WESTWOOD | KAWAKUBO 西太后與玲姐的對唱 （PART III）

維多利亞州國家美術館

National Gallery of Victoria (NGV)

2025年12月7日- 2026年4月19日

墨爾本現場直擊

《Reinvention – Design Method 重塑 – 设计方式》

作为自学成才的设计师，西太后和玲姐都没有接受过正规的时装设计培训，因此赋予了她们在创作方面有极大的自由度。

玲姐的设计过程源于对全新美学理念的不断探索，以及拒绝接受传统作为创作限制。过去，一个系列可能源于一句抽象的短语、一张照片，甚至是一张揉皱的纸片这样意想不到的事物，如今，它可能源于某种情感，或是一次深刻的内省。

玲姐的设计始终挑战着时尚的逻辑：摒弃功能性，突破尺度，并要求采用全新的结构方式。色彩是其核心，挑战传统的材料等级制度也同样重要，她将那些曾经被视为媚俗、廉价或过于女性化的材料提升到另一境界。

西太后则经常从过去汲取灵感，在80年代和90年代，她将古希腊罗马、都铎王朝时期的英格兰、18世纪的法国等不同时代融为一体，精心打造出既颂扬又颠覆传统的叙事、人物、廓形和装饰技法。

她没有任何创作禁忌，为了延续她对既定秩序的长期批判，西太后戏仿了英国的陈词滥调：以贵族和皇室服饰、套装和珍珠、学生条纹、猎装和格子呢去创作出一系列戏谑及嘲讽阶级和墨守成规的系列作品。

 

《The Body身体》

在她们的职业生涯中，西太后和玲姐都重新构想了时尚与身体之间的关系。她们以截然不同却同样激进的方式质疑社会建构，挑战时尚行业的标准，并探索自由与束缚、舒适与物化之间的张力。

对玲姐而言，身体长期以来都是她概念探索的领域，她于 1996 年推出的 “Her Body Meets Dress-Dress Meets Body 身体遇见服装--服装遇见身体” 系列中运用了不规则的填充物来扭曲轮廓去模糊身体与服装之间的界限。

2012 年，她更运用二维裁剪技术打造出完全无视人体轮廓的 “平面” 服装。而她近期的作品系列更演变为 “可穿著的物件”，将设计升华到极致的雕塑作品，摒弃舒适性和功能性，旨在批判社会建构的服装形式和审美观念。

西太后同样地挑战了对性的表达和 “时髦身型” 的固有观念，但她运用的却是反讽和夸张的手法，摒弃了 20 世纪 90 年代早期极简主义的 “Waif 纤弱” 美学，通过填充和压缩打造出极具女性魅力的轮廓，为设计注入了挑衅的意味。

其束身衣和裙撑等古旧内衣外穿，切底地揭露及讽刺女性气质的矫饰，将其转化为一种性自主权的表达方式。

 

《Ceremony of Separation 离别仪式》

玲姐2015年的 “ Ceremony of Separation ”系列表达了 “无论对于即将离去的人还是道别的人，透过仪式的美感和力量如何去减轻离别的痛苦”。

蕾丝、白色、黑色和金色等材质和色调的选择，都蕴含着东西方文化中丰富的意义和内涵。由大型打结的布料制成的作品，模仿了日本的風呂敷包用于携带物品、礼物，或长途跋涉的功能。

时装秀的配乐运用了英国新古典主义作曲家Max Richter的作品，极简的配乐与系列作品的忧郁基调相呼应，玲姐的长期合作伙伴Julien d’Ys设计的薄纱般发型也与之相得益彰。模特们在T台中央面对面站立，然后转半身，继而离开，进一步强化了离别的主题。

 

《The Power of Clothes 服装的力量》

在她们的职业生涯中，西太后和玲姐都曾将时尚作为质疑传统、表达自身价值观或政治关切的工具。

对于西太后而言，这一点从2005年开始尤为突出，她的系列作品和时装秀与她的社会活动密不可分。

她积极投身于人道主义和生态事业，其服装上常常印有标语和图案，重现了她早期庞克时期的宣传鼓动。

玲姐的作品同样充满了自由和革命的理念。尽管她始终不愿解释其系列作品的 “意义”，但近年来她发表的书面声明暗示了作品的主题。

这些声明表明，许多系列都是她对更广泛的全球问题和人类现状的创造性回应。

西太后和玲姐的艺术遗产共同体现了她们的创作勇气、精湛的技艺以及对时尚作为变革力量的坚定信念，持续影响着当代时尚潮流，并激励着人们追求艺术和思想自由。

后记：

不难理解西太后和玲姐的设计至今仍能引起共鸣，两位前卫人的创造力、设计原创性和精湛技艺、勇于思考自身与时尚至更广阔世界之间的关系，并有勇气坚持自己的信念，以不妥协的创造力，做别人不做的设计，为现代的时尚杀出条新血路。在她们之后，时尚界发生了翻天覆地的变化。从此，时尚不再一样（被同化）。

《西太后豪语录》

“I utilized the conventional to make something unorthodox.” – Westwood, 1987

“我运用传统来创造非正统的作品。”- 1987年

 

“Fashion design is almost like mathematics. You have to have a vocabulary of ideas, which you have to add to and subtract from in order to come up with an equation that is right for the times.”

“时装设计几乎就像数学。你必须拥有丰富的概念词汇，不断地增减，才能找到一个符合时代潮流的公式。”

 

《玲姐豪语录》

“The right half of my brain likes tradition and history. The left wants to break the rules.” – Kawakubo, 2005

“我的右脑喜欢传统和历史，左脑则渴望打破常规。”- 川久保玲，2005

“Creation is what takes us forward. Where there is nothing new, there is no progress.” – Kawakubo, 2009

“创造推动我们前进。没有新事物，就没有进步。” - 川久保玲，2009

《完》

A HEREFORD BEEFSTOUW MELBOURNE - A Celebration of Premium Steaks and Rare Fine Wines

Our third visit to A Hereford Beefstouw Melbourne still never disappoint but only getting better and better, thanks to the passionate team behind the scene that continue to strive for the utmost quality of own farm grown meat and locally sourced produce to delight their diners. mylifestylenews writes.

Choosing a restaurant for a good night out can sometimes come into a couple of criteria to consider. From strategic easy access location, alluring and cozy ambience to a wide selection well structured wines, sassy delicious cocktails, enticing menu, not forgetting the prompt and attentive service… and the list goes on to please the demanding diners but sometimes it comes down to a very simple solution especially when you crave for great premium cut of steak and a well curated and affordable wine list and some rare fine wines.

There is nothing like enjoying a good quality steak and some great wines at the same time and A Hereford Beefstouw Melobounre has been around long enough to prove a point that they must be doing something right. Opened since October 2016, this was the second Australian location for this unique steakhouse chain, following the Adelaide venue and the upside to this eponymous restaurant is that art and design is just an inherent concept as what they put on the plates and pour in the glasses and not niggardly sharing their spry passion to their demanding and many returned diners, especially those die-hard meat-lovers, never aim for the best but always better.

Laneways dinning in Melbourne is always one of the popular local dining and cultural scenes as well as those bold and curious well-travelled tourists who wish to explore the unknown or by the words of mouth foodie’s recommendation that always surprising. The location of A Hereford Beefstouw Melobounre is really groovy that is tucked away in one of Melbourne’s inner city laneways - Duckboard Lane or ACDC Lane. Some may find it a little tricky to find but all you have to do is to follow your intuition when you are in the neighbourhood of the graffiti mural wall that would lead you to this arty Nordic inspired chappie “Cattle Club Prime Cellar”.

Welcoming our arrival at A Hereford Beefstouw Melobounre is an arty industrial rustic feel albeit minimalist style front bar. The bar design is minimalist chic with designer track lighting off a black ceiling background, an exposed brick wall on one side, a wrought coat/hat stand that is a talking point and angled long blond wood bar tables and stools that all look toward the main bar that takes up one length of the room.

The bar front design itself is an inward gradated tiered panel outlined in black metal with down lighting which means more leg room for seating. The majority of the back bar display is the wine bottle collection with all the spirits on the bottom shelf. From the outside looking in, the illumination is visually attractive and you will be easily drawn by its luminous vibe.

Naturally, looks aren’t everything, so we decided to start our evening being surprised by the cheeky bartender, Jack, as he was creating some new luscious cocktails to launch their new Happy Hour in a few weeks. So, you could also consider just visiting for cocktails, start with pre-dinner aperitifs and cocktails or a post dinner Scotch for the special hygge moment.

<Highland Velvet>

Drambuie, Amaretto, a touch of lemon, Angus bitters & red wine syrup (Shiraz wine, pomegranate juice, star anise, cinnamon and sugar)

<Emerald Garden>

Midori, gin, St. Germain (Elderflower liqueur), Yuzu liqueur, lemon & sugar syrup

 

These were very chic and sophisticated cocktails that would appeal to everyone, as they are not as strong as you would expect based on the concoctions. They both have a aromatic, fruity, citrusy drive but without being overly sweet and that kick on the back palate certainly left a pleasurable and fondness admiration.

The chic dining room hasn’t changed much yet well maintained with a sleek and neat ambience. The unfussy ethos and sense of comfort with its cozy nooks invite lingering, with classy, understated and uncluttered decor that has a bare backed feel of Nordic chic adorned with striking humorous and witty art work that inspire.

To enjoy some of the best quality Australian beef and other new items on the menu in anticipation, Sebastian, our wait staff of the evening had everything in order and we were well looked after and we started with a glass of refined, cool-climate 2024 Sentio Beechworth Chardonnay from Victoria for its white peach and pear aroma and creamy yet savory finish to go with our three starters.

<Kingfish Crudo - with pickled onions, capers, baby shallots, green chilli, lime balm and parsley & dill oil>

The king fish had a form flesh and mild flavour and was very harmonious with all the flavours coming together to create a freshness on the palate. The lime balm leaf was so fragrant and in combination with the herb oil was the perfect accompaniment. As the fish had been thickly sliced, you had a sense of place.

 

<Kimchi Arancini miso based with mozzarella, lime mayo & gochujang glaze>

A perfect Italian and Korean crossed over! The kimchi surprisingly was not too dominating yet offer a tangy and a pleasant acidic texture on palate over a perfectly deep fried crunchy rice ball for that ultimate crispy shell layer. The touch of the lime mayonnaise created a smooth counterbalance. This is seriously good and we can’t help ourselves but to have a second serving. Enjoy while they are still hot!

<Cured Lamb Shoulder with pea puree and crispy prosciutto>

This cured lamb shoulder offers a soft flavour and texture (it had been cured for 2 days and then served on the third day), contrasting the vivid and tasty green pea puree together with two superb pork prosciutto that was so thinly sliced and almost melted in the mouth. Words failed us and the dish was simply divine!  The pea puree was already a success, but it got us thinking that the kitchen could also use an edamame bean puree, as this could be alternative elevation for a point of difference.

 

<Côte de Bœuf>

In A Hereford Beefstouw, it is all about the beef. This mouthwatering 500g Côte de Bœuf Ribeye on the bone which was dry dry aged for a minimum of 45 days that was cooked to perfection in medium rare (no blood) as per our preference. It was easily sliced through with the Saladini steak made in Italy and packed with flavour and certainly have you quivering with anticipation. Soft texture, smokey flavour and best to enjoy with a glass of cool climate 2022 Soumah Yarra Valley Nebbiolo, the violets and roses aroma, tobacco and tar, rich in berry flavours and firm tannins is a sumptuous wine to enjoy with this dry aged ribeye.If 500g can’t satisfy your craving, the 700g will make you sway!

 

<Beef Ribs>

Sebastian knows ho much we love our meat and took the liberty to bring to the table for another beef delight - The 10 slow cooked grained Beef Ribs. The generous portion of this one gigantic and flavoursome rib rack can easily fit two people that was a little crispy on the outside and soft juicy meat on the inside seemed to play out even better. This was thoughtfully paired with a glass of 2016 Tomassi Amarone Valpolicella Classico that offers the intense nose of black cherries and fruit complexity on the palate which was perfect for the ribs.

SIDES: 

Mash potato, caprese salad, portobello mushrooms, pepper wine sauce, chimichurri, garlic butter.

All the condiments added piquancy in their own way, complimenting the meat and helping to refresh the palate and created a superb rounding out of flavours.

 

<Crème Brulee>

Simple yet sinfully delectable came this classic rendition Crème Brulee that will have you swooning over the light and silky texture, burnt crust and not overly sweet crème anglaise. It doesn’t get much better than this!

<Hereford Special>

This is a dessert tribute to the Owner’s late Mother created in her honour which was a total comfort food and not an overly sweet concoction with vanilla ice cream, candid ginger, drunken raisins, whipped cream and caloric punch that was akin to a trifle with a twist in some ways and quite delicious.

Both desserts were enjoyed with a glass of rare, aged 1995 Talosa Vin Santo Di Montepulciano Toscana which was simply superb with intense amber notes, complex dried fruit, fig, date, walnut, caramel and sweet spice nose. It tasted like a cross between a port and Tokay. What a divine drop this was!

 

A Hereford Beefstouw Melbourne is a casual feel-good premium steak house that never fails to deliver. Service always seems to be on point, delivered in a professional and friendly manner and we were delighted with Sebastian’s product knowledge and warmth approach that made us feel more than welcome.

If you are into some serious wine pick, do not hesitate to ask for recommendation as the huge wine list has some unexpected gems and vineyards you may not be familiar with or have even come across.

From farm to table, A Hereford Beestouw is certainly paying and homage to premium cuts of beef and you are enjoying something that is memorable and will have you craving for more. Simply let loose and come for a celebration of premium steak and rare fine wine in a Scandi home feel environment in Melbourne CBD.

Tried & Tested:
Location: 4.5/5
Design & Decor: 4.5/5
Food & Beverage: 5/5
Service: 5/5
Value For Money: 5/5
Experience: 5/5

Highlights:
In House Dried-Age Meat

Premium Wine Selection

A Hereford Beefstouw Melbourne
22 Duckboard Pl,
Melbourne VIC
Australia
Tel: +61 3 9654 8297

Reviews are based on actual day of visit and experience. mylifestylenews reserves the right of final decision in case of any disputes. All images are photographed by mylifestylenews team without any photoshop enhancement and are the property owned by mylifestylenews unless otherwise stated.

PARK CLUB HEALTH & DAY SPA Park Hyatt Melbourne - A Moment of Tranquility

For a moment of tranquility, be it a soothing and rejuvenating body massage or a thermal facial that makes your skin glow again from inside out, the Park Club Health & Day Spa at The Park Hyatt Melbourne would be an ideal pit-stop to take a step back from your busy schedule and to nourish and illuminate your inner senses. mylifestylenews writes.

When thinking of spa experiences, we often cast our mind back to Asia which perpetually offers a wide range of ancient, traditional spa retreats tucked away in lush tropical settings or natural onsen hot springs and so forth that concomitantly is channeling you to the right kind of senses to reclaim your calm and peace.

Cocooned on the 9^th floor of the hotel, the Park Club Health & Day Spa focuses on the art of healing through restorative body therapies and holistic wellness rituals.

It is also the exclusive home of Omorovicza spa treatments in Australia by bringing the Hungarian thermal water-infused facials and is also popular with their Moor Mud Skin Therapy and Blue Diamond sessions, focusing on anti-aging, hydration, firming, illuminating and detoxification through facial massage techniques.

Other signature treatments can also be found from their crafted spa menu to help you to replenish and rejuvenate with the guide of the experienced therapists.

The waiting area is relatively small and occasionally bustling, so the spa facilities can get busy at times as it is well equipped with sauna, hot tub, steam room and jacuzzi, not to mention the classy, well-maintained 25-meter indoor pool and the state-of-the-art fitness centre that is a sanctuary of peace and vitality.

We had booked in for the Omorovicza Queen Skin Therapy Facial in a couples room which was off the main corridor as you head toward the spa reception area. While it lacked that ‘zen’ fit out and was rather clinical, the ambience was calm and pleasant enough with super comfortable and height adjustable spa beds.

State-of-the-art fitness centre

25-meter indoor pool

The spa soundtrack was quite suitable and set the right mood and the facial began with a gentle dabbing of the face which is to deep cleanse the skin and is done in two cycles before the application of the facial product. Once the cleansing is done, the facial begins with gentle sweeping strokes starting from the bridge of the nose and fanning out to the cheeks and then the forehead and chin in a very relaxing motion. A hot towel is then laid on the upper shoulders and gradually brought up over the face to open up the pores, which is then repeated. By this point it is likely that you have already been lulled into a semi-state of sleep, because we certainly were!

The facial ritual blends highly sensorial textures and scents with nourishing and repairing activities, it is considered the ultimate rescue for sensitive, dry or reactive skin, stimulating cell renewal, as well as lifting and firming the skin, using Queen Oil which nourishes, rebuilds and re-plumps the skin.

The peaceful atmosphere during treatment and gentle strokes created a true spa aura, as we never heard a sound from our therapists or of any interruption until we were gently woken at the end of the facial treatment. The massage techniques of lifting, firming and sculpting, along with the Omorovicza product application resulted in glowing skin that was self-evident. We truly felt like we had youthful-looking skin at the end and a most indulgent relaxation. Sometimes, we need to find the right kind of sense and zen to indulge ourselves and buy us back our very own me time from the bustling schedule to reclaim the calm and peace and you will be in for a treat.

Tried & Tested:

Location: 4.5/5
Design & Decor: 3.5/5

Amenities: 4/5

Service: 4.5/5

Value For Money: 4/5
Experience: 4/5

Park Club Health & Day Spa Park Hyatt Melbourne  

1 Parliament Square,

Off Parliament Place, Melbourne

Victoria, Australia

Tel: +61 3 9224 1234

Reviews are based on actual day of visit and experience. mylifestylenews reserves the right of final decision in case of any disputes. All images are photographed by mylifestylenews team without any photoshop enhancement and are the property owned by mylifestylenews unless otherwise stated.