Max Mara rewrites the script with a star part for Miss Grace Jones, a self-fashioned icon who knows all there is to know about working the dynamic between masculine woman and feminine man.
Her recently published memoirs list her enigmatic role models: David Bowie, Marlene Dietrich, Klaus Nomi and Lauren Bacall. Those influences show up in the collection, alongside Jerry Hall and Gia Carangi, with whom Jones started out as a model.
In the mutest of non-speaking roles, she found a voice, made herself heard - and collaborated with the biggest names; Helmut Newton, Keith Haring, Jean-Paul Goude.
Miss Jones championed razor sharp tailoring, and so does Max Mara. Mannish suits are worn next to the skin, and pegged pants cropped at the ankle to show off sexy pumps and strappy heels.
Dapper pinstripes, silk squares clasped at the throat and jaunty fedoras underline the look.
She pioneered the music video. 'I'm not perfect' inspires graphic black and white motifs - from micro to macro - that feature on parachute skirts, ultrafine ‘body painted' leggings and T's, double faced coats and tunics.
Goude's unforgettable images of Grace spark off peppy postmodern colour combosebony, tobacco, coral, salmon and teal worked in precise peacoats, sleek lizard belts and voluminous knits that recall thousands of tiny flower petals.