JW Anderson's men Summer 2021 show in a box collection created with available resources in rather extreme conditions are a playful celebration of what being restricted can mean and spawn in creative terms.
The divide between wardrobes is intentionally blurry, but still present. What in menswear takes a slouchy feel in womenswear gets a classic sense of poise and elegance.
Presented on fictional characters - enlarged young male personalities - the collection juxtaposes notions of pragmatism and playfulness within a context of cozy domesticity.
Volumes are round and enveloping, or elongated and sleepy, with blown-up details that keep their function in off-kilter scale, and unexpected touches providing jolly, frivolous diversions.
Dresses, capes, pillow sweaters, cropped trousers, elongated jumpers and loafer mules reiterate and recon-textualize tropes of the brand’s DNA.
Patchworked jockey coats sprout patch pockets as roomy as bags. Sleeves get excessively long, trailing to the floor.
Military capes spawn an excess of buttons. Long knits have an home-spun immediacy and a cozy intimacy. Slits create movement on tailored pieces. Pompoms draw the giddy contours of a plain sleeveless jumper.
Faded denim is tailored into a patchwork coat. Blanket stitching underlines the addition and accumulation of elements.
Texture, either real or suggested by way of print on fabric as well as knit, adds another layer to the story: brocade impressions, tapestry motifs, targets, stripes, flowers, Pol Anglada’s blown-up faces. A sentiment of youthful, freewheeling amusement composedly comes to the fore.