BALENCIAGA FW2016 Men Collection lie in utility, in functionality, in everyday workwear, but elevated by the precision of Balenciaga's craftsmanship. That past informs the present and inspires the future. It is a wardrobe founded in reality, bearing the imprint of couture history. Created under the direction of the house's design team, Balenciage's fall 2016 meanswear collection proposes a working wardrobe, fusing Balenciaga's heritage with the context of now.
Initially inspired by the grading clothers created by Cristobal Balenciaga for his loyal client Mona von Bismarck, the collection abstract its theme, re-purposing it for today. The prevalent mood is of practicality, purpose and the use of clothing in real life. aprons are cut in leather, suede and suiting wools to match clothes beneath. Other garments draw on the traditional staples of meanswear; army clothes or uniforms, sportswear, suiting - yet a thread, of construction, or of attitude, always pulls them back to the ateliers, and the history of the house.
In the spirit of Cristobal Balenciaga, seams are minimal, banished from trousers and shoulders to create a streamlined silhouette that appears moulded. High-placed yokes kimono sleeves, archetypal; details drawn from Balenciaga's mid-century tailoring, are transposed onto utilitarian garments in quilted cotton and nylon, given a new weightless structure and cocooning volume. A mackintosh or peacoat, classic meanswear items, are exaggerated to ankle-length; from behind, their outlines resemble a refined couture evening gown.
Fabrics are varied. Firm mesh neoprene and knits give added volume; leather, suede and jewel-colored velvet reference the conventional vernacular or luxury, the world of haute couture. They are joined by everyday fabrics-nylon, cotton drill and wool, in a military palette of black, grey and khaki. Fine silk-cotton jersey, used for sweaters and track pants, recall men's athletic clothes or long underwear from the 1930s.
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