Veronica Etro plants her SS2016 Women Collection in a Nomadic secret garden where the lineage of rich cultures freely mingle and intertwine to form new creations. Drawing upon the bohemian craft found in the South of France, and the exquisite workmanship in antique clothing from the Eastern Europe, the collection scatters fresh seeds, blooming a springtime playground that pulses with new folk florals and a carefree, feminine allure.
The graceful world of ballet informs the muted palette of dusty roses, the fluent silhouettes and the wrap-like constructions of the clothes that follow the movement of the body.
Long fluid reversible silk robes, plissé skirts hitting below the knee and fluttering dresses with tiered skirts, folk-like flounces or caplettes, all float with a dance-like, summery ease. Bomber jackets in a haberdashery mix of ribbons and bias cut silk georgette jogging pants, cut the romanticism with an edge.
Fabrics are elaborate and rich; but washed, frayed and imperfect to create a relaxed attitude. Floral printed borders, intricate lacing and ornate embroidered ribbons all create luxurious trimmings on peplum jackets and sophisticated dresses with scalloped-stitched hems.
Ribbons run throughout the collection; from thick hand painted bands used as belts and entwined through snug knitwear, to silver lace bands sewn over a floral printed plissé skirt. The focus is on sleeves: embellished or fluttering with layers of lace and tied with thin ribbons.
Floral embroideries are hand-stitched on silk tulle, creating a whispering, feminine tattoo effect. Pattern this season is layered and multi-dimensional. Etro’s signature Paisley blossoms into florals. Scattered potpourri prints, printed ribbon stripes and floral paisley borders melt into more blooms, creating collages of inventive pattern.
The colour palette moves from ivory to muted pinks, apricot, mauve, to taupe, black, midnight blue and prune printed silks. The elaborate, yet functional details of a dancer’s wardrobe make their way onto flat, easy footwear. Embroidered satin ballerina flats are tied up with laces, embroidered leather slippers have ankle straps, while flat boots lace up the front of the leg.
Unconstructed drawstring pouches and shoulder bags come painted or embroidered with flowers, while ears jingle with enamel floral charms and necks are wrapped with hand painted ribbon chokers, all creating a magical trail of garden gypsies.