirting. Casual wear is anchored in Savile Row elegance and introduces leather bombers with shearling collars over hand-knit cashmere sweaters in military inspired cable and rib.
The coat is king this season, exemplified by a depth and variety of styles from a reworked Admiral’s Boat Cloak through an officer’s belted greatcoat to a shearling collared greatcoat. Signature eveningwear is infused with a subversive playfulness. Decorative jacquards in copper, teal and oxblood cut through the stiffness of formal dressing whilst remaining totally correct. Monogrammed evening slippers provide a relaxed alternative to strict formality. British bench-made shoes re-visit favoured styles. Two-tone Ghillie brogues and shearling-lined pebble-grain boots blur the boundary between town and country. A double monk-strap shoe is remodelled in alligator, the Derby is hi-shine and cap-toes are hand-burnished.The fine skins used for the shoe collection inspire a new range of luggage, briefcases and leather accessories that bring textural interest to work and travel. Hardware is in gilt or chrome and references military detailing from the Hawkes archive.
A full eyewear collection is also presented. Designed in house and Made in Italy, the collection presents Zeiss lenses in neo vintage frames, some with leather trim detail, mirror lenses or matte finish. For fine jewellery, Gieves & Hawkes presents its first collaboration with Tane of Mexico, famed for its silver wear since the 1920’s. Cufflinks are handcrafted in heritage workshops from sterling silver and18 karat gold.