John Lobb AW2017 Menswear inspired by the River Nene and its significance to the history of bootmaking and explored the journey of the river, and the elemental nature of water. With a focus on flowing, uninterrupted lines, the workings and finishings of raw materials underline the collection, which celebrates the vital link of nature and industry present in Northampton since the 16th Century.
Newly developed rubber soles based on archival wooden lugs and paired with the distinctive storm welt feature throughout the collection, ensuring singular protection from the elements. A group of wholecut models highlight the house’s unique use of large pattern pieces, emphasising the inherent quality of the leathers used. An oxford is punctuated simply with five eyelets and waxed laces.
The purity of a loafer absent of any stitches is underlined with distinctive punching and tassels. Complementing a full brogue duo, a recipe from the Bespoke archives named ‘Brun Lobb’ has been unearthed and redrafted with meticulous care and collaboration between Artisans of the Northampton factory and Bespoke Atelier. Developed in the 1960’s for customers desiring a heightened patina as found in the archives, the technique uses especially coloured creams worked in particularly lightly dyed skins. Distinctive as it is subtle, the result is a marbled, weathered patina with a finish which will enhance with age.
Water resistant Suede Crocodile highlights the functionality and purity of a fluid Jodhpur boot, here offered with a rubber sole in colours of indigo and black. The iconic Museum leather is this season rendered in the Levah plimsole, whilst the newly launched Porth sneaker draws from the house’s welted history with it’s wholecut upper, raised apron and twin stitch details. The seasonal iteration highlights Porth’s leather welt detail with a two tone sole matching its Pebble Grain Calf upper.