M Missonni SS2017 Collection

 Glitter glam, a super feminine and totally today appeal with a free upbeat spirit sweeping in influence from graphism to modern art to hippy-folk mood. M Missoni’s glitter glam for SS2017 makes a dazzling statement thanks to the major presence of lurex and to extra shots of color, color, color.

What comes through in knit and woven fabrics alike is a studied feel for freedom along with a cool subversive flair. Ditto for the fluid, flowing shapes which nonetheless capture a sartorial allure in the geometric or more body-conscious cuts vertically, horizontally and obliquely marking the clothes. The end result is striking asymmetric, cut-out, trumpet and one-shoulder effects. For an unfinished look there are raw edges on sleeveless blouse and dress, boxy caban jacket, plus classy coat with distinctive buttoning and contrast topstitching.

As to lengths, widths and constructions, a precise code quietly sets the tone. nothing above the knee, nothing below ankles. loose high-rise pants. V neck knit shirt-jackets with empire waist, a gypsy chic put-together charm. Practically omnipresent, plissé pleats give definition to airy knits, ombré rainbow mode, glossier than ever thanks to a must-have lurex factor. Freedom is also synonymous with sense of motion, there in the type of cut yet maybe in the detailing most of all: fringe, drawstrings, lacings, narrow ribbons crisscrossing open-back dresses, wider ribbons completing shirts semi mannish style in front. Completing the picture here are ruffles, ruche edging on dresses and even on baggy shorts, gathering along halter necklines and at shoulder straps.

Flanking the knits is a wide selection of woven fabrics that are invariably light: silk crepe, hammered satin, organzine, poplin, viscose, compact jersey, thick-weave cotton. Knit fabrics find ever new expression: for example, now in some cases zigzags go optical, almost illusory, identifiable in the patterns of stitches. Equally impressive is the array of decors emulating embroidery, ajour lace, passamenterie, fine cord, hand crochet.  Relief elements feature the same graphic motifs as prints. other touches include openwork, partialization, sheer/opaque interplays often with make-a-difference lurex heightening the impact in various ways (from mere hint to lacy texture to glorious sheen).

Jacquards are absolutely stunning, for they simulate the effect of waves breaking up into drops, all in technicolor with lurex creating a watery shimmer. The soul of the m missoni universe is very much a matter of color, more than ever in this collection where soft and bright hues co-exist beautifully. As in: blush, powder pink and pearl gray in mix with orange, fuchsia, pale yellow and sunflower yellow. And then beige, ice white, sandy beige, orchid pink, burnt umber, aqua green… monochrome or motley style in the fancy knits, as well as in the prints and fabrics with a fresh graphic slant. Meanwhile white and black are as eternal as ever, but unlike usual they stand apart from the rest of the colors and assume the role of a protagonist.