Rooted in Shenzhen, the curated menu reflects over two decades of Michelin-level discipline, paired with a sensitive reading of local produce and marks a deliberate return to culinary essentials - ingredients, timing and the architecture of sauce where authenticity takes centre stage. Soaring above the city at a height of 388 metres in the clouds as a jewel in Shenzhen’s skyline, the restaurant name is derived from its building elevation which sits on the 77th floor of the hotel with a panoramic vista of the city.
Like many luxury hotels in Shenzhen there is no one perfect location, as there are many and the Mandarin Oriental’s location in the Upperhills, Futian district places it in the heart of the central business district adjoining a premier shopping and lifestyle mall and was not accidental, and neither was the choice to offer guests a sophisticated fine dining experience. Opus 388 is where French elegance meets modern innovation and this just isn’t a hyperbole. Once you arrive on the 77th floor there is a very attractive entrance experience with a beautiful and bold chromatic pattern wall to welcome your arrival. Adjourned further in, there is a cozy lounge area in a club style with button back sofa chairs and coffee tables that exude a luxurious touch and best for pre or post dinner drinks.
The main dining room to the right as you enter is a mix of curved banquettes and white marble table tops and striking blue dining chairs that are encompassed with a sensational view over Shenzhen and beyond. The whole dining room is bathed in subtle lighting with black and white framed photographs that strategically adorn the brick walls without being over done.
Textural glass is also used as a feature panel to sectionalize half of the main dining area with an elevated platform flooring to create a seemingly classy theatre bistronomique style of dining experience, well juxtaposed with the curved metal screen on top of those intimate red banquettes that further enhance the already elegant dinning ambience.
Another distinct dining experience is available at the dynamic Chef’s table where the real action takes place and to witness the artistry of the kitchen firsthand as this open kitchen also serves as a key focal point the moment you walk in through the lounge area and the 12-seater private dining room on the right as it is the brightest area in the entire restaurant. The wine cellar wall facing the kitchen is beautifully lit creating an ambience on one side off the main dining room. We were warmly ushered to the Chef’s table and managed to have a few words with Chef Alessio throughout the entire evening.
Honing his craft took place in some of the world’s most prestigious Michelin-starred restaurants across Europe and Asia, including working at the three-star restaurant in Monaco as well as the two-star restaurant at Morpheus in Macau – both under the mentorship of the renowned Alain Ducasse. Born on the Ligurian coast of Italy, Chef Alessio’s culinary approach blends the everyday flavours of the Mediterranean with fine ingredients and the reinvention of modern cooking techniques, honouring French tradition with a distinctive contemporary flair.
Chef Alessio’s curiosity of China has never stopped him from exploring different regions to find the finest local ingredients and produce and to re-examine how terroir - land and water - shapes taste and refining the French sensibility culinary. Needless to say that each dish is a delicate balance of tradition and creativity, offering diners an immersive fine-dining experience with panoramic views that mirror the artistry on the plate.
The new dégustation menu My Journey to China - Chapter 5 returns to the core tensions opening a fresh chapter that defines timing, texture and sauce architecture which is an understated east-meets-west dialogue, guided by clarity and precision as part of the Chef’s Table Series. With wine pairing as an additional option curated by the sommelier team with wine selection thoughtfully aligned with each ingredient, cooking method and sauce structure layering the experience into a complete narrative. Mandy and Joy were looking after us for the evening and to begin with, we were offered a welcome mocktail of refreshing grape juice and jasmine tea followed by wine pairing to enlighten our My Journey to China - Chapter 5 symphony on hearing that we were intrigued by Chinese wines of any variety, the wine pairing was adjusted to only serve Chinese wines much to our delight.
So we kicked off the evening with a 2022 Devo Blanc de Noirs Brut Nature 100% pinot chardonnay sparkling from Ningxia. The complexity and yeasty palate definitely resonated with us that turned out to be a welcome surprise.
In-house sourdough bread was also served with silky textured butter with black olive and rosemary and we couldn’t get enough of this either, but our first course awaited.
<Gillardeau Oyster, Sunflower Seed Cream & Aromatic Shallot>
The oyster was topped with sunflower seed cream and petal with aromatic shallots which created a sweet, light creamy and sour effect on palate. The medium size oyster was so delicious, enhanced by the sauce and added that palatable savoury textural flavour profile.
<Baijiao Seabass, Tomato & Basil Essence & Black Sesame Wafer>
A delicate seasonal seabass with flavours of the Mediterranean from the Baijiao waters gently marinated in classic French confit tomatoes. The fish was finely chopped like a tartare with fresh basil giving a refreshing herbal note. Garlic and thyme were also added to the tomatoes as a base and the black sesame wafer added a subtle toasted nuance. Light in progression, all in all such a wonderful melange of flavours.
<North Sea Scampi Gelee, Pea Cream, Poached Tail and Perseus Caviar>
This was a dish that had a complexity to be savoured and to admire, although at first glance you had no idea how it would enliven the palate, but with one spoonful you got all the ingredients that were bursting on the tongue. There were four layers to the execution, one part peas that had been barbecued imparting a smoky flavour and one part peas that had been pureed and pan-fried, offering a smooth balance. Then, a layer of the meticulous marination and low temperature preparation of the North Sea scampi to preserve its sweetness and texture, followed by Oscetria caviar that was topped with lemon peel to elevate one another within a minimalist structure. The green pea puree gave a certain grassiness that was soothing, but, most importantly, the scampi had a voice and while overall complex this creation was delighting the palate at every turn.
It was well paired with a very dry 2023 Rkatsiteli Chinese white wine from Puchang vineyard, Xinjiang that exhibited flavours of green apple, quince and white peach.
<Agria Potato Gnocchi, Yunnan Morels and Smoked Forest Jus>
The gnocchi was made from Agria potato from Heilongjiang, malt product was blended with chilli oil, essentially a powder product with forest smoky sauce (chestnut mushroom) and taro potato wafer with morel mushrooms from Yunnan. The gnocchi was so soft and unctuous and the mushrooms and forest jus created a beautiful earthy complexity on the palate redolent of the forest floor. The chilli oil brought a local flavour and authenticity to the dish and such harmony. Yes, it had Italian roots but with the Chinese touch and a joy to savour!
<Breton Blue Lobster, Roasted plum, Tamarillo & Shiso Beurre Blanc>
The lobster meat was charcoal grilled and served with tomato and roasted plum puree. This was another stunning presentation with the lobster and the shiso beurre blanc alone being absolutely delectable and as fresh as you can get. The purees were a little too fulsome in flavour for the lobster, but in little mouthfuls a beautiful combination.
This was paired with another white wine – 2023 Jiangyu Ferment Grechetto from Yantai, Shandong province that exhibited an oily mouth feel and notes of apple, lemon and chamomile reminiscent of a rich Burgundian white.
<Signature French Canard, Lettuce Fondant & Albufera Sauce>
The Canard duck breast was a tribute to the French culinary classics. The duck was cured and matured using traditional methods, with cuisson controlled in a restrained, unwavering manner, slowly cooked and topped with a home-made fried potato. The Albufera sauce was extracted by the duck press which gets all the juice and flavour out of the bones, which is then mixed with a veloute that is enriched with cream. The meat was so rich and enjoyable with a crispy skin and the fried potato flake added another crispy level which was so enjoyable. The meat ball on one side of the plate was the meat from the leg mixed with parmesan and ricotta cheese, so another delicious bonus to the actual confit. The sauce was simply divine and the butter-glazed lettuce as a side added another texture and refreshing balance, with all components bringing harmony and joy to the palate for a captivating dish with an elegant finish where nothing was left on the plate by the end! This was paired with a Ningxia Helan Mountain Merlot that exuded black cherry, plum and subtle notes of sweet spice.
<Pure Chocolate Water Sorbet, Coconut and Grue with Extra Virgin Olive Oil>
The cocoa bean was from Haikou on Sanya Island much to our surprise and this dessert was pure cocoa and water that came with a rather attractive presentation. The crunchiness was added with the desiccated coconut and the chocolate fondant was so rich and yet not bitter. It was lightly drizzled with a distinctive clean and aromatic extra virgin olive oil which Chef Alessio hand picked from his friend’s olive estate in Italy.
<Bordeaux Canele, Madagascar Vanilla Cream & Amber Caramel>
The dough is made in house and rested for five days and then cooked one hour before serving. There is lots of cinnamon and Madagascar vanilla and a little cream cheese in the filling. This was such a happy dessert that was quite enjoyable on the palate and with a crispy outer texture and another triumph! Desserts were paired with a Domaine Franco Chinois from Hebei province, that exuded lots of berries, currants and hints of tobacco and musk.
The plating of each course was a joy, as each dish had a different look that complimented the chosen food. We naturally had high expectations prior to dining and the evening did not disappoint. The food was beautifully executed and unpretentious, but as they say, it is all in the art of presentation and Chef Alessio has an eye for detail that transposes into art on the plate.
Mandy and Joy were our servers and they both contributed to such an enjoyable experience. The choice of Chinese wines was spot on for each course they were paired with. Both of their product knowledge was second to none as if each had prepared the ingredients themselves. Most importantly, Chef Alessio’s relentless pursuit of new culinary challenges and discoveries with a profound appreciation for both modernity and classic French sophistication brings a fresh culinary vision intent to Opus 388 to delight all diners. He communicated with us throughout the evening to ensure that we understood his vision and how the ingredients can combine into such exquisite dishes to delight the palate while integrating new innovative concepts to his culinary that inspires.
Our seating at the open kitchen was quite comfortable and enjoyable as well, watching the culinary brigade perform their kitchen ballet throughout the evening. Not one beat was missed from any team member and we left with a contented and memorable evening to reflect on. From nature to plate, crafted with sincerity, Opus 388 delivers a narrative of flavours that resonate with locals and visitors alike and also has set a high standard for haute French cuisine that would be difficult to surpass.
Tried & Tested:
Location: 5/5
Design & Decor: 5/5
Food & Beverage: 5/5
Service: 5/5
Value For Money: 5/5
Experience: 5/5
Location: 5/5
Design & Decor: 5/5
Food & Beverage: 5/5
Service: 5/5
Value For Money: 5/5
Experience: 5/5
