KENZO AW2018 Women's & Men's Collection
"Working on collections for KENZO over the years, we find ourselves permanently provoked to picture life through the prism of culture, people and happenings. One of the most influential inspirations for us is cinema. The plethora of characters and personalities that can be evoked, portrayed and ultimately retained in our psyche is fascinating to us.
For AW2018 we present a collection celebrating the various on-screen strong women and men who have engrossed or enthralled us with their style and spirit. For women’s we meander through the traditional and the technical, exposing a collection brimming with dusty colors and vibrant prints.
Silk satin cherry blossom jacquard dresses are worn alongside modernized twinsets in transparent nylon knits. Pencil skirts in silk are over-the-knee with front slits. Rich micro-pleated velvet dresses and skirts in an archival floral print come ruched. Tweed cargo pants, oversized pea coats and bustier dresses are matched with washed cotton canvas “movie poster” tee shirts, dresses and culottes. Dresses in “coat lining” inspired silk fabrics pair with wool bouclé coats in lilac or camel.
The men’s collection fuses the heritage and modern by twisting classics and clashing prints and colors. A boxy silhouette pervades and skinny pants run the gamut of fabrics. Waxed cotton trenches appear in traditional colors and a pop turquoise.
Reflective flock print fabrics are used on technical nylon vests or trousers. Zip-up nylon blousons with floral jacquards partner with heavy wool molleton double faced duffels. Typical bomber jackets are lengthened and leather pieces appear in the shape of beaten up cardigans. Iridescent tailoring bursts through an already vivid color
Accessories for women are spun from the same wheel as their ready-to-wear counterparts. Classic “frame” evening bags come in two sizes and feature fabrics in dust colored silk jacquards or transparent floral beading. Men’s bags take shape through cross body metallic souvenir pouches or bonded box bags in a deep blues or reds. Mini- flasks, lighter holders, cigarette cases and ear-bud cases hang from the waist.
Both men’s and women’s shoes share asymmetric soles with men’s appearing as brushed spazzolato or python boots and mocassins. For women’s, a more elegant allure stems from mary-jane, sling-back or stiletto boots recalling the collection’s fabrics of transparent nylon or silk jacquard."
Carol Lim & Humberto Leon