2013-11-06

HUGO @ Fall 2013 Men & Women Reflection Collection

HUGO Fall 2013 Men collection emphasized on innovative fabrics, radical shapes, new proportions: on its 20th anniversary, reflects on its own history and looks forward to the future. Pumped-up volumes contrasted with lightweight fabrics. Sculptural silhouettes enhanced with shiny surfaces. Respected traditions refreshed with innovative material mixes. This and more defines the HUGO style in the coming season. Avant-garde meets tailored finishing, freedom meets dress codes. The attitude of the HUGO man turns 20, too and is more relevant than ever.
 HUGO celebrates its birthday with a futuristic interpretation of fashion; with modern techniques and radical artwork. The standout pullover and scarf in felted wool are stand-ins for the jacket. The wide-cut but short pleated trousers in wool and cashmere feature a hip highlight that resembles a cummerbund. The duffle coat loses its toggles but gains structure and streamlining. The mackintosh goes double-breasted, with a hidden button placket. The white slim-cut trousers are perfectly offset by black derby shoes with massive XXL soles. The pullovers show subtle camouflage patterns. A black, broad-shouldered cowhide coat fuses 1980s opulence with Mad Max futurism. This season, shoulders are generally very big, which also applies to the wine red biker jacket (premiering in wool!) and the sleeveless double-breasted coat. And the boots? Shiny details lend them a rock-chic vibe.
Whether it’s a muted luster or a glossy shine: the surfaces make an impression. Dense wool and soft leather are paired with nylon. Unusual material mixes: this too is HUGO. The retrospective becomes a re-reflection of sorts. It’s all about rediscovery, about evolution. The collection takes a stand. In favor of dark luxury. In favor of 2013. In favor of the future.
The color palette traverses shades of gray and moves on to petrol, navy blue, pine green and wine red along with lots of black. The signal HUGO Red clearly also plays a part in this anniversary party in a spectacular suit with a four-button jacket that has super skinny lapels.
HUGO Womenswear Collection pays homage to two decades of directional design. Red never follows in 2013, the HUGO maxim is more relevant than ever. The brand has turned 20 and seized this opportunity to rethink its own past. Modern tailoring, technical fabrics and ingenious features: for Creative Director Eyan Allen, this is the essence of the HUGO story. And the starting point for the new season.
Smart finishes meet classic fabrics in a contextual revolution; traditional silhouettes are updated with never-before-seen details. A cropped and collarless wool jacket with modest hook fasteners wears a surprising double-folded shoulder with a metallic-look finish. Pointy pumps with a glossy iridescence offer an innovative take on the high-tech theme. Cream colored cigarette pants fracture the ultra-clean silhouette with sporty jogging-style hems. Last but not least come the prints: ostensibly romantic blossoms are stylized into a digital kaleidoscope. This pattern features as a total look in the signature HUGO suit and lends the precision-cut silk dresses their unexpected, multi-facetted flair.
Proportions are played with, materials experimented with. A floor-length shift in fluorescent midnightblue shows off a dramatic plunging neckline drawn with geometric exactitude –and bookended by elliptical cutouts at the hips. The HUGO woman simply dares to be different. She dons a tailored knit turtleneck with oversized sleeves –and adds a high-tech multi-fabric tweed skirt with jersey and square cutouts.
The HUGO classics slot smoothly into the new look. Re-released as anniversary styles, they come in the typical HUGO palette of black, red and cream. Fine piping lends the sleek corsage dress a graphic structure; a sharp edge on the shoulders sets off a short blazer. And a slash of HUGO red highlights the heels of sleek black pumps.

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