Blow, blow thou winter wind… But there is no question of its bite being keen. Oh, no. Agnès b. has expressly forbidden it. She has even gone one better: for her 2018-2019 collection, she has found a gentle haven for it, so that it can inspire the necessary little frisson. What better for her silhouettes than to parade before the eyes of the slenderest Parisian women?
With particular attention to the work of Laure-Hélène Vaudier: six light silhouettes for blue flowers with blue collar. This designer, who hails from Saint-Étienne, plays upon first impressions: romantic, yes, but also practical.
If the socks are flowered, if the voile dances, the blouson is there to bring us down to earth and remind us that we can still yomp around. Agnès likes us to be able to move in the things we wear. Isn’t it better to live without making compromises?
And it’s precisely through her determined embrace of street fashion that Agnès reaffirms her love of artists. This winter it will be Seine Zoo Records or nothing; will be Nekfeu or nothing – a collaboration where the rapper’s label and sense of style blend wonderfully with the designs and personality of Agnès b.
It’s a felicitous match, featuring soft materials and lines as striking as the models. Gentleness is the only temperature gauge. And to provide a cocoon, you pull up a hood, or wear a cap. We’re nothing if not adventurous when it comes to keeping our ears warm. And, of course, we sport the snap fastening. Of course we can choose to button it or not. Of course we are adamant about who we want to be. And of course, we are free.
The palette will resemble the sky that skims the Eiffel Tower. It may be grey, ochre, white, pink, blue, deep, or watercolour. But, above all, it will be shimmering. Each design is able to reflect a new light. On some, there is almost a mirror effect, while on others you are caught up in a new sunset. If the coat is monochrome, then you have to watch what you pair with it. Tartan trousers, patterned suits and printed skirts.
Agnès’s passion for photography offers a veritable gallery of long skirts as light as gossamer: here, a window opens onto the world outside, there, we see a snowy garden. They ready to slip on high-heeled ankle-boots to make the snow sing to jump into it with both feet and still remain elegant. It’s the chic of spontaneity.
Agnès’s eye offers a palette of possibilities for the Parisian woman: a snowflake with myriad reflections.
In a superb suit and a shirt with a sharp white collar, as a lady with elbows delicately covered by long gloves, in a tail coat over a lamé skirt, with full shoulders, or bare shoulders, or wearing a skirt with pockets. The silhouette always remains ultra-feminine: the waist is emphasised, an arm is bared, or a scarf is left to float in the wind.
Agnès has presented more than one collection, but in her winter garden the tenderest snowflakes have just come to rest.