VALENTINO Pres Spring 2016 Collection is a mix of cultures as an expression of individuality. Fusion as an essence of contemporary life. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli adopted Diana Vreeland’s famous phrase: “The eye has to travel.” They set off for a journey amidst faraway worlds, combining them in the name of an extreme aesthetic that preserves unmistakable lightness. They combine the libertarian spirit and undisciplined style of memorable rock concerts with the idiosyncratic decorative approach of Millicent Rogers, bohemian exoticism with the volatile glamour of a garden party, simplicity and excess. The result is a complex yet simple concept that sends a liberating message: the Valentino world is a free zone where each woman is one of a kind, using style as an instrument for self-expression.
The collection is tactile, patterned, intense, and experimental. Everything is based upon intricate weaves and layering. The flowing, sleek silhouette is embellished with gored inserts, drop waists, and bell sleeves. Sensuality is subtle yet distinctive. The poetry of travel becomes a detour of texture: lace and pleating are combined in fantastic woven intarsia, while geometric motifs form stripes and chevron patterns.
Surfaces are covered with graphic patterns and natural landscapes continuously redesigned by cuts and constructions: a Navaho print from the archives, the surprising Water Song by artist Christi Belcourt. Metal studs and hard stones decorate leather garments, while intarsia embellishes suede jackets.
Balances are slightly skewed: fanciful animals are embroidered on sportswear, while military-style garments come in moody black. Couture and ethnic geometric motifs blend to create a new look. The exciting freshness of an imaginary garden party takes on a mysterious vibe.
The color palette is a combination of desaturated nuances: sherbet shades of mint green, melon, and tangerine, touches of nude, beige, and dark brown, splashes of dark red, penicillin green and black. Costume jewelry and accessories are essential elements used as idiosyncratic touches: hard stones adorn handbags, necklaces and earrings. Floral motifs are created in fragile, light filigree.
Unexpected nuances are used on boots, and garland-lik e jewelry decorates sandals. Exploring the extremes of a deliberately excessive taste, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli renew the sense of a vision that f ocuses on a unique, one-of-a-kind woman.