PHILIPP PLEIN FW2014/15 “Noir Cowboy” men’s collection set in the Wild West. The frontier still waiting to be discovered and developed. Where rules are yet to be written, and people are free to do as they please. A new adventure which PHILIPP PLEIN recreates right in the heart of Milan. Teatro Alcione is turned into a full-fledged prairie town. The Noir Cowboy envisioned by designer Philipp Plein bursts onto the stage, creating a ruckus and flaunting his bravery. The show begins with breathtaking feats, the backdrop to a burning love story where beauty unleashes jealousy and passion. The soundtrack is provided by Johnny Cash-inspired rock, folk and soul, the one and only man in black revered by Philipp Plein.
Strong, virile and passionate, PHILIPP PLEIN’s cowboy lives intensely and fearlessly, taking all risks in his stride. Nothing frightens him. He has done his very utmost to assert his identity and achieve success. He never forgets his origins, and looks back on the past to keep one step ahead of the future. He indulges his interests, including parties, women and fashion, and is always in search of new thrills. Renowned American photographer Steven Klein masterfully strips down and captures the extreme profile of this contemporary man in his provocative video-invitation; a man now outfitted with scrupulous care for the catwalk.
The Noir Cowboy plays the starring role in a metropolitan Far West featuring extreme luxury. His color is black, both shiny and matte. His symbols are crossed six shooters and the time-honoured “Buffalo skull” seen in the patterns of Native American cotton/ cashmere blankets thrown over the shoulders, and on buttons and linings. He portrays a strong, hedonistic form of physicality, sculpted by impeccable elegance and bearing, yet toned down with western-style details and playful touches. Numerous jackets are presented in exquisite materials including embellished leathers. A stunning ultra soft nappa blazer composed of panels hand assembled with thin nappa strips and minute threaded edging, a new take on the sartorial destructured look.
Crocodile is present throughout, including a unique version with soft nabuk finish. The effect is ultra-luxurious in the mink-lined biker jacket. Snakeskin is brushed and painted by hand. Bas-relief crocodile-effect inserts appear on pony skin and nappa. A cracked effect bomber jacket is specially handcrafted to appear worn out after a life of long rides battered by the sun, dust and wind of the prairies. An aged-effect is also seen in tea soaked jeans worn under classic chaps that hook onto a western cartridge belt handcrafted in crocodile with a snake buckle.
Long riding coats that virtually graze the ground make an appearance for showdowns at the OK Corral, with pronounced shoulders and arrow-shaped lapels. Also in wool knit with waistlines accented by leather inserts. To be worn over suits, that feature meticulous attention to detail this season. Snakeskin lapels are dazzling, edged in leather or encrusted with micro studs in CRYSTALLIZED TM-Swarovski Elements.
Hazy visions appear like mirages of the Rocky Mountains on airbrushed knitwear. Folk accents blend with raised inserts for the luxurious cashmere and wool knitwear. There is no shortage of Texan inspiration, such as the double yokes, long cuffs and tall collars, also in ultra-soft leather. Metallic crossed six shooter pins adorn shirts in refined cotton jacquard or tartan flannel, complete with a classic bolo tie around the neck. Tartan prints are also used for pocket squares, bandanas and scarves. The accessories include a multitude of must-have boots, in particular a version in tumbled leather with crocodile patches , to combine with backpacks, rucksacks, bags and holdalls in all shapes and sizes.
Everything necessary for the adventures of the contemporary cowboy. Constantly at the ready to fight and defend love and honor against attacks from gunslingers, desperados and rival paramours intent on his undoing. The saga continues…