Rick Owen Ss2017 Men Collection titled 'walrus", an evolution of fall's collection name, "madstodon" - evolution being the key word here. Fashion is all about reflecting change and changes are happening. We can fear change and cling to the sentimentally familiar or cheerfully fling ourselves into the unknown. Remember how that used to feel? Owen propose a little of both and like thinking neither is wrong.
Jacket lengths are cropped with lengthened sleeves to change the posture and lift the torso upwards while pants swirl with volume and cascade, melting into the ground. These clothes are reaching and stretching and swelling and floating and sweeping.
T-shirts are twisted and mega-draped as irrationally as possible, creating striated volumes similar to muscles and tendons in a medical diagram - if a medical diagram were sketched by madame gres, one of Owen's personal, reassuringly sentimental, favorites.
These drapes show up again on the easiest of cotton doeskin zip from work jackets. Without the draping, these jackets offer a simple, modest dignity, especially when interpreted in rigid gleaming silk.
Black leather jackets are as high and tight as possible to mold to the rub cage and then release the volume of the jumbo bodybags worn underneath, to end dragging onn the floor.
Some pieces are embroidered with lines that radiate out from the gut - a linear interpretation of this collection's silhouette and a simple motif historically used to symbolize holistic benevolence, as in Christ's sacred heart or a smiling sun cartoon. These lines are then repeated in bronze turbo-bugle beading.
Owen's collaboration with adidas results in his new 'level runner', the sleekest version of a performance running shoe yet.
And the simple, modest dignity of Neil Young soundtracks this collection with his gentle 1970 ecological doom poem "after the gold rush". Owen likes to interpret this song as dealing with inevitable transitions gracefully.