Precision and strength; reworked traditions of menswear; crisp modernity of sports - these are the main inspirations for men at H&M Studio SS2017 Men Collection. Fluidity is essential, with a looseness and lightness of movement contrasted with the almost second skin sheer knits worn with new silhouette sweatpants. Menswear classics are reborn; elevated sportswear pieces bring clean lines and the power of saturated colour. Embrace the mix and play with differences for a look that's rooted in tradition but looking to the future. "H&M Studio is about contradictions. It's the balance between tailored tradition and sporty modernity; colours and textures, and between masculinity and a new sensitivity," says Andreas Lowenstam, H&M's men's head of design.
The fluidity of a long wool trench coat, its traditional details reworked to create something contemporary, worn with a minimal tank and joggers that are neat and cropped. Modernity comes from a transluscent white nylon anorak with a double layer front pocket piece, it's sheen contrasted with the texture of white seersucker gym shorts. A welcome jolt of colour comes from an voluinous pink nylon bomber, reversible with black on its other side. Keep the colour vivid with pink nylon shorts and a pink mesh T-shirt. The training tops of athletes inspire a sheer rib mock neck, with sporty contrast provided by a rib tank beneath. The cropped white sweatpants continue the casual yet precise mood. A loose fit wool blazer has an extra storm flap to echo the trench. A sheer black cotton top with cross-laced placket continues the fluidity, grounded by slim tailored wool pants.
The astounding Time Machines of Swiss artisan Florian Schlumpf captivate visitors at the MB&F M.A.D.Gallery in Geneva recently. Tick-tock. Tick-tock. The rhythmic swing of the long pendulum paired with the steady tempo of the Time Machine mechanism fills the air with harmonic sounds – a melody orchestrated and invented by artisan Florian Schlumpf. The MB&F M.A.D.Gallery is proud to present an installation of impressive kinetic art pieces designed and developed by Schlumpf, an expert engineer with a passion for art and mechanical precision. “I was always fascinated by machines that generate a rhythm” Florian Schlumpf says. “A rhythm without time does not exist. A simple pendulum is such a machine: it fascinates by its movement, by its gentle sound. The slower the rhythm, the more soothing its impact is on our emotions.” The goal, therefore, is necessarily not to measure time, but to be more mindful and meditative of its passing. Schlumpf uses his art to explore his interest in clocks and precision mechanisms, and perfect function is of the utmost importance to him. He achieves this through the design and development process taking place in his Swiss workshop, which is primarily guided by his intuition. Both an engineer and an artist with degrees in both fields, he has been creating installations exploring time and space since 1980. This curated collection of Time Machines encompasses the ideals of the MB&F M.A.D.Gallery with horological and kinetic aspects sure to stimulate the senses.
The Time Machines collection consists of three compositions celebrating the mechanical precision and sensory pleasure of a traditional clock in a purely artistic manner. Each variation, from the TM2 and TM3 to the Wall Machine, exposes the inner workings of the clock mechanism and places the motion of each gear, spring, and axle in the spotlight. In addition to the skeletonized appearance, the Time Machines are hand-finished in eye-catching colour palettes of black, silver, copper, or gold, which enhance their modern architecture. Whether standing on its own or hanging on a wall, each kinetic sculpture transforms a space both visually and audibly. The statuesque TM2 model, rooted on a disk-shaped floor plate, stands more than two meters tall (6.5 feet), elongated by a steel frame bringing its total weight to an impressive 80 kg. This dominant vertical structure features a timing mechanism consisting of four pairs of gears and an escape wheel measuring an incredible 500 mm in diameter. The meditative swing of the TM2’s pendulum remains in operation for a week without a fresh injection of energy.
The TM3, smaller in size, runs for eight days driven by double spiral springs and axles supported by ball bearings with non-contact seals to reduce friction. This piece also incorporates patent-pending anchor arms built with spring-loaded technology providing smooth, almost silent operation requiring minimal energy. The suspension system transforms the kinetic energy of the movement to the spring so that very little power is wasted. Due to its light aluminium structure, TM3 weighs only 10 kg while measuring 1.3 meters (4.25 feet / model “Kaspar”) or 1.8 meters (6 feet / model “Johann”). It can also be mounted on a wall or display as a standing art piece. The dynamic Wall Machine by Schlumpf creates a dramatic visual into the universe of time by virtue of its size. Measuring approximately 2.1 x 2.2 meters (6.9 x 7.2 feet), the bold, black filigree frame houses black and golden anodized gears contrasting with a mirror-polished golden pendulum disk and hands. A striking component is the large 1.8-meter (5.9 feet) orbital drive. An anchor beam rotating around the central anchor wheel provides constant movement. Although the isochronal sounds of the clock are alluring, the escapement uses spring-like anchor pallets, which produce smooth, virtually silent, transitions.
These models feature hands indicating seconds, minutes, hours, and day of week. Sit back, watch the mesmerizing movement, listen to the sound of the pendulum, and contemplate the passing of time. Each kinetic sculpture provides an opportunity to perceive time by more than just marking the passage of hours, minutes, and seconds. A patient observer can digest unhurried intervals of time by focusing on the sound and motion of the animated clocks. If you dare, opt for the purest expression of this concept with a Time Machine that offers no time indication at all and relax to the endless ticks and tocks of time passing. “I'm convinced that a good design is generated by perfect function. Function gives design,” says Schlumpf. “Design is not an overcoat for a functional body.” An idea becomes a reality through swift and proven process, thanks to a well-appointed workshop and a skilled team located in the quaint Swiss town of Trimmis. To begin, every Time Machine undergoes an experimental trial to test its technical integrity; it needs to be deemed reliable and dependable for an unlimited life expectancy. Schlumpf explains his reasoning for this step, “I have the choice to make calculations over and over, however I personally prefer to use testing, making prototypes that offer quick monitoring of results under real conditions,” explains Schlumpf. “For me, intuition combined with experience is often a better counsellor than the results of a long calculation process.”
The second step is to measure out the area that the kinetic sculpture would occupy, whether large or small, which is often combined with an additional test. The final prototype is then assembled by hand with parts manufactured in-house or purchased through suppliers. After finishing the construction of a first unit, a test run begins; and lasts several weeks to a few months, depending on the complexity of new components. Once the test results meet Schlumpf’s strict standards, the Time Machine is approved and ready for production at the manufacture. Ironically, through the course of development there seems to be only one hurdle for Schlumpf: time.
The House of Yves Saint Laurent reveals the second part of its Summer 2017 campaign by Anthony Vaccarello.
"Behind the Scenes", the film shot last September, positions us a few hours before the show.
The soundtrack by Sebastian serves as background for a daring cast.
The campaign was photographed by Collier Schorr and filmed by Nathalie Canguilhem.
Discover the film and photos on the @ysl Instagram account and on YSL.COM
From 26 to 28 May, A. Lange & Söhne is staging its sixth appearance at the exclusive concourse d’élégance for automotive works of art, ranging from the earliest years of motoring to the concept cars of tomorrow. This year, the motto of this tradition-steeped event is “Around the World in 80 Days – Voyage Through an Era of Records.” As in past years, the winner of the “Best of Show” category will be presented with the unique Como Edition of the LANGE 1 TIME ZONE. During the last weekend in May, the world’s most elegant classic vehicles will be able to be admired in the sprawling grounds of the Villa d’Este on Lake Como. Historic automobiles and motorcycles, as well as concept vehicles that provide a visionary glimpse into the future, will vie for the votes of the jury and the public in five categories. In partnership with the Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este, A. Lange & Söhne has been sponsoring the three-day classic weekend since 2012. This year, the Saxon manufactory is again donating the coveted prize for the competition’s most charismatic automobile. At the award ceremony on 28 May, Lange CEO Wilhelm Schmid will present a customised.
LANGE 1 TIME ZONE “Como Edition” to the winner in the prestigious “Best of Show” category. The hand-engraved caseback of this white-gold special edition depicts the Concorso’s coat of arms. On its city ring, Central European Time is represented by Como. The motto of this year’s Concorso d’Eleganza forges a number of links to the heritage of the competition and to A. Lange & Söhne. The Grand Hotel Villa d’Este opened its doors in 1873 and, in Glashütte, the Lange family domain was built to serve as a residence and manufactory. Jules Verne’s adventure novel Around the World in 80 Days was published in the same year.
Its topics portrayed in the book, the circumnavigation of the globe combined with a race against time, precipitated enormous progress in human mobility as well as new demands in time measurement. In 1883, a year before the International Meridian Conference in Washington D.C. subdivided the world into 24 one-hour time zones, A. Lange & Söhne was already crafting pocket watches capable of displaying different times, either with two pairs of hands or a second dial on the movement side. They are regarded as historic precursors of the LANGE 1 TIME ZONE, which has a second time indication that can be quickly and conveniently set to any of the 24 time zones with a pusher and a city ring.
TOPSHOP embraces a change of direction and casts undiscovered British model, Lily Jean as their new face for its SS2017 advertising campaign. Kate Phelan, TOPSHOP Creative Director, says, “Finding an unknown girl to call our own is so exciting. Lily Jean has star quality; she’s a real, natural beauty and a completely new face for a new season of fashion.” Through a series of images and short videos shot in LA and London, Lily Jean models the Spring Summer collection across California’s carefree beaches and on Britain’s urbane streets.
Lily Jean is :
Newark, a market town about 20 minutes from the UK’s city of Nottingham
Scouted whilst on a swing outside King’s Cross
FIRST CATWALK SHOW:
TOPSHOP UNIQUE September 2016 show
FIRST TOPSHOP PURCHASE:
A Petite jersey dress with red, white, and blue stripes
FAVOURITE THING ABOUT TOPSHOP:
The diversity - there’s something that fits every kind of girl
Drake and The Weeknd
Japan during the cherry blossom season
FAVOURITE MOBILE APP:
Jeans, t-shirt, and trainers
The New Chloé 2017 Eyewear Collection
The new Chloé eyewear collection represents sheer elegance, grace and femininity, which can be seen in the vintage shapes and retro styles with ‘70s appeal. Sophisticated colorations enhance elegant silhouettes with a contemporary edge.
The iconic Myrte model is reborn and re-designed to express the refined airiness and lightness of Chloé. Chic metal details accentuate the frame front and complete the look of the temples. Available in Dark Grey, Dark Brown, Turtledove, Peach and Caramel.
A mixture of materials and colors seamlessly blend together to create an elegant look with fluid movement. Available in Gradient Black, Gradient Grey/Turtledove, Gradient Burnt and Gradient Turtledove.
Marlow is an eclectic mix of glam rock influences fused with the brand’s iconic femininity. Sophisticated colorations enhance the elegant silhouette. Available in Black, Tortoise, Ruby and Blonde Havana.
A classic frame front is enhanced by sophisticated gold metal temples that feature chic rectangular openings. Available in Dark Grey, Havana, Light Brown and Light Turtledove.
A thick, rounded profile is accented by a quartet of studs that pop against the sophisticated color palette. Available in Smoke, Havana, Camel and Rose.
Leonard Handbag SS2017 Collections create a fresh yet exotic universe, introduce sensitivity in the everyday palette. The patterns, both organic and geometrical, borrow from “Art Nouveau”, recorded precisely the proportioned views of natural scenery, with the lingering charms of ancient landscapes and idyllic poems. Eastern flowers like the peach blossom, water lily bloom vividly on leather, colorful, fresh and evanescent, telling stories of the oriental Neverland. When Leonard presents a collection, everything about it exudes novelty and creativity. The indissociable Lyons-style printing techniques, the hand printed floral patterns, and more importantly creation based around the tradition state the constant quest for the beautiful, and has turned into a real work of art for the new Leonard handbag collections.
BLEU KLEIN Handbag Collection
Inspired by the world’s purest color, Klein Blue, the handbag collection brings us to the full bloom of spring. Wildflowers are all at their peak, sending forth pleasant aromas, stretching petals lazily and enchantingly. The precious moment freezes as SANTAL floral print of the handbag collection. Klein Blue is mixed with dark blue and Tyrian pink tones, matched with the brief and essential handbag silhouettes, to reach at a perfect balance of minimalism and sophistication.
NUIT & PALMES Handbag Collection
Nuit & Palmes handbag collection are as peacefully elegant as a moonlit night on the beach. The silently blooming lilies and bamboo leaf that stands for nobleman are subtly swaying in wind from the floral print. Ashy tones has let out the romance essence of the Parisian brand. The arabesques, rhythms and colors, delicately layered, seem to come straight out from the dark leather body. A poetic and graphic touch for holiday looks.
MORROCO ZELLIGE Handbag Collection
With her architectural, fluid designs that compile both flexibility and style, Leonard designer Christine Phung reinterpreted the historied patterns from Morocco Zellige tiles. The auspicious clouds mingles with Arabian ornaments, freely travelling between the east and the west. Graphic curves intertwine with geometrical lines and shapes, which deconstruct the pattern with a modern finish. Essential and brief, the handbag collection brings the sense of exotic and artistic into the daily wardrobe, aiming to create an inspiring image of an elegant adventurer of style.
Rodial X-treme Range Glycolic Daily Serum using probiotic technology to unveil & refresh your natural radiance. X-treme is all about resurfacing, retexturing and renewing skin with a complex and powerful combination of acids and enzymes. By refining your skin, X-treme helps exfoliate to eliminate dead and strongly pigmented cells whilst encourage cell renewal: As a result, refine skin appearance with even skin tone and boost radiance. Skin is also protected and strengthened. The silicone-free formula of this multi-use serum primes the complexion to perfection with a smooth finish whilst refining the appearance of pores. The serum decreases the intensity of uneven skin tones, whilst reducing the look of lines and wrinkles. Helping the skin to appear even, clear and radiant. The skin is immediately hydrated and brighter whilst skin tone and texture is improved.
2017 will mark the first time in 178 years that the renowned British event, Henley Royal Regatta, will partner with a small number of luxury brands and Bremont will be the first Official Timekeeper in the Regatta’s established history. The event attracts thousands of visitors over five days and spectators will enjoy over 200 races of an international standard, including Olympians and crews new to the event. Each of the brand partners were chosen due to their British heritage and synergies with Henley Royal Regatta’s values and ethos, helping to develop the event and increase its standing as one of the most iconic dates in the British sporting summer calendar. Bremont will be joined by Hackett London and Aston Martin as the other official event partners. The event will take place from 28th June to 2nd July 2017 where Bremont will have a pop-up boutique on site, situated outside the bandstand entrance to the Stewards’ Enclosure and showcasing the whole Bremont range.
Sir Steve Redgrave, Chairman of the Regatta’s Committee of Management: “I have known both Nick and Giles for a number of years now, and have followed their success story closely. Being a leading luxury watch brand, and located in Henley-on-Thames, it is fantastic to have them on board as Official Timekeepers for Henley Royal Regatta. We have been working closely on the event clocks and hand-held mechanical stopwatches for the race umpires which we are very excited about.” Henley Royal Regatta was first held on the River Thames in 1839 and has been annual ever since. Originally staged by the Mayor and people of Henley as a public attraction with a fair and other amusements, the emphasis rapidly changed so that competitive amateur rowing became its main purpose. Today it has an unparalleled tradition and place in the hearts of top rowers around the world.
Giles English, Co-Founder of Bremont: “Henley Royal Regatta was founded even before the America’s Cup in 1839, and with our heritage in mind, it is lovely to be part of another historical British event. Remarkably Henley Royal Regatta is one of the few sporting events that is still timed mechanically rather than digitally which is very in-keeping with what Bremont is all about. As such we will be building a custom hand held chronograph for the umpires. Bremont makes beautifully engineered mechanical timepieces designed to be tested to extremes so the event is also a great fit with the Regatta course being notorious for pushing its athletes to their absolute limits.” Nick English, Co-Founder of Bremont: “As a British luxury watch brand, Bremont is passionate about reinvigorating this once booming British industry. In the past 15 years we have made considerable strides in this direction as we endeavour to strengthen Henley-on-Thames as the home of British watchmaking. Henley, set in one of the most beautiful parts of the British countryside, has always been internationally renowned for being the global home of rowing. With our manufacturing base being meters from the River Thames, the tie-up as timing partner for Henley Royal Regatta has a lovely synergy. Given the event has never had brand partners in its entire history, dating back to 1839, it’s a real honour to have been asked to get involved.”
Maria Grazia Chiuri is the first woman to hold the creative reins at Dior. Her boldly feminine outlook - feminist is a recurring word for her - explores the rules of modern beauty to transpose them into a collection shaped by the sensual tension that exists between the body and clothing.
Christian Dior’s New Look challenged notions of dress with modernity and rigor,giving back to women the curves and refinement that the war had erased; with fashion that was revolutionary for the time.
Maria Grazia Chiuri takes on the tradition of the house of Dior, placing the woman front and center, confounding expectations and questioning that which is taken for granted. She explores the form and shape of a silhouette that's contemporary, agile and Olympian; exhibiting an elite sporting elegance, while remaining within each woman’s reach.
For a uniform this is both a unique and serial element. It is a place where the body’s individuality is prized, and where it can also find common ground with others. The parts of this uniform, such as masks, jackets and lace, are fundamental elements whose lines highlight the constructive clarity of the project undertaken by Maria Grazia Chiuri, espousing the house’s founding spark ignited by Christian Dior to open-mindedly enter into an extraordinary story punctuated by a diversity of talents, appropriating (as in the work Post production by Nicolas Bourriaud) each useful item in order to create a new lexicon unfettered by any fashion preconceptions.
Fascinated by the house’s intimate and artisanal aspect, she has experimented with different materials in novel constructions and combinations. Through decontextualized forms injected with movement, she invents a dialogue between signs and gestures: the unoppressive corset that with lightness and lightly-worn irony expresses the desire to look and to appeal; the liberated glimpse of a technical and graphic undergarment that caresses the bust’s curves, its elastic adorned with brand-referencing puns, turning it into a kind of gothic and retro rap to the beat of “j'adior”.
Ready-to-wear that embraces streetwear influences and techno materials, as well as that magical, dreamy, almost divinatory dimension, so dear to the founder of the house and expressed by Maria Grazia Chiuri in that notable phrase: “Learn to follow your own dreams.”
Sumptuous zodiac sign embroideries cover fabrics to the extent that they appear like paintings. A wealth of tarot figures cleverly transposed into different milieux suggest interpretations of the future.
Materials include cotton, which come in blue, white and black. And Christian Dior’s beloved red, in addition to gray and pink.
Denim acts as a connective element. Tulle, silk chiffon and georgette are cut into maxi skirts whose varying lengths reflect a woman’s varying desires. But it is the beating heart embroidered on the chest, as in the first fencing outfits, that express better than a thousand words ever could, the intensity and strength of emotions possessed by the women of today.
“Fashion that corresponds to their changing needs, freed from the stereotypical categories of "masculine/feminine", "young/not so young", "reason/emotion", which nonetheless also happen to be complementary aspects.
Fencing is a discipline in which the balance between thought and action, the harmony between mind and heart are essential. The uniform of the female fencer is, with the exception of some special protections, the same as for a male fencer.
The female body adapts itself to an outfit which, in turn, seems to have been shaped to its curves.” Says Maria Grazia Chiuri, Artistic Director of the Dior haute couture, women’s ready-to-wear and accessories collections.