Sacai SS2016 Collection focuses on taking classic silhouettes with various references of time period, materials, patterns, style and gender and bringing out the uniqueness of these items to create a completely new hybrid form free from it’s original meaning.
The layering of these different ideas creates a new feeling of chaos and unexpected beauty. The incorporation of the Paradise Garage logo interspersed the collection is also an embodiment of this idea of freedom and chaos associated with the infamous 1970’s NYC night club where people from different backgrounds joined together to dance.
The silhouettes this season include mash up styles using a military wind guard panel throughout in unexpected styles such as tailored jackets or zip front blouson jackets, and knit cardigans. Ruffles referenced from men’s eveningwear such as tuxedo shirts are re-imagined as details on unstructured garment dyed tailored jackets, shirts, and shorts as well as on a stadium jacket with ruffled leather sleeve stripes.
There are oversized coats made from a light weight quilted mesh that would normally be seen in the lining of a coat but is used on the outside while the inside is a military coat structure. Oversized military mod coats reveal trench coat details on the inside while military flight jacket styles and stadium coats are created in knit fabrications. Elements of patchwork seen in stripes, plaids and cable knits add to the idea of chaos with the unexpected combinations.
Fabrics for the season include a light weight mesh buffalo check and black watch check as well as flannel plaids made up of three different patterns that gradate into one another. There is a classic menswear glen check pattern in a stretch woven fabric. Prints and patterns include two different versions of a fern and flower and bird pattern.
There is also a Peruvian inspired knit in multicolors as well as ethnic corded embroideries that have been attached and then garment dyed as well as knitwear with beading and embroidery. The Paradise Garage logo is used as both prints and embroideries through out the collection.
The shoes are a collaboration with Japanese footwear company Hender Scheme, a company that sacai has long appreciated for their use of traditional shoemaking techniques. There are two styles offered, a lace up boot and a sandal.
The shoes are made of cow and goat vegetable tanned leather. The leather wears differently over time creating a unique finish for every pair of shoes. Most of the construction is done by hand and the outer sole is done with a rubber mold.