Brioni SS2012 escapes to Cuba in the 1950’s and plays with a deconstructed Brioni icon – the jacket – to create a new casual elegance by introducing a new icon: the “Piuma” jacket, the lightest ever created by Brioni’s Master Tailors. Completely unlined, without reinforcements in the chest, shoulder or lapels, the Piuma demonstrates Brioni’s sartorial expertise and while balancing the deconstructed style of the season creating a greater ease and casual interpretation. This lightness has been made possible by using rich, natural fabrics such as silk-linen blend (180 grams), a linen and wool blend and a pure, featherweight silk – the thinnest silk in the world (600 filaments) – resulting in a luxurious sheen and fresh hand.
Inspired by the tropical elegance of Cuba in the 1950’s, the natural, sunset colours – Cadillac pink, Plaintain yellow and tangerine – are lit with shots of sand, hazelnut and tobacco, and anchored with shades of pearl grey, Carribean blue and marine fog. Archival fabric research, unearths a bold use of colored silk in formalwear – a tradition that Brioni first championed in the 50’s. Silk shantung, dupioni and silk-linen blends add luster to the feather-weight dinner jackets of the season. Ultralightness and bold pops of colours are also featured in the cotton, hand-pleated formal shirts worn with electric dinner jackets. Silk shirts, ties and cotton swimwear use graphic prints inspired by 50’s textiles and Cuban architecture. Knitwear yarns are also lighter. New sartorial models – hand – sewn cotton and cashmere knitwear in solid resort shades – merge the details and artistry of a Brioni dress shirt with the softness of a spring polo.