There is no better way to dine in a restaurant than when the chef is passionate about his own creations and yet not losing the flavor of the local essence, nor letting go of his heritage roots by bringing the freshest produce onto your table. Not only visually stunning on the presentation but also for you to admire before digging in with joy and bite after bite feeling the heart put into the carefully crafted menu by the chef. This is what Suay Restaurant delivers. Mylifestylenews discovers.
A former corporate chef from a renown international luxury hotel gave up his routine daily workload to fulfill his little dream by opening a contemporary Avant-Thai restaurant with a modern surprise add-on to his traditional Thai’s recipe in a small town at Mueang Phuket district. Chef Tammasak Chootong aka Chef Noi caters for those in search for a supreme palate with a notable Thai twist besides running a cooking academy at the nearby Cherngtalay during the day.
A white tin roof adds a pure touch of Suay Restaurant juxtaposing the off-white wooden dining chairs and table. Facing the busy main street in Talat Nuea, Phuket town, Suay Restaurant is an oasis when you step into its intended well-designed secret garden, where a lush green surrounds the entire compound with lazy bamboo lounge chairs to laze around before or after the dinner.
The interior inside Suay Restaurant is simple yet elegant, with a long wall-fitted cushioned lounge sofa stretched to the bar area to brighten up the vibrant hue of the tropical flora & fauna printed plush cushions. We were warmly greeted by Chef’s Noi wife and sat us inside a cozy corner on in a warm “summer” evening.
Food is the highlight in this home-like unpretentious restaurant and surprises await as we were recommended by the connoisseur from the hospitality industry with great anticipation. Opening daily only for dinner, Chef Noi knows how to tackle your taste buds when it comes to his menu creation despite the main classic Thai dishes that can be found, Suay restaurant serves up something that is not too straight forward yet with something to awaken your palate. Chef Noi has also put some of his signature dishes together on a set menu for you to share with your company.
The first dish well worth a big round applause, the Crispy Papaya & Mangosteen Salad With Grilled River Prawns where the deep fried thin sliced papaya was so crumbly with the crackling sound to make every bite we had. You won’t even know it was actually deep fried papaya if not told and is well combined with the juicy mangosteen to balance the lightly charcoal-burnt river prawns. Such an ingenious creation easily lingers in your mouth with an after taste to remember, a great start with Chef Noi’s culinary quest.
The Laab Fresh Tuna Tartare Thai Style with miso lime is a classic combination of Japanese married with Thai expressed in an imaginative menu of local, foraged, seasonal ingredients, tastefully garnished with petit local flowers.
The Lobster Bisque Tom Yum with Prawn Dumpling came next. Rich texture of flavorsome Tom Yum taste with a premium classic ‘ravioli’ style prawn dumpling shows the other side of Chef Noi’s western influence. Speaking of flavor, this dish has a pleasant, mouth watering spice full of treasures and surprises inside the sunken prawn dumpling.
Curry dish is a must order when it comes to Thai dinner with friends. The Braised Beef Cheek In Massaman Curry, Coconut Gnocchi & Edamame Bean Salsa is rich and full of complexity with each of the ingredients combined. A bold and ambitious dish of Chef Noi’s creation to do things others won’t.
Another signature dish is the Grilled River Prawns with Lemon Grass Salad. Fresh river prawns are used and the better the head, the better it gives you the juicy roe and the succulent texture of the meat married well with the zingy and aromatic fine cut lemongrass. Love it!
You may be put off by the fresh seaweed if you are not used to its fishy whiff that garnish the Charcoal Grilled Black Cod Fillet with Seaweed Salad & Coriander Butter. The Cod fillet was beautifully cooked with light grilled on the side and the coriander blanc beurre is such a delightful combination that tops the dish with enjoyment.
East-meet-West Braised Beef Cheek with Coconut Gnocchi, Edamame Bean Salsa & Cashew Nuts Crumble is another triumphant creation from Chef Noi. Fresh ingredients are used to combine this classic Continental dish with a Thai touch of aromatic shredded and roast coconut together with the cashew nut crumble elevated this dish to another level.
We weren’t put off by the Crepe Suzette despite having further anticipation with the ingredients used. Classic French enhancement and yet not disappointing.
We concluded with a sizable portion of Mango Sticky Rice Spring Roll with Black Sesame Ice Cream where the sticky rice was wrapped and deep fried to get its crisp served aside with the home-made powdery texture of aromatic black Sesame Ice Cream for a feast crafted by Chef Noi to delight our senses and a culture’s heart through the stomach.
Condiments & fresh accompaniments matter as much as the main ingredient and Chef Noi knows it well to bring all good things together and he is truly a “Hidden Tiger, Crouching Dragon” – a Chinese proverb that describes someone who has a great talent and yet not to flaunt it until when it is discovered. A 9-course culinary adventure & a good laugh with great company set our Phuket trip on the right track.
Tried & Tested:
Design & Decor: 4/5
Food & Beverage: 4.5/5
Value For Money: 4.5/5
Talat Nuea, Mueang Phuket District
Tel: +66 87 888 6990
Reviews are based on actual day of visit and experience. mylifestylenews reserves the right of final decision in case of any disputes. All images are photographed by mylifestylenews team without any photoshop enhancement and are the property owned by mylifestylenews unless otherwise stated.
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