2013-11-08

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI @ FW2013 Everyday Couture Women’s Collection

 In the new Brunello Cucinelli Women's Collection FW2013, the essence of femininity is expressed through striking shapes, sculptural elements, cuts, and volumes. Haute couture techniques combined with different materials and textures create three-dimensional effects and lines yet preserve lightness and volume, luxuriously alternating the fluid female universe of silk crepe and satin and the sartorial world of menswear wool and flannel.  The collection opens with deep, dark shades ranging from coppery browns like beaver and fox to lignite and anthracite gray, from moss and forest green to wintery blues, alternating with luminous touches of white and vanilla with speckles and a metallic gleam that create a graphic effect. Sleek shapes and geometric cuts are the choice for the blazer coats, tuxedo jackets, A-line skirts, and pea coats made of jersey, impalpable flannel and satin wool, sometimes stiffened with neoprene for an ultra-light "scuba" effect, creating silhouettes that ensure full freedom of movement. The wardrobe expresses relaxed elegance that is perfect for any occasion, day or night.
Sleek dresses have band collars or crew necklines and are made of extra-fine wool felt that accentuates their simple yet soft femininity. Streamlined sablé crepe tunics create flowing silhouettes. Shoes are sporty and masculine yet light with low heels or they have high heels. They're made of luxurious materials such as python or crocodile or with glossy and metallic-finish leathers embellished with precious details such as metal chains.
Outerwear in nylon, silk, leather and suede, also with quilted motifs and multiple pockets, is padded with ultra-light Thermore for the first chilly days of fall. Warm down padding is the choice for the cold winter season. Scuba-style" tuxedo jackets and coats have sleek, geometric silhouettes and are surprisingly soft and light. Reassuring, cozy knitwear features unusual handmade techniques: laminated, carded, boucle, and tweed yarn are mixed and matched, alternating with stripes, cable-knit patterns, and decorative stitches. Jacquard, intertwining floral motifs, shaker knit, embroidery, and "diamond" stitches create a three-dimensional effect that gives the wardrobe a nubby, luxurious look.
In a world where sportswear and sartorial techniques blend, T-shirts and shirts merge to become the blouse. Made of jersey, satin, or silk crepe, they're flowing and feminine and are used to contrast more masculine, rocker details.There is a wide variety of trousers ranging from tapered and skinny fit styles, cigarette pants, and straight-leg cuts to jogging pants, the new equestrian style, 7/8 ankle-length pants and darted trousers, rocker chinos, and wide-leg fuller cuts. Even skirts are made of various materials with different textures and finishes for a glossy/opaque contrast. There are pencil skirts, A-line skirts, "active couture" drawstring skirts, or wraparound maxi-skirts made of felted taffeta, pleated fabric, or material stiffened with neoprene for a "scuba" effect.

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