TOO SAFE IS TOO BORING 流行不流行之我為何讓你走？！ 《上》

TOO SAFE IS TOO BORING

流行不流行之我為何讓你走？！

《上》

GUCCI 销售额大不如前，表现不似如期，就连明星穿着效应也翻车，业绩跌跌不休要怪谁？！

说话由 Tom Ford 掌陀时期的 GUCCI（1995-2004）简述讲起 (之前由家族式经营，高潮迭起兼传奇的戏剧性事故亦曾被拍成电影，在此不作一提，有兴趣者可自行谷歌一番），阿 Tom 哥时期的 GUCCI 性感前卫，懂得擅用丝绸、丝绒以及金属等有光泽的物质材料，并赋予 Deep V、高开叉的设计，刻意敞开领口、大面积镂空等的非常 Tom 式设计手法和工艺，成功展现现代优雅和狂野，具备 GUCCI DNA 根本的元素。时隔多年，今天从衣柜取出穿上，并不过时，实属经典中的经典。

当年再加上精心布局及颇为大众受落的时尚广告大片，刻意及大胆展现挑逗意味和煽动性，情欲满泻。阿 Tom 哥认为 Sex Sells，成功开拓此路线，赋予品牌高视度统一及辨识度极高的设计，这新姿态不但迅速被受落，更迎来商业腾飞，由两个亿上升到三十个亿美金年销售额的骄人成绩，令这个一度面临破产的高尚品牌起死回生，功不可没。

阿Tom哥被离任后，由 Alessandra Facchinetti （2004-2005）补位，短暂的 GUCCI 生涯只设计了仅仅一季，无人问津及能被记起（不如不做）的空洞式设计，神话破灭，不被谈及。时隔不久，马上由配饰设计师 Frida Giannini （2005-2015）顶上。

Frida上任后的设计运用了更多色彩，虽弱化了性感价值，但却加入了女性柔媚华贵以及各式各样的花卉印花面料的使用比例提升，（头几季的系列设计，个人还是蛮喜爱的）但到了后期的部分大玩 Bohemia 波米希亚系列就逐渐倒米，设计和轮廓开始变得有点不伦不类。

从高水准到后来僵化乏陈欠新后期的感性设计只能平稳阿 Tom 哥的风格，设计风格一转再转，辨识度不够，存在感欠奉，打造不了爆款产品的能力亦相对薄弱，虽有十亿的年售增长，成绩不算亮眼，不能满足上头设定的目标，再加上当年 Frida 的男友兼品牌首席执行官情史被公开，花边新闻及闲话有说 Frida 能撑十个年头，不多不少有其高层男友的扶持攸关。两人最终被离职，此情可待成追忆。

直至到 Alessandro Michele（2015-2022）的加入，销售神话可谓立即重创，不到八年从 38.9 亿欧元增长至 104.8 亿欧元。Michele时期的GUCCI商业魔法及玩法，其超群出众的风格与鲜明的美学，以戏剧性的文艺复兴元素和怪诞幻想见称，迎合不少刚进入时尚圈的 Z 世代青睐。

米式的怪诞造型，成功创作了品牌整体视觉表达的框架氛围，复古而颓废，古典极繁符号满布。虽不是人人爱喝的那杯熱柠茶，但 Hip 得来又具有个人独特风格及个性的造型，非凡人能驾驭。又，其架空于现实的秀场概念设计及时装秀，看似格格不入，似懂非懂及冲击视觉的鲜明美学衍生，生人勿近，无人能及。

好吃的东西，吃多了也会腻。热闹过后，过了冷静时期，Michele 大同小异的重复系列设计雷同，而系列主题所引用的经典文学和哲学及大锅同抄的配方不怎再鲜明，同时亦相继割裂而迥异。知识被娜用，闷极的轮廓亦无法追忆该时期的 GUCCI  有过怎样的鲜明主张，一季复一季的复制系列很快让人感到厌倦，新鲜感下滑，开始对这新 GUCCI 的审美疲劳。追随者吃腻了这怪诞美幻风格的米式疯癫美学，任由设计团体如何搅尽了脑汁，也于事无补，这是否已触顶而导致品牌业绩同时逐渐放缓的因由？！

同时，那些看似简明易懂的设计，试问又有多少人可以穿出这GUCCI所谓的 Fashionable Vibe呢？而追随者们又真的能读懂 Michele 为每一季那些精心编排的时装秀及非凡人能看懂的哲学主题吗？ Michele 式的设计美学，忠于其设计理念，业界对他的敬意和尊重，无用质疑。这种认知错误谁能让你记住了 Michele 时代的 GUCCI，但能够真正产生精神共鸣的又有几个？究竟号称时尚爱好者的你又是否了解他到底要表达的是什么吗？

集团一哥有见及此，御下密令，还是尽快回归现实为上策。 Michele 的被离任，设计总监的一职悬空，中间的过冷河系列揽抄再揽炒，更不堪一看，直至由曾为 Prada 、 Dolce & Gabanna 及 Valentino 效劳的 Sabato De Sarno （2023-2025）顶上，被雇用为创意总监，目的是想透过 Sabato 的扎实基本功，真懂剪裁的工艺去加强品牌在时尚潮流方面的权威地位。同时上头要彻底清除 Michele 时期的文艺复兴式浪漫，试著回归经典与性感，朝上高端化的方向发展。新设计师上任可有把几火，能否延续业界三季定江山的神话？

请待续。。。。

 

MI XUN TEAHOUSE - Reawaken The Pure Taste

What is it like dining in a one Michelin starred Contemporary Sichuan vegetarian restaurant set in an once old silk factory? From Farm-to-Table, Mi Xun Teahouse’s use of fresh, pure and simple ingredients is transforming numerous award winning dishes with elevated flavours to delight you for an alternative dining experience. Not only the food but also its unique dining ambience. mylifestylenews writes.

Chengdu, the capital of southwestern China’s Sichuan province is known for its spicy hotpot among countless local affluence restaurants and one-of-a-kind street eats beside its rich history. Such a luxuriant melting pot dining culture is so tempting and aplenty and always hard to make up your mind when you dine out, day or night. You need to choose wisely and it is best to have some local (foodie) advice so that you do not fall into the tourist trap. Sometimes, instead of going for the main stream kind of predictable restaurants, an alternative dining experience is always a good find, especially when it is highly recommended by those who opt for something out of the norm. Don’t worry, we are not trying to encourage you to eat some sort of deep fried insects nor some kind of earth living six feet under (that’s boring), yet an elevated classic and modern vegetarian meal can be a breath of fresh air or we rather recognized it as a clear spring from an unpolluted stream.

It is always a joy to see old buildings repurposed and loved for their original architecture that still has a lot of history to tell. The Temple House, a luxury design boutique hotel in the heart of Chengdu is renowned for its urban sanctuary abode with surprises around every corner and celebrates the city’s history through inspired modern design and art. The Temple House has sensibly used a footprint whereby not all amenities are strictly within its walls, so you can have a sense of discovery and as you step out from this luxury boutique design hotel’s cafe into the side laneways heading towards Taikoo Li Chengdu - a luxury and prominent lifestyle shopping precinct set on former temple grounds as part of the Chengdu Daci Temple Cultural and Commercial Complex, Mi Xun Teahouse is hard to be missed for its architectural exterior design re-purposed from an old temple – or the remaining walls thereof – and it has also been once used as an old silk factory to house this one Michelin starred Sichuan vegetarian restaurant.

As Mi Xun is also the name of the hotel’s signature wellness spa, the entrance has an alfresco seating area for good weather. While the locals love to enjoy the elements when not inclement, which is fenced off with some strategic boxed bamboo hedging, as it is on a pretty busy thoroughfare. The restaurant is broken up into different sections due to the house surrounding the main courtyard, and part of it is dedicated for the spa, so you are not able to walk through all the pavilions. Once you enter though, the internal space exudes a serene atmosphere to embrace, with a design that captures the beautiful traditional shiheyuan central courtyard as a point of focus and you feel like you are in an oasis of calm.

The conceptualized design has sensibly kept the front right for a more casual area where tea and snacks can be had, whereas there are dedicated sections on the other side for those who specifically wish to enjoy the Mi Xun Teahouse’s menu. Furniture is all beautiful solid woods in a rich stain with cushion foam covered seating. Wooden tabletops are simple and chic with ceramics in muted tans and browns. Gorgeous pendant lamps are slung from the old wooden beams above each dining table and a wall of traditional medicine cabinet drawers adds an eye-catching design point. Black pillars are the mainstay for the vaulted ceiling and the overall look and feel is one of a ‘ZEN’ like atmosphere.

The guiding principle for the food is sustainability and culinary excellence incorporating seasonal and regionally sourced produce to craft vegetarian dishes. This approach has also given them the honour of receiving Chengdu’s first Michelin Green Star for putting eco-responsibility at the heart of its culinary operations. Back in 2023, the Temple House hosted an “Gifts From The Nature” event on International Panda Day in collaboration with World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF) and featured a special menu inspired by eco-friendly ingredients from communities around giant panda habitats. To continue the good cause, the talented Mi Xun Teahouse culinary team have carefully selected ingredients from these areas and crafted this seasonal “Farm-to-Table” Michelin tasting sharing menu.

The food was accompanied with some excellent high quality organic green tea, but should your palate wish to match the food with wine, a small but expertly selected wine list will pique your interest. We must say that the tea was a great match! Our vegetarian experience kicked off with an amuse bouche of Red Nut Cake and Pumpkin Cheese Nutcake and such piquant delicaies that were rich in flavour and a delicious start together with the house brand Mi Xun Tea.

<Yellow Auricularia, Porcini & Dendrobium Soup>
Essentially a clear consommé with fungus, mushroom and Chinese herbs. The taste gave you a very healthy and hearty feeling, as well as that soothing feeling on the palate. A simple soup elevated with premium ingredients that warm your heart. 
 

<Farm Radish & Pumpkin Sauce>
Radish takes centre place surrounded by sweet peas and then pumpkin radish sauce is poured over the root vegetables. This seasonal special was so far our least favourite dish, as all you could taste was the bland radish as the dominating flavour with the sauce adding no value to the palate. Not too impressed!
 

<Braised Ma Po Tofu in Wild Mushroom Sauce>
Being one of the signature dishes on the tasting sharing menu, the Ma Po Tofu was best accompanied by crispy wild rice from Canada and fragrant jasmine rice from Yunnan, topped with wild mushroom and garlic from near the border of Yunnan Province as well. The light and soft tofu was silken, with a light yet pungent Sichuan peppery taste that excited the palate. The rice and tofu were the perfect yin & yang combination and spices created some numbness that was not overpowering. The accompanying crispy rice was superb and it is such a winning dish!

<Handmade Spinach Noodle with Dan Dan Sauce>
Another signature dish with spinach noodle served with sweet sesame and peanut sauce on the side that was utterly delicious, the unique topping came with the unexpected black bean sprouts and pistachio nuts that brings the classic Sichuan Dan Dan to a different perspective to enjoy such a harmonious flavour and texture that had us wanting more!

 

<Wok-fried Broccolini with Sichuan Pickles>
This extra order from the main menu was quite well executed. Young and tender broccolini are used that had a crunch on the bite and nicely wok-fried. The Sichuan pickles added a little extra punch to the palate without dominating, as it was light and a tasty delight.

<Kung Pao White Button Mushrooms>
Another extra order for such an unexpected delicious dish that surprised us. The smokey high heat stir-fried white button mushroom texture was very meaty and fully absorbing the aromatic Kung Pao sauce in Sichuan pepper to give it a bit of a kick which we loved. It also offered a starchy texture with a hint of sweetness and a full flavour profile with each mouth full.

<Red Rice Noodle Sour Soup with Black Bean Sprouts & Spicy Oil>
The noodle was more like a smooth angel hair and had delicious crunchy mushrooms in it, plus the hot and sour soup, which overall created a great depth of flavour and texture. Another real find from the main menu. So enjoyable!

<Sweet Potato with Apple Sauce, Sago & Diced Fruit>
This fruity and unctuous dessert was very cooling and pleasing on the palate – what you may call a soother or palate cleanser after the powering peppery flavours from the main dishes that we had enjoyed.
 
<Rose & Peach Tree Sap Sweet Soup>
This was served warm and had some honey syrup on the side should you want it sweeter. A very enjoyable dessert that erred on the side of subtlety with a pleasant and delightful end to the entire evening.
 

It is clear to see why Mi Xun Teahouse has garnered recognition as the first Michelin Green Star in Chengdu. Quality ingredients are a given and hand-picked and the sustainability focus for all the produce means that the menu manages to capture your attention from beginning to end with a purity and organic, natural approach, paying homage to Mother Nature. Plating is superb with hand-made ceramics tailor-made for the restaurant, which adds to the minimalistic ‘ZEN’ design approach.

The service was discreet and attentive – they want to maintain the oasis of calm so not speaking too loudly is a good thing for such a graceful ambience, with the team ensuring that we understood every detail for each dish and its provenance, as that is such an important part of understanding how seriously they approach the simplest of ingredients and ensuring you enjoy the menu with all the knowledge at hand (some ingredients were not familiar to all of us, so this helped).

Sometimes we have forgotten how natural and basic food tastes like, because we are bombarded by the daily consumption of processed food, so Mi Xun Teahouse dining experience was a timely reminder that simplicity of ingredients that are handled with honesty can enliven the palate and reawaken interest in a simple yet palatable vegetable among many other roots, herbs and edible plants used and transformed into such a fascinating curated meal by some pairs of thoughtful good hands from the passionate culinary team. Simply remarkable!

Tried & Tested:

Location: 5/5
Design & Decor: 4.5/5
Food & Beverage: 4.5/5
Service: 5/5
Value For Money: 4,5/5
Experience: 4.5/5

MI XUN Teahouse
81, Bitieshi Street,

Jingjiang District,

Chengdu, China

Tel: +86 28 6297 4193

Reviews are based on actual day of visit and experience. mylifestylenews reserves the right of final decision in case of any disputes. All images are photographed by mylifestylenews team without any photoshop enhancement and are the property owned by mylifestylenews unless otherwise stated. 

AURIGA SPA Capella Shanghai - Unlock Your Inner Sense

Named after the constellation in which the Capella star sits, the award winning Auriga Spa at Capella Shanghai offers a world class conceptualized health and wellness for an unique and ultimate luxury spa to remember. mylifestylenews writes.

A good spa is hard to find, especially when you are looking for an ultimate indulgence as some of those wellness centres over promise and do not deliver. The Capella Hotel brand has garnered accolades as one of the pre-eminent boutique brands that truly delivers on personalized service. With the establishment of their in-house spas under the Auriga brand, signature treatments as well as bespoke specially-curated menu of treatments exclusive to Capella Shanghai make this wellness experience even more admirable.

Set in a type of dwelling with a courtyard surrounded by building, almost a siheyuan architectural design in a smaller scale that is commonly found throughout China, this Shanghai courtyard house urban sanctuary is a wellness centre with a difference, as its location is nestled in one of Xuhui District’s last remaining clusters of Shikumen architecture tucked away on one of the historic clustered laneways which is also the entrance next to the hotel reception that make the arrival experience even more charming and memorable.

Subsequently, there is a charm about the building and interior design that sets it apart from many other luxurious spas in new build properties, so we knew we were in for a treat. The interior is more like a classic residential old-world mix of wood panelling, Chinese wooden screens and plush furnishings that exuded a sense of warmth and comfort (a nice counterpoint to the winter temperatures outside).

As they could not build upwards due to the restrictions in the historic district, it goes down, so the space is far more voluminous than you would have first thought and encompasses a lot of amenities: 7 treatment suites; luxuriously appointed separate male and female change rooms; a relaxation lounge; sauna and steam room; vitality pool; movement studio; flotation tanks; a salt room; and a fully equipped gym.

In keeping with all of these facilities, each treatment room embodies the Auriga spirit,   marrying soothing simplicity and pure indulgence delivered with a tailored, holistic approach to your form, mood and senses incorporating traditional techniques and organic, natural ingredients. Luxury indulging is also aided by the use of the luxury skincare brand CARITA from Paris, so who could ask for anything more?

We were a little time poor, so we opted for the true Signature relaxation Massage. Auriga Therapists are champions of nature and we were escorted by our two warm and welcoming therapists to a couples suite, which we must say was quite a luxurious indulgence.

The couple suite is larger than we were expecting and you truly felt cocooned in this wellness retreat. Needless to say all the amenities are well thought through and tailored for, from cushion slippers to fluffy bathrobes and shower amenities which were such a delight to enjoy – not one detail had been missed and simply alluring.

Most importantly though, was the whole massage sequence, which they managed with aplomb. The aroma oil was duly selected to maximize the benefits followed by a foot cleansing ritual. As always, they asked about the ambience - the background music, temperature and lighting – and we were slowly slipping into relaxation heaven. We had each given instructions as to how soft/hard the pressure should be and we both agreed after wards that this had been followed meticulously. The long flowing strokes did wonders for our jet-lagged muscles and after some initial kinks being ironed out with some serious thumb/palm work, we slowly slipped into a semi-slumber for some much needed relaxation.

The 90-minutes spa treatment seemed like a blink of the eyes especially when you are indulged and being pampered in all senses. We were then adjourned to the graceful and cozy relaxation lounge to sip a cup of hot herbal tea to further sooth our bodies and calm our mind.

The Auriga Spa in Capella Shanghai is a destination that we think would be unrivalled for its ambience and thoughtful touches as well as its historic location. If the signature spa treatments not enough to satisfy your spa craving, the Auriga Detox Day would be another level of indulgence that offers a bespoke Sleep Therapy and Qi programme featuring Guasha and Tuina massage focusing on renewal and retrospection, tapping into celestial rhythm, marrying soothing simplicity and pure indulgence to unlock your inner sense and embody the true Auriga spirit.

Tried & Tested:
Location: 5/5

Design & Decor: 5/5

Amenities: 5/5

Service: 5/5

Value For Money: 5/5

Experience: 5/5

 
Auriga Spa Capella Shanghai 

480, Jianguo Road (W), Xuhui District, 
Shanghai, China
Tel: +86 21 5466 6688

Reviews are based on actual day of visit and experience. mylifestylenews reserves the right of final decision in case of any disputes. All images are photographed by mylifestylenews team without any photoshop enhancement and are the property owned by mylifestylenews unless otherwise stated. 

THAT IS SO YOU 揮灑熱情反映真實日常時尚

THAT IS SO YOU

揮灑熱情反映真實日常時尚

阳光穿透窗户，照亮Miu Miu 2025年春夏名为「DUETS」的广企。有光就有影；有通透明晰就有唯心演绎，游走于创作和感知之间，带来层层相加的意义和深度。来自不同界别的达人，包括刘浩存、 Kayije Kagame、 Sunday Rose Kidman Urban、 Joey King、 Lena Mantler及 Eliot Sumner以自然不做作的姿态和多元化的造型，呈现真实的时刻，暂忘复杂的现代生活及浑沌的成人世界，追逐阳光，踏进独一无二的天地。

此季系列与充满童趣和儿时回忆的法国品牌 Petit Bateau合作，回望童装的清纯气质，聚焦于简约精练的设计，象征新生和纯真，呼应未受虚荣和浮华污染的岁月。隽永典雅的 Aventure手袋和迷人的 Arcadie手袋搭配时装展发表的新款运动鞋或粗踭 Mary Janes高跟鞋，效果恰到好处。Miu Miu继续将经典再造，发挥丰富创意，带来耳目一新的气象。

Prada 2025年春夏男女装系列广企，透过Steven Meisel的镜头，由演艺界新贵Harris Dickinson粉墨登场，亦动亦静、时而开朗、时而冷傲，表演赋予肌理的真实个性演，将真实的自己呈现于镜头前，演员的真缔，正正就是扮演自己。而身上的服饰，亦随他的外观、动作和气场而改变，由经典男服开始逐渐蜕变，呈现眼前的是一个人的不同面向，渲染他自己的个性真象，他就是自己故事中的Protagonist主角。

女装广企就由刘雯担纲，以个体展现女性自主力量，尽情表达自我。她那英雄人物般的风范，内在的多元面向和双元性，独特的表达方式与独有个性，眼神直接且坚定有力，充满自信，单独一人，是唯一的主角，正反映系列灵感来源，同时塑造出只属她的百变身分。

Maria Grazia Chiuri大妈为Dior设计的2025年度假系列广企宛如一首献给苏格兰象征的颂歌。系列造型蕴含着叛逆精神，以及Mary Stuart的美貌与坚韧，在Brigitte Niedermair的镜头下化作充满诗意的凄美影像。光与影在瑰丽的环境中追逐，苏格兰的山光水色在镜头前美不胜收，呈现出当地丰富多元的历史，以及传承悠久的精湛工艺。

模特儿展现不羁自持的女性气质，在暗黑哥德式浪漫主义与朋克的冲动不羁之间游走。文艺复兴的影响在塔夫绸蓬蓬裙、华丽的拖尾下摆和缀有珍贵刺绣的连身裙上展现。以永恒的苏格兰裙为灵感主线，将典雅的西装外套、外套和长裤进一步升华。经典D-Fight皮靴点缀造型，配合轻拥腰肢的皮带和Lady Dior及New Bobby手袋，烘托系列各个诱人的造型。迷人的旅程，勾勒出Dior自由自主、无尽创新的风格。

Dior 2025 夏季男装系列广企受到 Hylton Nel标志性猫的作品启发，令人无法抗拒的雕塑感，其曲线和饰面借鉴了陶瓷语言，在工艺和时装的交汇处编织出强大的创意对话，作品具有卓越与时尚的完美结合，在 Pieter Hugo 迷人的照片中熠熠生辉。Kim Jones的构思，是对卓越工艺的精彩致敬，融合了实用性、耐久性和对传统工艺的重新演绎。在点缀着茂密植被的柔和色调装饰中，模特们在色彩缤纷的底座上摆出姿势，轮廓体现了这位南非艺术家的审美，针织品通过欢快的图案和印花升华，唤起他独特的宇宙。圆润的体积占主导地位，围裙是经典工作服的象征，以精致腰带的形式重新演绎，美观与实用的结合，对传统、现代和激情的多重致敬。