2012-08-15

PENFOLDS Wine Pairing Lunch @ Stephanie Dutton ~ Penfolds Ambassador

PENFOLDS hosted a wine pairing lunch at Amuse Bouche together with their Penfolds Ambassador Stephanie Dutton. Dutton’s relationship with Penfolds started in 2007 at the historical heartland of Penfolds, Magill Estate in Adelaide. Dutton came to wine making after discovering the magic and craft of great wine while working in fine dining restaurants throughout university. Since then, she has fashioned an impressive mix of skills, practice and qualifications to secure her role as a fine wine specialist.
Her passion as Penfolds Ambassador lies not only in being a member of the team that makes iconic wines such as Grange, nor to work in the same stable as wine making icons Ray Beckwith and the late Max Schubert, but the chance to be able to share stories of the new, emerging and innovative wines from Penfolds with wine enthusiasts, restaurateurs and media both here and abroad. “Just to be involved is an honour. I feel a strong custodial responsibility and loyalty being attached to the Penfolds wine making team. The experience certainly isn’t lost on me, no part of it is taken for granted”. Said Dutton.
Made only in exceptional vintage conditions, Penfolds Special Bin wines are significant to generations of Australian and international wine collectors. Deeply connected to Australian wine culture, each release has in some way represented the progress of the modern Australian wine industry.
 
The lunch menu began with the <Home made marinated salmon with dill and beetroot, mustard dill sauce> paired with the refreshing Penfolds Yattarna Chardonnay 2008. Launched in 1998 with the 1995 vintage, Penfolds Yattarna Chardonnay is the result of one of the most comprehensive, focused and highly publicised wine development projects ever conducted in Australia. The colour is pale straw with a light green hue where the nose is noticeably different to the Bin A Chardonnay where the expression exudes a limey citrus restraint that has stylistically evolved across many years of fine-tuning of sourcing & wine making technique. Cantaloupe, cured bacon rind and subtle, spicy oak give way to complex nut kernel and pecan pie complexities arising from yeast lees battonage in barrique. The palette has an explosion of citrus and white stone fruits prelude a layered and creamy custard apple-like mid palate. A core of fine, mineral lemony acid skates across the entire palate, projecting great length of flavour and linearity.
 
<Tuscany artisanal pasta with black truffle, chicken gravy> was paied with the <Penfolds St Henri Shiraz 2008>. St Henri is a time-honoured and alternative expression of Shiraz, and an intriguing counterpoint to Grange. It is unusual among high quality Australian red wines as it does not rely on any new oak. It was created in the early 1950s (first commercial vintage 1957) and gained a new lease of life in the 1990s as its quality and distinctive style became better understood. Proudly, a wine style that hasn’t succumbed to the dictates of fashion or commerce. St Henri is rich and plush when young, gaining soft, earthy, mocha-like characters as it ages. It is matured in old, 1460 litre vats that allow the wine to develop, imparting minimal, if any oak character. Although a small proportion of Cabernet is sometimes used to improve structure, the focal point for St Henri remains Shiraz. The colour are bright crimson rim and dense purple. The nose will be anticipated praline/milk chocolate St Henri aromatic markers, replete with fruits - mulberry and boysenberry. Compliments of the vintage freshly squeezed beetroot/ginger juice and dried spices - bay leaf and sage. Large old vat-matured Shiraz-varietally and convincingly announced by way of a cold lamb/rosemary/marrow disposition. The palate is plush, fleshy and mouth filling - showcasing a cleverly woven texture and deceptive (fruit) weight. Nectarine and blood plum fruits courted by the largesse of big, ripe and round tannins. Maturation precursors already awoken, although yet to ascend/unfurl - fresh wallet leather, pan scrapings, ... Long and persistent. Polished.
 
The Main course was < Roasted French quail and mushroom risotto> or a choice of <Pan fried Australian rib eye beef with spicy gross French fries, Bordelaise sauce > paired with the <Penfolds Bin 169 Cabernet Sauvignon 2008> which was created to reflect Penfolds contemporary wine making approach emphasising both regionally and maturation of Cabernet Sauvignon in fine grained French oak. It is a style that is immediately Penfolds, whilst simultaneously illustrative of its ongoing search for diversity and style separation. The colour is dark magenta with a deeper darker core. The nose is regal yet modern. Lifted high notes with an intriguing mix of root vegetables: rhubarb, turnip,radish., parsnip, white chocolate and clove. No mint detected but with scents of blackberry conserve, fig paste, black olive, oregano, bayleaf, paprika appear on the aromatic radar. A hint of oak, replete with mustard powder/Indian spice. Fresh wafts of new sweet polished leather. The palette is rather lively, stylish, confidently and assertively medium-bodied. The feature here is the texture which structurally woven, a mesh rather that a coating tightened by oak, bound by powdery Coonawarra Cabernet tannins. Good grip, naturally acidity, deep and long.
 
 The aspiration and independence of mind across generations of Penfolds wine making inspired the winery to embark on a program to create a white wine that could one day rival the standards of Penfolds Grange. Selectively sourcing only the very best Chardonnay fruit from cool-climate regions, coupled with sensitive and enlightened wine making, the style continues to evolve. The lunch ended with <Chocolate mousse cake> as dessert.

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